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GS550ES valve clearance reccomendations?

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    GS550ES valve clearance reccomendations?

    I reset the valves on my GS, and the noise started. Coughing, popping... Only when hot though....yay.... I took the cover back off and they're still within manual specs when it cools. All the signs are pointing twards the valves being too tight though but the clearances are right. The manual calls for .003-.005" I have em set dead in the middle at .004". Ive double checked the first time and double checked a second time after this fiasco. Still popping. Im using 2 sets of feeler gauges also like the manual states. Checking it when cold. Checking when the rocker is on the base of the cam, not the lobe.

    Is the manual too tight on their clearance? Or am I missing something in the procedure here?

    The joys of being your own mechanic.

    #2
    Is this the four valve per cylinder 550?
    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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      #3
      Hi,

      Yes, please put your bike in your sig line, year and model. What year 550? The valve clearance specs are different between the 8-valve and 16-valve engines.

      8-valve = .03mm - .08mm
      16-valve = .08mm - .13mm

      You mention "rockers" so I'm assuming a 16-valve engine. Do you think you might have caused a cam to skip a tooth on the cam chain or something? Where did you measure your clearances? Under the cam lobes or on top of the valve springs? Sorry, I had to ask. Keep us informed.

      See if this helps:

      Valve Adjustment for 16 Valve Motors
      (by Mr. basic)


      Thank you for your indulgence,

      BassCliff

      Comment


        #4
        Its a 16 valve/4 per cyl.

        Im measuring right underneath the rocker arm. Under the adjuster screws more specifically.

        Metric in the manual states its .08mm-.13mm. Which is .003-.005 inches. I used the inch measurement. .004" for my settings. Dead in the center of tolerances.

        As for the cam skip im not positive BassCliff. I'll give that a look too.

        Edit:
        Mr. BassCliff, that fits the procedure I did to a T. I also noted that it states these engins wear in tighter as time goes on. I doubt it, but this one wasnt ran for 11+ years. I wonder if that might be part of the problem in this. It shouldnt be though. For its age and the time it was sitting, its in pretty good shape internally and externally. Except the plastic side skirts that go under the front half of the seat. The only other thing that was at play here was a PO that caused some pretty fun fixes initially.
        Last edited by Guest; 04-06-2010, 02:47 AM.

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          #5
          My old man came and checked it today. And guess what. Not a peep out of her. *Bangs head*

          The valves were never readjusted, only checked, and checked again.

          Any ideas here? I just went over the exhaust system and replaced all the gaskets for S&G while I was at it.



          Maybe its just competing for attention from the trans am and the Rm125?

          Comment


            #6
            when/where did you get your pod conversion done? I ended up having my local service shop do my valve adjustment after all of my conversions because of the same thing. You need to have the proper equipment!

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              #7
              One of the PO's did it.

              The whole story boils down to this. One guy had it since it rolled off the showroom, sold it to owner 2 because he couldnt get it to run, then owner 3 bought it, sold it for the same reason, and my PO had it, and sold it to me. Somewhere along those lines the pods and 4-1 were put on before it got to me. The time from owner 1 to me was 2 months and the title never changed hands. He neglected to tell me this UNTIL I paid him the money. I did some calling needless to say, and called the police to see if it was legit. It is thankfully.

              I'll stop by a shop and see what they can tell me about it if anything unless you guys can help me.

              Ive got 2 sets of craftsman tools, a manual, An old man that raced numerous bikes along the year to help (Father) and his tools, years of automotoive experience of fixing my own stuff, and an arm that can break bolts off ifi dont watch it. Bikes/atv's are just the same thing in concept and a tad different. And a heck of alot easier to work on might I add. I got most of the basics down, I just need some of the advanced knowledge that you guys have.
              Last edited by Guest; 04-07-2010, 01:25 AM.

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                #8
                I had a hard time with mine which is why I took it in to someone else.........

                I've torn mine down to nothing and put it back together a few times now! The valves are the ONLY thing I couldn't do myself. I have quite the list of stuff on my bike currently......

                I'm rebuilding the petcock as we speak as it has decided to mess with me now. I would recommend taking it in to someone else to get the valves done correctly. I would also recommend making sure your carbs have been rejetted for those pods as they will cause MAJOR damage if they haven't been! I went with the Dynojet Stage 3 kit and it is much better.

                Do you have pictures of your bike?
                Last edited by Guest; 04-07-2010, 01:45 AM.

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                  #9
                  and do you have the actual K&N Pod conversions? These are VERY rare.......

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                    #10
                    Its jetted to stage 3. I did my research here. Seems one of the PO's jetted it also. And the pods are actual K&N's. Ovals, raised section in the middle that matches the back of the carb between the intakes on them. And a chrome K&N cap. Theres a part # too. C047A6. I cant find it anywhere on K&N's site or on the internet either.

                    Most of the pictures I have are of the exhaust system. Nothing major really.







                    And this one you guys should get a kick out of.

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