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83gs750e dies at 3500rpm every gear

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    83gs750e dies at 3500rpm every gear

    I'm working on my friends bike and wanted to pick your brains. His bike will bog down and die at 3500 rpm in every gear except nuetral. It also works fine of you pull in the clutch. Could he have some problem with his clutch or what?

    #2
    Either the igniter is bad or the slides are stuck.
    No mechanical advance, right?
    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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      #3
      Sorry I don't exactly know what you mean by mechanical advance. And, in regards to the igniters; I don't quite follow where that would be the issue if I have perfctbignition all the way to redline when the bike isn't in gear.

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        #4
        Have the carbs been cleaned? Sounds like dirty needle jets, also called emulsion tubes by some folks.

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          #5
          Yea the first thing we tried was completly taking the carbs off and cleaning all the jets and such. It didn't seem to help at all.

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            #6
            Originally posted by rABIDwOLF View Post
            Yea the first thing we tried was completly taking the carbs off and cleaning all the jets and such. It didn't seem to help at all.
            It could be the ignitor as already mentioned, that's right where the electronic advance kicks in. Just because it will rev to redline in neutral doesn't mean the advance is working.

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              #7
              Okay that makes sense. How would one go about testing that theory?

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                #8
                Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
                Either the igniter is bad or the slides are stuck.
                No mechanical advance, right?
                You're correct Bill, the 83 and up 700 750 1150 had electronic advance.. I think they might have used electronic advance on some of the big G models around then too, i remember my timing plate on my 82 1100G looked really different from the mechanical ones im used to seeing..and Im kind of thinking they're both probably right about the advance.. ALL FOUR slides would have to be sticking to stall the bike out.. possible, but highly unlikely. And ALL FOUR emulsion tubes would have to be clogged. I suppose its possible that his needles are just that far out of "in tune" that it could kill it, but you'd think it would break up really badly on the transition first.. And 3500 RPM is JUST at the pilot needle transition anyway.. It has to be the ignitor..

                Wolf.. I dunno if you can test the ignitor in your bike the way the mechanical advance bikes can be, but if so its pretty easy..but Im not sure if it will prove your advance is or isnt working...
                Last edited by Guest; 04-03-2010, 10:03 PM.

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by rABIDwOLF View Post
                  Okay that makes sense. How would one go about testing that theory?
                  Good old fashioned timing light. Watch for the advance on the right end of the crank.

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by Billy Ricks View Post
                    Good old fashioned timing light. Watch for the advance on the right end of the crank.
                    ok I've done timing on other bikes (honda night hawk) but they looked WAY different.
                    I cant seem to find any section in the service manual that reference how to do the timing on this bike. Any help?

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                      #11
                      Is the airbox on the bike?
                      Ed

                      To measure is to know.

                      Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                      Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                      Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                      KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by Nessism View Post
                        Is the airbox on the bike?
                        No.
                        The bike used to work fine, then towards the end of last it year started doing this out of the blue.

                        We figured the carbs were just dirty so we pulled them apart and cleaned them and fixed a small issue with the petcock.

                        Unfortunately none of that made any difference at all.

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by TheCafeKid View Post
                          Wolf.. I dunno if you can test the ignitor in your bike the way the mechanical advance bikes can be, but if so its pretty easy..but Im not sure if it will prove your advance is or isnt working...
                          Yeah my old bike was mechanical and was easy to time and figure out...this...well lets just say its foreign to me

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                            #14
                            Originally posted by rABIDwOLF View Post
                            No.
                            The bike used to work fine, then towards the end of last it year started doing this out of the blue.

                            We figured the carbs were just dirty so we pulled them apart and cleaned them and fixed a small issue with the petcock.

                            Unfortunately none of that made any difference at all.
                            What issue with the petcock? And what happened to your airbox? You have pods now? Jet kit? Did you replace the petcock? its possible your fix didnt really fix it, and now you're starving the carbs.. that's probably right about where you'd notice it too... Just bouncing other, simpler to fix possibilities out there..

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                              #15
                              You should be able to see the advance kick in with a timing light. There's no gradual curve, above 3,500 rpm you'll see the timing jump as you give it gas.

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