Changing the Clutch Springs on my 1982 GS850

[jhillier449]

Let me know if you want a fellow GS riding partner some time.

John

1980 GS1000G
1982 GS650G

[Octain]

Glad to see you ran it up there! cool ain't it...

woe to those who never get the chance to see what an '850 is capable of doing.

Agreed!
Just when ya think it aint got no more its like someone hit a power switch and it keeps on climbing. Kinda reminds me of my ole CR.

Great thread legaleli and thanks for posting the pics.
Awesome!

[legaleli]

And.... we're still slipping

Gosh darn it... still slipping. Not as bad as before, but definitely still some slip in the clutch - and it wasn't there when I first installed the new springs - it came back after an hour of hard driving.

I think I need new clutch plates - where is a good place to buy for my 1982 GS850G? I am in Canada.

AND... there is also a noticeable "chatter" - like bones clanking together, from the clutch side when the bike is warmed up... it can only be heard at idle, and it is not continuous... there is chatter that appears to be happening with the rotation of the basket, but not on every rotation... it is not continuous... like a "clack.... clackity clack... ... ... .. clack clack... clakity clack ... ... ... .. ..." Clutch in or out at idle in neutral - it matters not... same sound.

I have no idea if I'm making sense here.

[chef1366]

If the steels have a glaze on them the fibers won't grab. I'd hit them with steel wool or some 400 grit sandpaper.
Did you measure the fibers?

[legaleli]

If the steels have a glaze on them the fibers won't grab. I'd hit them with steel wool or some 400 grit sandpaper.
Did you measure the fibers?

The fibers measured within the tolerances quoted in the manual - but I didn't use a steel wool - that's something I will have to try next. I wonder if I can reuse the gasket... probably not. I'm tempted to get new plates just to have new ones - I can recondition the old ones and hold them as a back-up - not that I'll ever need them but someone might!

I am also wondering about the "chatter" - I believe it was there all along. I did re-torque the main basket nut. JHillier came over to listen to the noise and thought that it sounded pretty harmless but also admitted that he wasn't sure.

By the way - JHillier's 1980 GS1000 is pretty sweet. It has a different kind of power than my 850 but the bikes are pretty darn similar in their overall feel.

[Mysuzyq]

What oil are you running? If you have used oil not compatible with wet clutches in the past, the drive plates may have absorbed friction modifiers, causing them to slip, even though they measure within spec. If you take it apart again, scuff up the steels with the coarsest sandpaper you have available....I used horizontal strokes running straight between the inner & outer diameters of the plate to better engage the drive plates, but that probably doesn't matter much. Also, re-adjust the cable exactly as per the manual, after installing the clutch pack. The gasket can probably be reused.

[BadBillyB]

Gosh darn it... still slipping. Not as bad as before, but definitely still some slip in the clutch - and it wasn't there when I first installed the new springs - it came back after an hour of hard driving.

I think I need new clutch plates - where is a good place to buy for my 1982 GS850G? I am in Canada.

AND... there is also a noticeable "chatter" - like bones clanking together, from the clutch side when the bike is warmed up... it can only be heard at idle, and it is not continuous... there is chatter that appears to be happening with the rotation of the basket, but not on every rotation... it is not continuous... like a "clack.... clackity clack... ... ... .. clack clack... clakity clack ... ... ... .. ..." Clutch in or out at idle in neutral - it matters not... same sound.

I have no idea if I'm making sense here.

Typically when the clutch basket backing plate and cush springs become loose (this is on back of basket), you will get this kind of noise. Pulling the clutch in usually doesn't stop the noise but rather changes it slightly. If the noise does not respond at all to clutch input, you may have camshaft end float syndrome....Re-check your clutch cable end play at the bar end. As the plates wear or "bed in" the cable gets tighter. If the cable is too tight, the clutch will slip.....I only recommend stock factory Suzuki plates, and you can buy them individually, enabling you to re-use the ones that dont have any wear. The picture you posted of the lock washer and wrecking bar made me cringe. You should use a pair of channel-locks to flatten the washer as the post in the center hub is not strong enough to be side loaded like that. I always flatten it in 2 places, opposite each other, on a fresh spot on the washer....Billy

[blowerbike]

even if your plates measure within spec...
the problem is the fibers become hard/baked and have no grip.
replace with OEM fibers and ruff up your steels.
simple eh?

[gs road racer]

Next time use channel locks on the lock washer that bar slips you've broken the inner hub.......

[legaleli]

Typically when the clutch basket backing plate and cush springs become loose (this is on back of basket), you will get this kind of noise. Pulling the clutch in usually doesn't stop the noise but rather changes it slightly. If the noise does not respond at all to clutch input, you may have camshaft end float syndrome....Re-check your clutch cable end play at the bar end. As the plates wear or "bed in" the cable gets tighter. If the cable is too tight, the clutch will slip.....I only recommend stock factory Suzuki plates, and you can buy them individually, enabling you to re-use the ones that dont have any wear. The picture you posted of the lock washer and wrecking bar made me cringe. You should use a pair of channel-locks to flatten the washer as the post in the center hub is not strong enough to be side loaded like that. I always flatten it in 2 places, opposite each other, on a fresh spot on the washer....Billy

BadBillyB and GS Road Racer:

Excellent advice and exactly what I will do when I get my new plates.

[legaleli]

even if your plates measure within spec...
the problem is the fibers become hard/baked and have no grip.
replace with OEM fibers and ruff up your steels.
simple eh?

I just ordered new OEM drive and driven plates - delivered in one week. Decided to go with both because the steels were 64 bucks for all 8 - shag it - at least they will be perfectly flat!

Total for all plates: 199 + tax = 224.87

At least I don't have to pay the installation fee (thanks to you guys)!