Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

16v 1000cc rebuild

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #16
    Originally posted by koolaid_kid View Post
    I put each ring in by hand, using a small plastic stick to help.
    How do you use these sticks? Do you lay them flat against the OD of the ring and then hold the ring in it's groove while pushing the piston into the bore?
    Thanks
    2000 Honda Valkyrie Tourer (it's gone)
    1985 Suzuki Madura GV1200
    2 X 1980 Suzuki GSX1100ETs (next project
    s)

    Comment


      #17
      Yes on using the sticks & if they flex too much glue 2 together. Also, Kibblewhite has 2 different springs for a GS & the lower pressure springs will work fine for what you want to do. I can get them for you if you need. Ray.

      Comment


        #18
        Thanks Ray,

        I'll have to measure them tonight to see free length.

        Comment


          #19
          Hi Mr. Smokinapankake,

          Have you seen Mr. Steve's valve spring replacement tool?

          Valve Replacement
          (by Mr. Steve)

          It's simple, cheap, and works great.


          Thank you for your indulgence,

          BassCliff

          Comment


            #20
            So I've measured my springs, both inner and outer, and they all exceed the limit spec'd in the manual.

            The specs are as follows:

            Valve spring free lenght (IN/EX)
            Inner: 31.9 mm or 1.26"
            Outer: 35.6 mmor 1.40"

            There is no standard length listed in my service manual, only the limits.

            SO, if my springs are longer than the limits they should be ok. There is also a spring tension standard but no limit. I have no accurate way to measure this so I'm going to have to go off length alone.

            As it is, my springs all measure:

            Inners: 1.270" - 1.285" ish...
            Outers: 1.443" - 1.458"

            These are well over the length limit specified in my manual so I don't think I'll be replacing them.

            Thanks for posting that video link Basscliff, Steve makes it look easy!
            Last edited by Guest; 05-24-2010, 07:05 PM.

            Comment


              #21
              As promised before, some pics of the valve spring compresor C-clamp shoe adapter (phew, saythat fast three times):



              Retainer in the bottom:


              Now on top:




              In the head, checking clearances:


              The swivel end of the C-clamp fits into the recess on the top, the retainer fits into the recess on the bottom, holding everything in place while I squish the springs (in theory).

              My guys at work did it for me in their spare time - thanks Dan!

              Comment


                #22
                Holy friggen crap, that spring compressor tool is beautiful!!! You da MAN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
                Ed

                To measure is to know.

                Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                Comment


                  #23
                  Keep in mind that just because your springs are still in the length range, it does NOT mean they will have sufficient pressure at INSTALLED HEIGHT! Ask Terry if you think this is no big deal. Ray.

                  Comment


                    #24
                    How should I measure the tension, or stiffness, of the springs? The manual calls out for a certain kg of force at a certain length. I have no way to do this and I doubt many people do who rebuild their own engines, be they car or motorcycle. I'm sure it may possibly be an issue, but I don't know for sure if my springs are bad, and with no way to check them, I'll never know.

                    What happens in a motor with valve springs that are sacked/too soft? Educate me please, that's partly why I embarked on this journey....

                    Thanks!

                    Comment


                      #25
                      stock springs are on the soft side when new.
                      you need access to a spring tester and i would buy a set APE springs and figure the installed height and set/shim to 40-42lbs seat pressure.
                      this is not an area that i excel in because i usually have the machine shop do this for me...i have done a few in the past on my bikes though.
                      ray could better supply the PSI for you..also kibblewhite has excellent products as far as the springs go.
                      if the valves are sunk any then the seat pressure will be lower.thats why you need to know the installed height.
                      there may be a "saFE" set of springs available to just install.
                      when in doubt...send the head to ray or a reputable machine shop for all of the above.
                      NOTE:
                      high seat pressures will destroy the rockers and cams in within minutes of starting.

                      Comment


                        #26
                        Can you make me one of those? I'll buy it.
                        1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                        1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                        Comment


                          #27
                          Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
                          Can you make me one of those? I'll buy it.

                          I didn't make it; a machinst accomplice at work did it for me....

                          Comment


                            #28
                            Remember, too, that when I tore this whole thing down 2-1/2 years ago it was running, and running really well. Didn't take compression figures before I tore it down, and wish I had, but what's done is done.

                            Its not like I'm resurrecting some neglected old derelict rusting away under an apple tree with 20 years of sludge in the tank....

                            It's been well cared for in its past with the upgraded coils, steel braided lines, 4-1 header, K&N pods, and jetting to match. It ran really really well with no backfiring or stumbles anywhere. They even went so far as to install Progressive springs and an ATK fork brace.

                            Maybe I'm just trying to justify my aversion to spending money where it may not necessarily be needed..... Or is this just false economy?
                            Last edited by Guest; 05-25-2010, 04:29 PM.

                            Comment


                              #29
                              I have 2 Rimac spring testers & ALWAYS check & shim valve springs to get the exact pressures I want at correct installed heights. If you get the lower pressure Kibblewhite springs, they will work for you. You never know, the stock springs may even shim into the correct pressure. Let me know if you need help. The issue with soft springs is that they cause valve float & you NEVER know it until it's too late. This is why ALL the heads I assemble are checked at installed height for correct pressure & shimmed as neccessary. Ray.

                              Comment


                                #30
                                That tool is beauty!!! If your bud wants to fab a bunch of those I'm sure they would go fast here...

                                I'd buy one for sure.
                                '85 GS550L - SOLD
                                '85 GS550E - SOLD
                                '82 GS650GL - SOLD
                                '81 GS750L - SOLD
                                '82 GS850GL - trusty steed
                                '80 GS1100L - son's project bike
                                '82 GS1100G - SOLD
                                '81 GS1100E - Big Red (daily rider)

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X