83gs750e dies at 3500rpm every gear

[rABIDwOLF]

And you're ABSOLUTELY SURE you put the carbs back together EXACTLY the way they came apart. I am not trying to insult your intelligence, just making sure. One small mistake like the needle clip being in the wrong slot could cause a major difference like this..

yup labeled them and kept everything in separate containers and the whole nine yards...I made that mistake the very first time I ever took carbs apart on another bike and well....lets just say I wasted alot of time getting them back together again ever since then I'm a little over kill on documenting how things come apart

[TheCafeKid]

yup labeled them and kept everything in separate containers and the whole nine yards...I made that mistake the very first time I ever took carbs apart on another bike and well....lets just say I wasted alot of time getting them back together again ever since then I'm a little over kill on documenting how things come apart

OK OK... well, The only thing *I* can think is agreeing with everyone else.. either your ignitor is bad, or your electronic advance isnt working (and that may also mean your ignitor is bad..ive never messed with the electronic advance so..) IF your ignitor is bad, you can replace it (Blowerbike has some for sale ) but I'd test it and your advance first. You have a service manual for that bike?? It will show you how to test them..

[rABIDwOLF]

You have a service manual for that bike?? It will show you how to test them..

Yeah we have the PDF version of it from BassCliff's website.

It didn't say anything about the electronic advance but it did have the tests to do using a multimeter on the igniter so we'll give that a shot and we'll go grab a timing gun and see if we can figure anything out between the two.

[rABIDwOLF]

IF your ignitor is bad, you can replace it (Blowerbike has some for sale )

got a link handy?

[TheCafeKid]

got a link handy?

LOL he's been posting right long with me here.. Just shoot him a PM if you find yours is bad. he'll hook you up. I know him personally, good guy, good parts, doesnt sell garbage. Spend my fair share of hard earned dollars with him, and he still has a stash of stuff im trying to get my hands on...lol.

[blowerbike]

advance is built into the box and IMHO...
even if the advance quit working i doubt that it would make your bike not pull past 3500RPM.
just would make it kinda doggy unless it actually started retarding it drastically then i guess its possible to be causing your problems.

[rABIDwOLF]

advance is built into the box and IMHO...
even if the advance quit working i doubt that it would make your bike not pull past 3500RPM.
just would make it kinda doggy unless it actually started retarding it drastically then i guess its possible to be causing your problems.

Next time I'm over there I'll try and push it more and see what happens.
We didn't want to seriously screw anything up so as soon as it started bogging we would drop it back down to be safe.

Its just hard testing it since it only does it in drive and he took the center stand off so we kinda have to go ride it, we can't just prop it up and let her rip

[rABIDwOLF]

LOL he's been posting right long with me here.. Just shoot him a PM if you find yours is bad. he'll hook you up. I know him personally, good guy, good parts, doesnt sell garbage. Spend my fair share of hard earned dollars with him, and he still has a stash of stuff im trying to get my hands on...lol.

and this just proves that I'm running on FAR too little sleep today

[Billy Ricks]

advance is built into the box and IMHO...
even if the advance quit working i doubt that it would make your bike not pull past 3500RPM.
just would make it kinda doggy unless it actually started retarding it drastically then i guess its possible to be causing your problems.

What I'm thinking is that if the advance isn't working then the mixture would be super rich above 3.5k. When the advance kicks in it has the same effect as leaning out the carbs. Below 3,500 the advance is something like 15 degrees then goes to 35 degrees above 3,500 IIRC. Might just be enough of a problem to kill the engine under load. I have a couple extra igniters that I intend to keep for spares. I could send one for testing as long as I get it back.

[Billy Ricks]

Next time I'm over there I'll try and push it more and see what happens.
We didn't want to seriously screw anything up so as soon as it started bogging we would drop it back down to be safe.

Its just hard testing it since it only does it in drive and he took the center stand off so we kinda have to go ride it, we can't just prop it up and let her rip

Even in neutral you'll see the advance jump with a timing light if it's working the way it should.

[rABIDwOLF]

Even in neutral you'll see the advance jump with a timing light if it's working the way it should.

ok so if it doesn't jump in neutral then adding load on top of it not advancing would possibly be the cause?


I might take you up on the offer of testing it with a spare ignitor but let me get a timing light and see what happens

[rABIDwOLF]

Managed to get it working, it seems he had a bunch of little issues that all added up to this problem.

Billy sent me a working ignitor and so we swapped that out. My buddy told me the wiring hooked to the one on the bike was really loose when he removed it.

Once we put on Billy's ignitor and took it for a spin it was still running ragged but now it was different. Now it definately felt like a mix issue being too lean and was now dieing at 7k rpm feeling like it had too much gas.

Pulled the carbs and decided to look at them closer this time and had the print out for the dynojet kit in hand for comparison. The owner before him, a motorcycle mechanic, was the one that did the jetting. Stock is supposed to be 117.5, the jet kit calls for 120, the carbs actually had 122.5 mains

Took the needle assembly completely apart and found out the guy never did any adjusting to the needle.

So a quick trip to the auto parts store and hardware store and we were on our way to adjusting Mr. Needle. Slapped it all back together and took it for a spin and it ran WAY better but still had a few hickups in the 6-7.5k rpm range.

Stuck the original ignitor back on and made sure the connections were TIGHT and took it for another spin. Worked fantastically, probably better then ever before actually. We're going to get some 120 jets and try those out to see if that helps clean it up a little more but so far he's happy as a pig in dirt.

Still not sure why the bike ran fine for years and then suddenly jsut decided to act up out of the blue but considering all the repairs/adjustments that we just made maybe it was just everything just adding all up and causing the issue. I think we'll mark this one up as a "win" for now.