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    Another cam chain adjuster question

    Hello,

    How much play should I expect in the tensioner knob with a brand new chain and rebuild? Engine not even run yet.


    Before I tarted rebuilding the engine there was at least 3/4 of a turn slack and now there is less than 1/8 of a turn back.

    I thought that maybe there was one or two links that had droped below the crank when the chain guides went in so I pulled them out and reseated the chain. No change.


    Is it normal?

    Thanks

    #2
    What all did you replace?
    Did you release the plunger?
    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

    Life is too short to ride an L.

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      #3
      The cam chain tensioner is spring loaded. Not just the knob. You shouldnt mess with it at all once its armed... Dunno how many times people have said that. If you're not sure you put it in right, take it back out, and follow the installation instructions again. Be sure not to lock the side screw down all the way, it needs to be a half turn back from seated to allow the plunger to retract and extend..

      Comment


        #4
        Thanks for the reply's and warning.

        I understand exactly how the tensioner works and I have set it up properly.

        Without the knob assembly installed I can see the plunger inside and it moves freely as I push on the timing chain and it recovers when the chain is released as it should. The chain is tight and doesn't show any signs of slack when the engine is rotated.

        Whats getting me is when I reinstalled the knob assembly it had to be turned all the way out to it's limits and when the whole assembly was seated I could barely move the knob at all. I mean there is some free play but not as much as I expected.

        Before the rebuild the engine had 28000 km on it and I could see the taper on the plunger was further in and the knob had allot more play.


        I did a complete teardown and rebuild with new gaskets and new timing chain.

        Am I worried for nothing? Is this just what a tight engine should be like before break in and re-torquing of the head.

        Thanks
        Last edited by Guest; 05-10-2010, 01:53 AM.

        Comment


          #5
          Sounds like you are doing something wrong. Check on Basecliff's site for tension er repair

          Comment


            #6
            Just found it


            Turns out its completely normal to be as tight as it is, well at least it makes sense now.


            The gasket i used in the kit i got was 1/32 paper type material, but the old one I took off was 3 times that, and when I backed off bolts holding the tensioner to allow 3/32'' ( like the original gasket) between the tensioner body and the cylinder block It allowed allot more movement of the self adjusting knob. Funny what 2/32 of paper will do :P

            All is well now.

            thanks for looking

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