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gs650g slips out of gear sometimes

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    gs650g slips out of gear sometimes

    Hello all!

    Long time lurker, first time poster!

    I have an '82 gs 650gl that sometimes jumps out of second gear, or "skip" in second.

    From what I've read around here, it seems somewhat common.

    It seems to only happen on 1>2 shifts and ends up between 2 and 3
    It dosen't happen on 3>2 downshifts.

    There is also another symptom:
    the shifter is "sticky" when the engine is cold, that is, it won't return to the center position unless I "toe" the shifter. This problem disappears completely within a couple of blocks in warm weather, longer the colder it is. The downshift position is sticky slightly longer than the upshift dir.

    Can the the sticky shifter be the cause of the skips and misses?

    Do the return and cam stopper springs get weak?
    worn cam stopper palate?

    I know, I know, it's probably the dogs... argh!

    Can worn dogs be built up with hardsurfacing electrode and be reground?

    O.K. that's enough questions for one post!

    #2
    Originally posted by Doomrider View Post
    I know, I know, it's probably the dogs... argh!

    Can worn dogs be built up with hardsurfacing electrode and be reground?
    Yes...probably worn dogs...and if it's been jumping out for awhile, maybe a bent shift fork...

    You shouldn't have to have anything "built up", the dogs are generally beefy enough to just be reground. And the internal surface in the mating gear should be re-cut.
    I just fixed this in my 1100E....but I just picked up a used trans off of eBay and did a swap.
    And new gears may be available from Suzuki, but they may cost....A LOT!
    Bob T. ~~ Play the GSR weekly photo game: Pic of Week Game
    '83 GS1100E ~ '24 Triumph Speed 400 ~ '01 TRIUMPH TT600 ~ '67 HONDA CUB

    Comment


      #3
      Greetings and Salutations!!

      Hi Mr. Doomrider,

      I just stopped by to welcome you to the forum in my own, special way.

      If there's anything you'd like to know about the Suzuki GS model bikes, and most others actually, you've come to the right place. There's a lot of knowledge and experience here in the community. Come on in and let me say "HOoooowwwDY!"....

      Here is your very own magical, mystical, mythical, mind-expanding "mega-welcome". Please take notice of the "Top 10 Common Issues", the Carb Rebuild Series, and the Stator Papers. Now let me roll out the welcome mat for you...

      Please click here for your mega-welcome, chock full of tips, suggestions, links to vendors, and other information. Then feel free to visit my little BikeCliff website where I've been collecting the wisdom of this generous community. Don't forget, we like pictures! Not you, your bike!

      Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed.

      Thank you for your indulgence,

      BassCliff

      Comment


        #4
        Thanks!

        Thanks for the replies!

        I guess I won't know until I pull 'er apart.

        I got the bike last year as a project bike, and the problem did'nt show up until I got the low speed circuits in the carbs cleaned properly.

        Can I just use grey atv sealant to reseal the engine cases
        or does it have to be that suzuki-whatever-bond?

        Comment


          #5
          You may just have gunk build up on the shifter shaft and the centering spring under the clutch basket has become weak.
          Do you have a manual?
          1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
          1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

          Comment


            #6
            Update: pulled engine, removed oil pan, broke exaust bolt

            O.K. ... I pulled the engine removed the oilpan and the clutch cover.

            here's what I found...

            The shift drum and cam stopper look good, the 2nd driven gear dogs looked o.k.
            I couldn't see the dog holes on the reduction gear that drives the final drive, but the 2nd gear had an odd wiggle too it when I rotated the output shaft against the dogs. I will try an inspection mirror to see if I can see more.
            the shift fork clearance was within spec.

            Now, when I removed the clutch cover, the stickiness of the shifter disappeared completely !

            It seems that the clutch cover was put on with grey rtv and no gasket.
            The thickness of the missing gasket made the difference, without it the end of the shaft would bind against the protuberance on the clutch cover that holds the shaft in place.

            I also broke both exhaust bolts on the #4 cyl.
            Then I broke an easy-out in one of the bolts!!!!!

            I heard a crack, and thought the bolt was going to move, so I gave it a little more...
            That was after I welded a bolt on the broken one and then twisted it off even shorter!

            Suzuki should have made those bolts out of the corrosion that froze them in place, it is obviously stronger!

            I think I'm just gonna mig some threaded rod onto the ends and use nuts!

            I am leaving the top end intact because I absolutely don't want to remove it! (some of the head bolts are rusted, and there are no problems there anyway)

            OK, now for the questions...

            Should I buy a clutch cover gasket, or could I file down the protuberance so the shift shaft won't bind?

            Can the oilpan be replaced with rtv, or do I need a gasket?

            When it comes to splitting the cases, what is the likelyhood of breaking off the crankase bolts?

            Do the crankshaft bearing inserts fall out when you split the case?

            When I reassemble the cases, do I have to use that 3bond stuff?

            should I put studs in place of bolts on the exhaust so I could use acorn nuts or even chrome skull nuts?

            Does someone have a spare layshaft they could part with?
            82 gs650gl

            Comment


              #7
              Wow, it sounds like you will be busy.

              First, I would simply replace gaskets with gaskets not RTV. If you don't want to buy preformed gaskets, make your own. I have made gaskets for clutch and stator, I am sure that you could make one for oil pan also.

              As for the cases, just buy the recommended sealer, it is cheap and works fine. I am using a Yamabond product, I think it was yamabond 4, it is grey in color. Most now use the 3 Bond stuff, it really isn't expensive.

              You most likely will not break any of the crankcase bolts, they are beefy and buried inside of lubricated motor, not exposed to elements and heat cycled forever like exhaust bolts.

              Yes, many have replaced exhaust bolts with studs, sounds like a good idea.

              Your crankcase bearing inserts most likely will stay exactly where they are, and not fall out.

              I will warn you that you will have trouble with the two allen head bolts that are located near the oil filter area. These are buried in cases and were extremely tight. You will need a good impact driver to remove the screws under the clutch. Likewise, the cases themselves may be difficult to separate. The dowel plugs that line up the halves tend to stick. Good luck, and ask away.

              Comment


                #8
                This is GREAT! I am going to be doing the same thing real soon.


                Will

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