... or is this a bad idea?
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Clutch basket - what does it all mean Basil?
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legaleli
Originally posted by Big Jay View Post
... or is this a bad idea?
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legaleli
Here we go...
The only think I don't like it that the guy who did this for me didn't spot weld the stainless washers to the springs... they can't come out of the housing because they are bigger than the opening... but not much bigger... and they can protrude a bit. I'll have to check clearances before putting it back together.
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Originally posted by legaleli View PostHere we go...
The only think I don't like it that the guy who did this for me didn't spot weld the stainless washers to the springs... they can't come out of the housing because they are bigger than the opening... but not much bigger... and they can protrude a bit. I'll have to check clearances before putting it back together.
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legaleli
Originally posted by posplayr View PostSo let us know how hard you ride and how much that helps v.s. putting in a HD plate.
I actually just brought the piece back to the shop... the shim washers he put in were so small as that they would slide out enough to "hang" further out than the drive gear. That got me thinking that if a washer hooked up on an internal part of the housing and got pulled out of the basket housing it would end up in the crankcase... not a place I'd want a stainless steel washer!
This could create a while new issue because they have to drill the old weld, use a new rivet, and weld it back... I can feel a replacement in my future... but the guys at the shop are pretty good... time will tell.
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gearhead13
When I did my 750 hub, I bought an angle grinder and ground off the rivets on the backside, pried it apart, then shimmed the springs with washers and had it tig welded at a machine shop. I am not sure if the HD rebuild kit that APE sells will fit other bikes than the 1100/1150. You would at least have to drill out the aluminum basket for much bigger rivets.
Once you have the hub apart it will make it easier to understand how the thing works.
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FlyingSteve
Originally posted by legaleli View PostHere we go...
The only think I don't like it that the guy who did this for me didn't spot weld the stainless washers to the springs... they can't come out of the housing because they are bigger than the opening... but not much bigger... and they can protrude a bit. I'll have to check clearances before putting it back together.
Uh, the reason he didn't weld to the springs is because if you heat the spring up, like what would happen when you weld to it... It causes it to lose it's "springyness" Yes, I know I made up the word and I know that isn't the engineering/technical term for it but you get the point. You ever see a ricer with his car all lowered and it's bouncing all over the road? Well, that is probably because the dumb F used a torch to heat the springs and this caused them to lose the... (Uh, damn it too much to drink now and I can't remember the fricken word I want to use...) .. Um, it caused the part of the spring that was heated to lose it's "rebound".
Anyway, you get my point. What the welder did was the right thing to do because he knows his shat!
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Tension?
......................1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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legaleli
Originally posted by chef1366 View PostTension?
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Flyingsteve is right on the whole spring weld thing... my bad
My problem is, and I'm sure of this... if the springs loosened up again... which they would.. the washers would rattle like the springs did... the diameter of the washers this guy used was too small... the washers actually protrude so that you could lay the basket down on a flat surface with the washers pulled out as far as they can go and the washers would hang down further than the lip of the drive gear - the washers would become the legs of a "basket" table.
By way of example:
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FlyingSteve
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legaleli
It looks as if the shop has buggered up my clutch basket altogether...
I am going to be in the market for another... This time I'll buy my own welder and fix up the damn thing myself!
Just to confirm - if the Bike Bandit part number is the same in between years that means it's the same part right? I can then order from Ebay...
Oh well... at least I've got something to do!
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gearhead13
Bike Bandit part numbers are unique to them, look up somewhere like alpha sports to get the correct suzuki number for cross referencing.
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The Suzuki has a spacer, not a shim, at the end of only three of the springs. They have a step on them that fits inside of the spring so it won't come out. Don't put pain flat shims in there. When they come out they will find their way into the transmission.
Why don't you just have a clutch basket done by those that know how to do them. The one you have in the photo could still be used as a core.Speed Merchant
http://www.gszone.biz
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Originally posted by Big Jay View PostThe Suzuki has a spacer, not a shim, at the end of only three of the springs. They have a step on them that fits inside of the spring so it won't come out. Don't put pain flat shims in there. When they come out they will find their way into the transmission.
Why don't you just have a clutch basket done by those that know how to do them. The one you have in the photo could still be used as a core.
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