Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

New clutch cable

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    New clutch cable

    Driving back from the annual checkup today where Doc suggested I reduce my stress levels, the clutch cable snapped.

    Rented a trailer and got the bike home and ordered the new cable. Anything an experienced cable replacer would suggest a noob look out for when installing the new one? Looks pretty similar to replacing the brake cable on a bicycle which I have done numerous times so I am not sweating it too much yet.

    Thanks again for the great help y'all provide.

    #2
    Should be pretty straightforward for you. Just bigger than a bicycle cable.

    Adjusting the cable is pretty straightforward as well, but some people get horribly confused. It's a lot less fiddly than replacing a dérailleur cable, so if you've done that you should figure it out easily. If not, look for a manual to download and peruse from Basscliff's site.

    Make sure you use a bit of grease where the cable end sits in the lever, and on the pivot bolt and "cheeks" of the lever. It's also worthwhile to use a dab of grease at the other end of the cable, and if your bike uses a ramp mechanism under the sprocket cover, make sure it's moving freely. It's fairly straightforward to disassemble, clean, and re-grease this.

    If the hole in the lever is worn egg-shaped, replace the lever ASAP as well.

    One last hint -- use OEM cables and levers only if you can. The Motion Pro levers and cables are low-rent junk compared to the Suzuki stuff, but OEM only costs a dollar or two more.
    1983 GS850G, Cosmos Blue.
    2005 KLR685, Aztec Pink - Turd II.3, the ReReReTurdening
    2015 Yamaha FJ-09, Magma Red Power Corrupts...
    Eat more venison.

    Please provide details. The GSR Hive Mind is nearly omniscient, but not yet clairvoyant.

    Celeriter equita, converteque saepe.

    SUPPORT THIS SITE! DONATE TODAY!

    Co-host of "The Riding Obsession" sport-touring motorcycling podcast at tro.bike!

    Comment


      #3
      Thanks. Got the OEM cable and taped the old one to the new one and just pulled it through. Easy job. Thanks for the help and the top on the grease.

      Comment


        #4
        In the future, be sure and maintain your cable by periodic lubing (easy to do). You would have spotted the wire strands being separated from the ferule, which is normally how they break. And you really should lube that new cable also. Just a thought.

        Comment


          #5
          Thanks for the tip. Bike is only 3 weeks old to me, didn't think to look under the spring for wear. It is now on the checkout list. Would you use oil (like tri-flo) or white grease for the cable in that area?

          Comment


            #6
            They actually make special cable lube oil with an adapter so you can put it in without dripping. Only takes a minute or two and you can be on your way.

            Comment


              #7
              This (I think) is what George is referring to and I have been using on my cables. Use a shop towel on the end to force the spray through the cable, you will be suprised at the nasty junk that gets forced out if you have not done the cables for a while.

              82 GS850L - The Original http://s224.photobucket.com/albums/d...ePics067-1.jpg
              81 GS1000L - Brown County Hooligan http://s224.photobucket.com/albums/d...ivePics071.jpg
              83 GS1100L - Super Slab Machine http://s224.photobucket.com/albums/d...t=DCP_1887.jpg
              06 KLR650 - "The Clown Bike" :eek: http://s224.photobucket.com/albums/d...nt=SERally.jpg
              AKA "Mr Awesome" ;)

              Comment


                #8
                Since the original poster's question is answered, I'll hijack this thread for a related question rather than start a new one.

                I'm replacing the clutch cable on my 82 GS1100L (old one snapped). I removed the old one and routed the new one the same way. It's the cable they looked up in the book, but it seems the housing is an inch too long. I can screw the adjuster in at the engine, or I can attach the top to the lever through the adjustment screw there, but I don't have enough slack in the cable to connect both ends at once, which is kind of the point. Is there a trick I'm missing here? Or was I sold the wrong cable?

                Comment

                Working...
                X