Fuel in Oil recovery

[Capella]

OK here is my sob sorry:

1980 GS 1000G

I had the carbs rebuilt by a local shop, I got the bike back and stored it for the winter, but I had not noticed they left the fuel setting on Prime. Sigh.

Over the winter the (full) tank leaked into the engine block, so by Spring the breather had overflowed and the engine was full of fuel/oil. The bike is stored in a shed over the Winter, so it went undetected for 7 months.

So I drained the engine, the clutch handle was completely slack. I removed the clutch cover and took the clutch apart, springs and plates are in spec, but the clutch release shaft has no tension on it.

1) I see nothing wrong in the clutch, but cannot figure out, why is the clutch handle is totally slack?

Beyond that, I can flush the engine to remove the fuel residue, but I am wondering:

2) What other issues a soaking in fuel for a long period would cause?

I will re-lube the bearings and all before turning it over. But I am worried about any corrosive issues from the fuel:

3) Any ideas on what I should check?

Thanks for the look, any input will be appreciated.

Mike

[Jonzilla]

I just purchased an 1100g model a week ago that was full of fuel too. I changed the oil/drained fuel and put good fresh oil in and it runs well. I don't detect any clutch issues so I can't help you there, but there is probably good hope for the engine.

[ryonker]

Don't light any matches near the engine for a while!

No, seriously, I would change the oil and fill and change it a couple of times. It's possible the gas supercleaned the inside of your engine which could be good.

On the down side, I think the gas can do stuff to the gaskets, so watch for oil leaks.

Rick

[chef1366]

Did the clutch cable snap?

[Capella]

Thanks for the feedback. I was concerned about the seals and bearings, but sounds like I can just keep an eye on them, thank you.

The clutch cable is working, the pinion lever is working on the engine case, there is just no resistance to the pinion lever action, at first I thought the clutch could have been frozen, it is almost like the springs are not there, but they are. Or like the pinion and rack were dis-engauged. Hmm. I'll check the pinion shaft, and lever again, I just jumped into the clutch assuming the worst, given the fuel issue.

Mike

[BassCliff]

Greetings and Salutations!!

Hi Mr. Capella,

I just stopped by to welcome you to the forum in my own, special way.

If there's anything you'd like to know about the Suzuki GS model bikes, and most others actually, you've come to the right place. There's a lot of knowledge and experience here in the community. Come on in and let me say "HOoooowwwDY!"....

Here is your very own magical, mystical, mythical, mind-expanding "mega-welcome". Please take notice of the "Top 10 Common Issues", the Carb Rebuild Series, and the Stator Papers. Now let me roll out the welcome mat for you...

Please click here for your mega-welcome, chock full of tips, suggestions, links to vendors, and other information. Then feel free to visit my little BikeCliff website where I've been collecting the wisdom of this generous community. Don't forget, we like pictures! Not you, your bike!

Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[Capella]

Hi Basscliff - I was a forum member a while back but that seems to have expired. I have been to your site and found it very informative (unlike the Suzi Shop manual in some cases). Thanks again.

Mike

(Capella - the goat star)

[Big T]

Try setting the pinion lever outwards (anticlockwise) a notch or two and see if the clutch doesn't start to work again

[BassCliff]

Hi Basscliff - I was a forum member a while back but that seems to have expired. I have been to your site and found it very informative (unlike the Suzi Shop manual in some cases). Thanks again.

Mike

(Capella - the goat star)

Terrific! Welcome back!

These are tough bikes. Change all the fluids and I'll bet you'll be fine.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[Capella]

Closure

First, thanks for all the replies.

Second, yes I know I owe you all a picture.

Third, I drained the fuel/oil mix from the engine case, removed the case cover at the clutch. removed the clutch plates and all, seems with no oil the unit just bound up. Manually oiled the plates and reassembled, now the clutch works fine.

Replaced the covers, refilled the oil, did some other maint. Engine fired up! Fooled with the carbs a bit and it runs pretty well now.

I appreciate all the advice, it helped. I even made my own gasket for the clutch case cover, and it hasn't leaked yet, life is good.

Thanks again, bike is running strong, wish I was, we both are oldies

Mike


Ah one thing to look at, check the tach cable for lubrication, about 75 miles after I got the bike back on the road it snapped. Lubrications was poor toward the top, this is the second cable I have replaced though, so it could just be its time.

Mike

[Muleboy]

Reopening the Thread for My Similar Problem

I just read this, and wanted to get some additional thoughts on a similar problem.

I've got a new-to-me '83 850 G that I obtained from its first owner in May with 2800 original miles [!].

At 4800, I noticed some slight fork seal weeping, and I determined to throw the work to a young guy in the DC area who has focused on late 70s - early '90s Japanese motorcycles. He's well-regarded, helpful, and enthusiastic. He has an assistant (sigh).

In addition to the fork seals, I authorized him to do a 5,000 / 6,000 mile fluid service. Engine oil, final drive oil, general look-see. I was on travel, so I picked up the bike a week after the repair was completed. On the drive home, I noticed a mild lurching at 70 mph, with no engine braking after letting off the throttle. I suspected slipping clutch, probably from wrong oil. I didn't want to drive it, so I parked it for a week in order to schedule time to get it back to the mechanic. When preparing to get it to my repairer (a week later), the clutch handle had gone slack and the clutch wouldn't disengage. I then found gas all over the outside of the cylinder head. When delivered to them, the assistant mechanic informed me that he'd left it on Prime because you were supposed to.

I was then told by the head mechanic that my carbs were faulty, and that the bowl/needle hadn't been able to keep gas from leaking into the crankcase/engine. The rebuilt the carbs (which I had declared, and they had declared, to be in excellent shape) and triple-flushed the engine oil. They also had readjusted the clutch, which they diagnosed as just a maladjusted cable.

After it was returned to me at night, I put on 25 miles, but in rush hour couldn't get it up over 45.

The thing sat for, at most, seven/eight days with substantial gas in engine.

Assuming that I don't have the lurching/clutch slip at 70 mph:

(1) should I assume that the clutch cable was merely misadjusted (it currently seems to fell fine);

(2) other than watching the seals, is there any other preventative work I should do; and finally

(3) what do you think the likely long-term damage is, if any?



PS Um, it is only supposed to be put on Prime when you want to prime the damned thing, right? Otherwise "On" ? ;-)


Thanks!

Muleboy

Now:

'82 GS750T

'83 GS850G
-------------------------------------------------
'90s:

'82 GS1100E

'82 GS1100G

'83 GS850G

various inferior Japanese and English motorcyles. . . .

[tkent02]

When delivered to them, the assistant mechanic informed me that he'd left it on Prime because you were supposed to.

I was then told by the head mechanic that my carbs were faulty, and that the bowl/needle hadn't been able to keep gas from leaking into the crankcase/engine. The rebuilt the carbs (which I had declared, and they had declared, to be in excellent shape) and triple-flushed the engine oil. They also had readjusted the clutch, which they diagnosed as just a maladjusted cable.

Wow, there's another shop not to go back to.
There's nothing wrong with your bike, except some bone head left it on PRI, which is only for priming as you said. The carbs are not designed to hold the fuel back, that is the petcock's job, which it can't do on PRI. The carb's float system is designed only to keep fuel at a constant level while fuel is flowing at various rates, the fact that they can sometimes stop the flow of fuel is irrelevant, it is not their job.

Hopefully no real damage was done by these idiots. If the clutch works fine and there are no leaks, don't worry about it. It's not likely you will get any compensation from these morons, and you certainly don't want them touching it again.

Learn to do this stuff your self, it's cheap, educational, and fun.

[Capella]

When delivered to them, the assistant mechanic informed me that he'd left it on Prime because you were supposed to.



(1) should I assume that the clutch cable was merely misadjusted (it currently seems to fell fine);


(3) what do you think the likely long-term damage is, if any?



PS Um, it is only supposed to be put on Prime when you want to prime the damned thing, right? Otherwise "On" ? ;-)


. . .

Hi,

The "Pri" setting, is used to disable the engine vacuum controlled fuel flow flow cut-off feature. The cut-off feature prevents fuel flow from the tank if the engine isn't running. Which can be real handy in an accident, or when removing the tank.

Normally the fuel left in the carbs will re-start the bike and then the engine will provide vacuum to allow more fuel to flow to the carbs via the "On" setting, but if the carbs are dry (say after a rebuild) then using "Pri" will refill them.

Basically "Pri" just lets the tank drain uncontrolled into the fuel line. "On" only lets fuel flow if there is engine vacuum.

In short, the fuel selector should always be left in the "On" position, if there is fuel in the tank.

1) The clutch didn't work because the gasoline mix in your oil thinned it to the point it prevented the clutch disks and plates from sliding, this was the same issue in my problem, re-oiling them fixed the problem completely.

3) Also re-lube your tach cable or be prepared to buy a new one.

Mike

P.S. - In my experience the only one that will care for your bike properly is you. Every time I take a bike into the shop it is either damaged while in their care, or not reassembled correctly. Do what you can yourself, if you do take the bike in, inspect it closely upon return.

M

[raistian77]

First, thanks for all the replies.

Second, yes I know I owe you all a picture.

Third, I drained the fuel/oil mix from the engine case, removed the case cover at the clutch. removed the clutch plates and all, seems with no oil the unit just bound up. Manually oiled the plates and reassembled, now the clutch works fine.

Replaced the covers, refilled the oil, did some other maint. Engine fired up! Fooled with the carbs a bit and it runs pretty well now.

I appreciate all the advice, it helped. I even made my own gasket for the clutch case cover, and it hasn't leaked yet, life is good.

Thanks again, bike is running strong, wish I was, we both are oldies

Mike


Ah one thing to look at, check the tach cable for lubrication, about 75 miles after I got the bike back on the road it snapped. Lubrications was poor toward the top, this is the second cable I have replaced though, so it could just be its time.

Mike

Good deal, glad to hear its ok. You are gonna replace that petcock right? Mine failed a while back and did the same thing, came down stairs to head to work and my half tank was an empty tank.