Some pics of Blowerbike's nuts

[Guest]

HA...you're all a bunch of sick perverts...Get your minds out of the gutter!!

Seriously though folks, someone on here recently posted they'd bought a GS1150 clutch hub nut from Suzuki, and it was no different than the 1100E hub nut. Below are pics of hub nuts from a stock 1100E, a stock 1150E, and an APE chrome-molly hub nut... Can you tell which is which?










So, lets see how smart ya are

left to right, you have

Stock 1100E, Stock 1150E, APE

The stock 1150 hub nut is the SAME SIZE at the APE in every facet. Its just not chrome-moly steel. If you were to order this piece from Suzuki, this is what you should get, right? Or has the part number been superceeded???

[Nessism]

Right to left, you have

Stock 1100E, Stock 1150E, APE

The stock 1150 hub nut is the SAME SIZE at the APE in every facet. Its just not chrome-moly steel. If you were to order this piece from Suzuki, this is what you should get, right? Or has the part number been superceeded???

I recently bought three of those 1150 nuts and they look just like your photo.

Regarding the "chrome-moly" nut, what exactly does that mean? Run of the mill 4130 is only 125 ksi tensile strength, about the same as a grade 5 SAE or 8.8 Metric. Nothing special. I assume that Ape nut is more like grade 8 or 10.9?

At any rate, I used loctite on my 1150 nut and torqued it to the max spec listed in the manual. Fingers crossed it doesn't come loose.

[TheCafeKid]

I recently bought three of those 1150 nuts and they look just like your photo.

Regarding the "chrome-moly" nut, what exactly does that mean? Run of the mill 4130 is only 125 ksi tensile strength, about the same as a grade 5 SAE or 8.8 Metric. Nothing special. I assume that Ape nut is more like grade 8 or 10.9?

At any rate, I used loctite on my 1150 nut and torqued it to the max spec listed in the manual. Fingers crossed it doesn't come loose.

As far as the chrome-moly, the drag guys, or better still, engineers or metalurgists would know better, but Id assume its much harder, and more resistant to thread wear and "squish". I put an APE jobby in my 1100ES, narry a knock. Just torque to spec, use the loctite, and life's good Id suspect

[jwhelan65]

Just looks like three little nuts to me.

[TheCafeKid]

Just looks like three little nuts to me.

they aint quite little...32mm...

[Nessism]

As far as the chrome-moly, the drag guys, or better still, engineers or metalurgists would know better, but Id assume its much harder, and more resistant to thread wear and "squish". I put an APE jobby in my 1100ES, narry a knock. Just torque to spec, use the loctite, and life's good Id suspect

I am an engineer, thus my comment. I'd like to know what the actual material is, not some generic term like chrome-moly. After all, that's a seriously expensive nut.

[kinnet]

I am an engineer, thus my comment. I'd like to know what the actual material is, not some generic term like chrome-moly. After all, that's a seriously expensive nut.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chrome_moly

[TheCafeKid]

I am an engineer, thus my comment. I'd like to know what the actual material is, not some generic term like chrome-moly. After all, that's a seriously expensive nut.

Terry (Blowerbike) and I were discussing this very fact the other day when I took these pics for him. He seemed fairly certain that a person could get the stock 1150 nut, and never have a problem. Chrome-moly or not, it seats better, threads better, and is beefier clearly. You can actually put some ass behind it without it spitting out threads. so.. $7 for a stock 1150, or $20?? or whatever it is for APE? I have one already, but I'd take a shot with a stocker, and see what happens.

[TheCafeKid]

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chrome_moly

Uh.... it says "harder" huh huh uh huhh uhhh

That's pretty explainitory. I dont understand it, but Ed might. Good job sweets

[kinnet]

Uh.... it says "harder" huh huh uh huhh uhhh

That's pretty explainitory. I dont understand it, but Ed might. Good job sweets

It also says "Elongation"...

I don't understand it either... Hence, just the link and no comment, because I'd look like an idiot. Ha.

[Mysuzyq]

I am an engineer, thus my comment. I'd like to know what the actual material is, not some generic term like chrome-moly. After all, that's a seriously expensive nut.

I think they are hardened as well, unlike the stock item (take a file and try to scratch the side, is someone has one handy), and can withstand repeated dis-assembly without as much thread deformity...the stock ones seem good for 5 or 6 cycles, I'm told. The $30 price includes a hefty mark-up without question....there is a CNC machining company next door to my work & I thought of getting a quote on 1000 of these, when things are slow over there....I'd be surprised if they are more than $4.00 to $5.00 a piece.

[blowerbike]

ummm,
what about my nuts.
next time...a little for-play please

[Mysuzyq]

ummm,
what about my nuts.
next time...a little for-play please

Scratching them with a file would be foreplay, no?

[blowerbike]

Scratching them with a file would be foreplay, no?

[Nessism]

I agree about the heat treatment part. That can take a fairly soft part and add about 50% to it's strength. I suspect that Ape nut is heat treated, or it should be for the price.