Several questions for a 1978 GS1000E

[noobie]

Sorry to bother you guys again so soon.

I don't know how many of you remember, but last year I was trying to keep a log as me and my father restored our 78 GS1000E. Work halted in July due to several factors and it's been standing in the workshop since then. The bike was finished optically and put together completely, but there were a few technical gremlins that really took the joy out of it, plus other personal reasons that I'm not going to list here.

The GS standing there was a sight that tore at my heart, even though in the meantime I got a newer toy, a 2003 GSX-R 750.

This year in the beginning of April my Gixxer was rammed by a car while the bike was parked in a parking lot before a motorcycle club's club-house. The cage driver, while driving in reverse, hit the bike's rear wheel and pushed it forward, pushing it off the side stand and causing it to fall on it's left side, shattering the indicators, damaging the plastics, etc.. Since the insurance company was trying to sc-w us over along with stalling things horribly, the GS received renewed attention so we'd have at least something to ride while we waited for them.

I must guiltily admit that even though I love the Gixxer and it's a great bike to ride (no, I don't speed and always abide the law... our speeding tickets here are too horrible... for 20 mph (32 kmh) over the limit in populated areas you pay 1500 EUR - or 2000$ along with getting 3/4 of the allowed penal points before they take away your license ---- something that is made worse by the fact that 55% of our population earn less than 780$ per month, and we're supposed to be a developed Middle European country ), but now that the GS is back on the road I slightly regret buying the Gixxer because I know I'll rather be riding the 32 years old GS than it. Well, the Gixxer does have a couple of pros over the GS: longer 1st gear, newer technology, better handling, better suspension and better curve-managing and a few other things.

Well, at least now that we've started on the GS again we solved the previously horrible fuel econo of about 8 liters per 100 km, if I remember correctly, the cause being the old rubber seal on the fuel T that goes from the carbs to the petcock. It was one of the many disheartening reasons last year why work paused on the bike. The fuel econo is now much better, under 5 liters. Next to the great torque and the grunt and sheer muscle power this bike has under low RPM (especially useful in slow, sharp 180 degree turns), the now-low fuel econo is another plus for this old girl.

Still, there are a few gremlins, that's why I'm turning to you for help.

#1... there is a grinding sound in the lower end of the engine under 1500 RPM. It fades a little when the clutch lever is pulled, but otherwise it's bad enough so that I set the idle speed to 1500 RPM to avoid hearing it. Could it be that the chain is dragging in the transmission aka the train is tensed too much? Anyone else had this problem?

#2... this is more or less an idle question, just wanted to get confirmation. Since the carbs aren't synched yet (don't have the tool yet, but have already arranged with a mechanic that he'll synch them on Wednesday), I'm guessing they are the reason for the bike not being very responsive to throttle for the first 20 miles, for example when I open the throttle it's like the engine is choking. Another example is that the bike is bucking, not running smoothly at stable RPM.

#3... the front brake light switch in the brake lever assembly is not working properly. From what I gathered on this forum this is a regular bug with these bikes, the contact points having been made badly. Also, is my suspicion correct and there should be a small spring in the whole assembly? Cause there isn't one on my bike. Would utilizing a spring from a chemical pen (or ballpoint pen, or how they're called) work? I tried to look for this part on ebay, but there is none and at my local Suzuki dealer I can get only the entire assembly at a really rip-off price, an expense I'd really like to avoid if possible, especially since I would overpay the part about 40 times.

#4... how much must the air screws be turned from a slightly seated position on the carbs? Am I right in assuming it's for 1.5 turns?

The last one isn't bike related, but forum related: when I go into the "Technical forums" subdirectory there are, for example, for the "Carbs" directory 365 threads listed, but when I enter that directory, only 20 threads exist and no indication that there are more pages. Same for other directories.

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For the heck of it I'm posting a pic of the bike that I made a few days ago on the first test ride after the carbs were fixed with the new rubber seal of the fuel T. The only thing we changed are the mufflers, but even these still have the OEM, street-legal DB killers in them, otherwise it's an European-stock bike.

Also, if any of you are interested I put a short video of a driveby / soundcheck on youtube, here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7lbTDh1p1oE&feature=channel

Unfortunately I couldn't film the grinding noise because my camera isn't good enough for it to be heard clearly.

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Thank you in advance for all your help!

[SqDancerLynn1]

On the 78 Gs1000 carbs I would start by checking the intake boots and replacing the intake O rings before taking it to the Mechanic. Start with the bottom fuel screw turned out about 3/4 to 1 turn. The side air screw about 2-2.5 turns Have your mechanic adjust the air screws for highest idle, then do the carb sync. The noise may be better after a carb sync, If not it is time to check the clutch basket, a rebuild may be necessary ! Could also be the cam chain tensioner..The light switch is an easy fix - get a new one from Suzuki $15 or get a hyd pressure switch, mount it in the junction under the fork tree. For the throttle response ? Make sure the air box is sealed good

[noobie]

On the 78 Gs1000 carbs I would start by checking the intake boots and replacing the intake O rings before taking it to the Mechanic. Start with the bottom fuel screw turned out about 3/4 to 1 turn. The side air screw about 2-2.5 turns Have your mechanic adjust the air screws for highest idle, then do the carb sync. The noise may be better after a carb sync, If not it is time to check the clutch basket, a rebuild may be necessary ! Could also be the cam chain tensioner..The light switch is an easy fix - get a new one from Suzuki $15 or get a hyd pressure switch, mount it in the junction under the fork tree. For the throttle response ? Make sure the air box is sealed good

Thanks for the suggestions!

[Big T]

1. The grinding noise can come from the clutch (left side), right side (starter clutch) or middle (cam chain tensioner). You should check out each one in turn.

2. A bad sync can cause this, but more likely is that your carbs are dirty and need new O rings

3. Buy an new one , or check the tutorial

4. 2.5 turns more or less

5. The Forum is a bit weird at times. If you're only getting a few threads in a forum, look down at the bottom of the page. You'll see a box for "Show Threads" and a drop down. Change the drop down to 2 weeks or all or whatever you want. Click it and many more threads will appear

[noobie]

Thanks for the help!

1. The grinding noise can come from the clutch (left side), right side (starter clutch) or middle (cam chain tensioner). You should check out each one in turn.

2. A bad sync can cause this, but more likely is that your carbs are dirty and need new O rings

3. Buy an new one , or check the tutorial

4. 2.5 turns more or less

5. The Forum is a bit weird at times. If you're only getting a few threads in a forum, look down at the bottom of the page. You'll see a box for "Show Threads" and a drop down. Change the drop down to 2 weeks or all or whatever you want. Click it and many more threads will appear

Thanks for the help.

More info:

1. the engine was rebuilt, with new cam chain tensioner and cam chain tracks and new cam chain. The clutch plates are still old and, before we started pulling the bike together, we did the last test ride and the plates stuck together for a second, before releasing and operating normally. Now the clutch operates normally, doesn't slip, when the lever is pulled and a gear is put in, the bike is not moving. However the grinding noise disappears noticeably when the clutch lever is pulled.

2. carbs haven't been synched yet, are meeting a mechanic tomorrow (we don't have the carb synchronizer ourselves so we have to rely on others for that, but will be buying one soon). When the bike was restored the carbs were taken apart and rebuilt as well, with the Keyster carb kits. Last week before the first ride we took the carbs down again, took them apart completely because the fuel T was leaking. While we were waiting for the new rubber seals for the T, we checked everything (the carbs were perfectly clean), reset the floats, checked the jets, everything.

3. Good news, have found an aftermarket kit on ebay and bought it (I love PayPal) - I only hope they'll keep their promise and we won't be waiting another 4 weeks for it. Good thing too, because our Suzuki dealer wanted 45$ for it, while on ebay I paid only 8$... Strange thing, I was looking for this exact kit just a couple of weeks ago and there were none, they had only the rear brake switches, but now there were several front brake switches. Can't wait to have it installed, will be a stone off my chest (not having to be worried about being rear-ended will be a major relief).

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Thanks again for all your help, it's great such a great forum exists, with members so willing to help (unfortunately this is not the case everywhere).

[Big T]

#1 - the clutch on the GS is notorious for two things

1. The springs at the back of the main basket go bad, creating a sound like rolling rocks in a metal can, or a Kawasaki A7.

2. The clutch hub nut comes loose, even tho it has a tab washer to keep it tight

Also, another member posted about finding loose bolts under the cover

You should pull the clutch cover, the clutch hub, all the plates (carefully,in the same order) and check for #1, #2 and whatever else might be going on in there.

The clutch can work fine and still have these issues, until - let's just say you don't want to reach that point.

BassCiff has a manual for your bike on his website, put it to use

[noobie]

#1 - the clutch on the GS is notorious for two things

1. The springs at the back of the main basket go bad, creating a sound like rolling rocks in a metal can, or a Kawasaki A7.

2. The clutch hub nut comes loose, even tho it has a tab washer to keep it tight

Also, another member posted about finding loose bolts under the cover

You should pull the clutch cover, the clutch hub, all the plates (carefully,in the same order) and check for #1, #2 and whatever else might be going on in there.

The clutch can work fine and still have these issues, until - let's just say you don't want to reach that point.

BassCiff has a manual for your bike on his website, put it to use

Thanks, Big T! I had a mechanic listen to the noise today and he speculated too that it's the springs. Will take the clutch apart and will order new springs either way... who knows if the current ones aren't still the first ones.

Thanks again.

[Big T]

Thanks, Big T! I had a mechanic listen to the noise today and he speculated too that it's the springs. Will take the clutch apart and will order new springs either way... who knows if the current ones aren't still the first ones.

Thanks again.

If it's the clutch hub, you need to get it reinforced by someone who knows what they're doing

[koolaid_kid]

AFA seeing more threads, go down to the bottom of the section, you will see 3 drop down list boxes - Sorted By, Sort Order, and From The. Drop down the list on From The, and you will see lots of selections. Select one that suits you, such as Last 100 Days. Best of luck.

[noobie]

Thank you for all your help, guys!