valve adjustments/clearance

[modsoundmind]

So I looked through the bikecliff valve tutorial, and decided I'd give my local suzuki/triumph dealer a call to see how much it would cost to have them check and adjust my valves. The service tech talked to me like I was a moron asking why I wanted to have it done I explained it has 18k on it and probably hasn't ever been checked. They quoted me $350.
I will be tackling this one myself with my brother. Any good tips?

[spyug]

Brother I am glad you came to your senses. $350......what a crock.That's why we call them stealerships.

Valve adjustment is not hard on a 16 valve but is a little fiddly on a n 8 valve with shims and buckets. Non the less it is all doable by the average GS owner. Don't sell yourself short you can do it for sure.

Review the tutorials onMr. Cliff's excellent site, ask your questions and give it a go. I know you can do it and will be pulling for ya.

Let us know when you have it done and share your experiences with the newbies.

cheers,
Spyug

[tkent02]

$350 for what amounts to a half hour's work for someone who has the tools.
Maybe an hour if the gasket is stuck.
They would only mess it up anyway, their job is to sell new motorcycles, ruining old ones is a big part of that.

[VinciMMA]

Use some WD-40 to loosen the bolts otherwise you run the risk of stripping the threads...like I did haha. Thankfully home depot/lowes/ what ever hardware store is your choice sells this little kit that has different sizd threads in it, tells you what bit to use for a particular thread/bolt size, drill and pop the new threads in. Best part is they're stainless steel so they'll never strip again. I'm seriously considering doing this to ALL of my screws/bolt holes.

Also take your time and do it right, get a manual or a guide online. Screw that $350! This is actually really really easy to do...one more thing take the tank off much easier to see everything though it can be done without removing the tank and make sure to replace any gaskets they're real cheap anyway order them through your dealership = free shipping

[drejal]

definitely pick up a digital caliper from harbor freight, or I got mine from Lowe's. Helps to figure out the thickness of your present shims if you can't read the numbers. (which is quite possible, several of mine were very tough to read)

I'd also recommend using steve's valve adjustment spreadsheet, it takes the math out of the equation (and therefore human error) and lets you know what size shim you need, if it is out of spec.

Steve walked me through my first adjustment. It really isn't difficult at all, especially using the "zip tie" method you'll find on cliffs site. You'll laugh at the $$$ you'll save for such an easy procedure.

[Steve]

They quoted me $350.
... Any good tips?

Yeah, do it yourself.

You did not mention what bike you have, but it does not matter, it's easy enough to do an 8-valve or a 16-valve.

Valve adjustment is not hard on a 16 valve but is a little fiddly on an 8 valve with shims and buckets. Non the less it is all doable by the average GS owner.
Review the tutorials onMr. Cliff's excellent site, ask your questions and give it a go.

Cliff's tutorials are meant to enhance the service manual, not replace it. The service manuals have the definitive word on what needs to be done, Cliff just put better pictures in there.

$350 for what amounts to a half hour's work for someone who has the tools.
Maybe an hour if the gasket is stuck. ...

Even after doing several, I find that 45 minutes is about right. I usually allow a full hour, just in case.

Use some WD-40 to loosen the bolts otherwise you run the risk of stripping the threads...

...one more thing take the tank off much easier to see everything though it can be done without removing the tank ...

Better to use a penetrating oil like PB Blaster instead of WD-40. WD is meant to disperse water, and has a very light oil, but it's not really much of a penetrant. It's not much of a lubricant, either, but that's for another thread.

definitely pick up a digital caliper from harbor freight, or I got mine from Lowe's. Helps to figure out the thickness of your present shims if you can't read the numbers. (which is quite possible, several of mine were very tough to read)

I'd also recommend using steve's valve adjustment spreadsheet, it takes the math out of the equation (and therefore human error) and lets you know what size shim you need, if it is out of spec.

Steve walked me through my first adjustment. It really isn't difficult at all, especially using the "zip tie" method you'll find on cliffs site. You'll laugh at the $$$ you'll save for such an easy procedure.

Yes, a digital caliper is almost a necessity. Best to sped a few dollars extra and get on that has a small tang that comes out the end as it extends. That makes it very useful when setting float heights in the carbs.

I would also suggest getting the spreadsheet from that Steve guy (if you have an 8-valve engine).
Just be sure to follow the directions in his (my) signature.

Even stopping to show drejal the various steps and explaining what was going on, we were still done in less than an hour, weren't we?

.

[tkent02]

Yes, a digital caliper is almost a necessity. Best to sped a few dollars extra and get on that has a small tang that comes out the end as it extends. That makes it very useful when setting float heights in the carbs.

HF has some 6" digital calipers on sale now for $10.
I bought one several years ago, it still works fine.
I may buy another just because it's cheap.

[drejal]

Yeah, do it yourself.


Even stopping to show drejal the various steps and explaining what was going on, we were still done in less than an hour, weren't we?

.

from the moment the old gasket seal was broken, till we set the timing cover back on afterward, easily under an hour.

This is gonna be real funny if it turns out he's got the 16 valve!

dre

[sscott]

Also do you and everyone a favor and in your signiture put in the year and type of bike you have.

It will help with future questions you may or may not have.

For example, GS1100GL and the year.

[jwhelan65]

I'm with the masses here, your first time through you really need a shop manual with a tutorial. It may seem a little intimidating at first but after you get going it is fairly simple. You will need a decent set of feeler gauges and the valve tool is helpful but not necessary. KEEP YOUR MONEY!

[modsoundmind]

83 GS 1100 GL
sorry guys.
So a few questions, where to get the shims? Local dealer? Digital calipers/feelers... same thing? Valve tool...where to buy, parts store?
Don't know if I'll need them yet, I'm going to do a bit more research on my specific model bike. I think mine is 16 valve...
Yeah $350 is just under half of what I paid for my beast. So it's a bit hard to spend that much cash on something I know I can do with the help of my brother.
Also any suggestions for my shaft drive engine side seems to be leaking a bit. Nothing terrible but I degreased it and rinsed it down and there is a bit of thick gear oil back after a week of back and forth to work. I'm guessing it's probably an O'ring or seal that can be replaced when I change the gear oil. This baby was a mess when I bought it. Leaking valve cover, busted fork seals ect... which btw I broke a bolt when torquing down the valve cover, the extra long one in front. So I've ordered some real gaskets and will be replacing the entire bunch of bolts when I adjust the valves. btw thanks for all the input so far.
Also here's the handy tool we built for taking the forks apart.

[BassCliff]

Hi,

Where is it leaking? You may just need new crush washers for the drain bolts.

You have the 8-valve engine, with "shim over bucket". As stated in my tutorial, Z1Enterprises.com has pretty much the best prices on shims at about $5 each. There is also a Shim Club here in the forum where you can trade your larger shims for smaller sizes.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[modsoundmind]

the shaft is leaking engine side where the boot meets,

[BassCliff]

Hi,

This has been discussed before. There is a seal there at the back of the gearbox where the drive shaft connects to a U-joint under that boot. I've never worked on mine but Mr. bwringer, Mr. Zooks, or Mr. Steve should be able to shed some light on the subject. If you craft your search terms properly you should be able to find what's already been posted about it.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff