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APE Heavy Duty Clutch Hub Nut

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    APE Heavy Duty Clutch Hub Nut

    I've got one on the way, along with my rebuilt Gorilla clutch basket, new clutch springs, and new clutch frictions. I destroyed the wire that holds in the last steel plate in the clutch pack, and I was wondering if I should order a new locking washer for the hub nut at the same time I order that retaining wire? Or will Loctite + HD Hub Nut suffice?

    #2
    I'd definetly get a new lock washer.
    Ed

    To measure is to know.

    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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      #3
      a folding washer is a must with helical gears.
      hell 1150's started using a concave washer behind the folding washer to help the loosening hub nut problem even more.
      straight cut is a different story as there is no side load to loosin the hub nut.

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        #4
        The retaining wire that holds the last steel plate in goes in the trash! Ray.

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          #5
          Originally posted by rapidray View Post
          The retaining wire that holds the last steel plate in goes in the trash! Ray.
          Is it completely unnecessary? Or do you need a new one each time. I've got a new one on the way, regardless..

          Comment


            #6
            You'll have to make sure the wave washer is centered in the other washer. (the one that gives the clutch pack some tension)
            I put one together once w/out the piano wire and it wasn't centered and I had to take it back apart.
            1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
            1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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              #7
              Don't put the wire back in unless you are just bored & have nothing better to do. I have NEVER replaced one & have had no problems. Even when I was a Suzuki dealer mechanic we never put them back. Just pay attention when you are reinstalling the clutch plates & it will be fine. If you are worried, put a small amount of grease on the wave washer to hold it in place while you reassemble. Ray.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by rapidray View Post
                Don't put the wire back in unless you are just bored & have nothing better to do. I have NEVER replaced one & have had no problems. Even when I was a Suzuki dealer mechanic we never put them back. Just pay attention when you are reinstalling the clutch plates & it will be fine. If you are worried, put a small amount of grease on the wave washer to hold it in place while you reassemble. Ray.
                That's what I did!
                1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Sounds good. Still have a week or so until I get my clutch hub back, getting all my knowledge together, and prepping the bike for reassembly. After having most of the bike apart over the past two months or so, I'm not nearly as intimidated by all these little parts and gears and what-have you. Now, I'd better run out while I still can and pick up a pair of snap ring pliers so I can swap out these oil pump gears for 750 pieces.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    What about using thread locker on the nut in addition to the folding tab washer?

                    PS: bought some 1150 nuts because they are cheaper than the APE jobbies and are reputed to be stronger (according to Terry (blowerbike)) than the regular GS hub nuts.
                    Ed

                    To measure is to know.

                    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by Nessism View Post
                      What about using thread locker on the nut in addition to the folding tab washer?

                      PS: bought some 1150 nuts because they are cheaper than the APE jobbies and are reputed to be stronger (according to Terry (blowerbike)) than the regular GS hub nuts.
                      Yeah, I get a little crazy with the red Loctite, myself. I'm really paranoid about things backing off, for no particular reason. I suppose it's just because I hate doing a job twice. Now, I have to find the resolve to get done with scraping the old petrified gaskets off the engine. Stator cover down, oil pan and clutch cover to go. These gasket remnants are nearly as stiff as the engine case.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by Turtleface View Post
                        Yeah, I get a little crazy with the red Loctite, myself. I'm really paranoid about things backing off, for no particular reason. I suppose it's just because I hate doing a job twice. Now, I have to find the resolve to get done with scraping the old petrified gaskets off the engine. Stator cover down, oil pan and clutch cover to go. These gasket remnants are nearly as stiff as the engine case.
                        Dabbing on a little paint remover works to help soften the old gaskets. It's still a chore, but a little less so with some chemical assistance.
                        Ed

                        To measure is to know.

                        Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                        Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                        Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                        KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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