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    Are there parts missing? Help!

    I am trying to replace some clutch parts on my 82 1100GL.

    Put it together once and the Clutch lever was way loose. (previous thread from yesterday) Took it apart again and looked at a drawing of the clutch assembly in the manual and it looks like I am missing some pieces.

    [IMG]file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/czereme/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot.png[/IMG]When I removed the clutch plates I noticed no seat spring, wave washer or piano wire. Do those need to be there? The bike was shifting, but not great.

    The reason for taking it apart was that I was having a hard time finding neutral and it was shifting hard.

    Does it matter what direction you put the stamped metal clutch plates back? The rounded edge out or in?

    Thanks in advance

    #2
    Originally posted by czeremcha View Post
    I am trying to replace some clutch parts on my 82 1100GL.

    Put it together once and the Clutch lever was way loose. (previous thread from yesterday) Took it apart again and looked at a drawing of the clutch assembly in the manual and it looks like I am missing some pieces.

    [IMG]file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/czereme/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot.png[/IMG] When I removed the clutch plates I noticed no seat spring, wave washer or piano wire. Do those need to be there? The bike was shifting, but not great.

    The reason for taking it apart was that I was having a hard time finding neutral and it was shifting hard.

    Does it matter what direction you put the stamped metal clutch plates back? The rounded edge out or in?

    Thanks in advance
    Sounds like you are missing the spring wire piece. I'm not clear on whether or not it's needed but I do know you need a clutch hub nut installed, and you need to get that broken bolt out too.
    Ed

    To measure is to know.

    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by czeremcha View Post
      I am trying to replace some clutch parts on my 82 1100GL.

      Put it together once and the Clutch lever was way loose. (previous thread from yesterday) Took it apart again and looked at a drawing of the clutch assembly in the manual and it looks like I am missing some pieces.

      [IMG]file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/czereme/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot.png[/IMG]When I removed the clutch plates I noticed no seat spring, wave washer or piano wire. Do those need to be there? The bike was shifting, but not great.

      The reason for taking it apart was that I was having a hard time finding neutral and it was shifting hard.

      Does it matter what direction you put the stamped metal clutch plates back? The rounded edge out or in?

      Thanks in advance
      My God is that ATF on the splines???

      Comment


        #4
        There are two washers and a steel that fit on the rear of the hub. You don't need the piano wire but you do need the wave washers.
        1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
        1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

        Comment


          #5
          NO, it doesn't matter which way the steel plates go in, as long as they are all the same way... All round in or round out.

          Comment


            #6
            on an every day street bike it does not matter if the punched side of the steels are all the same.....
            on a performance bike it may make a difference but i doubt it.
            i do place the flat side out on all the ones i do.
            just good practice for my brain.

            Comment


              #7
              looks like the 1st steel isn't there.
              you should start with a steel(piano wired in) and finish with a fiber.

              Comment


                #8
                So just where exactly did that hub nut end up?


                Life is too short to ride an L.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Wow guys thanks for the help.

                  1st off its not ATF. The oil I use is a Lurication Engineers product. It is a paraffin based oil.
                  8800 MONOLEC ULTRA ® Engine Oil (SAE 15W-40)

                  Secondly the Hub nut is off to the side.

                  Luckily the broken bolt came out easy....

                  Just ordered the parts. Thanks again.

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