Nice job, very nice to see the pics and the methodical manner in which you are tackling this job.
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TWO Broken Rocker Arms. GS700E.
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Smokinapankake
I found out the hard way that the head/cylinders have to be out of the frame to get the airbox in and out. Glad you got yours in before its too late!
Nice job, very nice to see the pics and the methodical manner in which you are tackling this job.
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SVSooke
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It might be too late but I would not use molybeum based grease as a prelube because it could contaminate the clutch plates and cause slippage. If that doesn't matter and someone else chimes in that they've done it for 10 years straight with no problems I'll step aside.
You are a brave man taking this on, I would have gone for another motor and left it at that. But you'll have a solid engine when you are done and get a great deal of satisfaction out of doing it yourself.1981 GS650G , all the bike you need
1980 GS1000G Power corrupts, and absolute power corrupts absolutely
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kirkn
Thanks for the positive comments. It's getting fun, seeing the motor and bike go back together.
Here's a look at the notes I took on disassembly. I just kinda went higgledy-piggledy on the disassembly. Just kinda whatever seemed good to come off next. But, I wrote it down exactly as it came apart.
Then, when it was time to go back together, I just reversed the order as modified by any special instructions in the manual - dimension checks, torques, etc.
But, the proof will be when (if) it starts!
Kirk
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Mar 2006
- 35611
- Torrance, CA
You are smart to do the engine yourself. Buying a used engine is a crap shoot, particularly with 30 year old gaskets and all. You done good!!!Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
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kirkn
Chugging along slowly. Lately, doing the valve lapping.
At the beginning, most of the valves weeped immediately when the ports were filled with acetone. Something like 13 of 16.
I cleaned up the combustion chambers using a brass wire brush and some solvent.
Popped the valve keepers loose with my favorite trick of a smart rap on a socket. Pops 'em right out.
Routine valve lapping. Here, I'm doing the intake valve at the lower left of the chamber. The other 3 valves have been done.
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kirkn
Next, the valves, springs, etc. get reassembled using my high-tech C-clamp and PVC-pipe compressor and keeper installation tool. I have a small wooden dowel glued to the C-clamp to keep from damaging the valve or combustion chamber. Takes about 1 minute per valve.
I fill the ports with acetone and check for leaks. Acetone is very thin and finds leaks right away.
Which, unfortunately, it looks like I still have...
The valve on the right is much better, but the valve on the left is moist after a few minutes. You can see a few drips trickling down to the intake port...
So, I popped the valves backed out and lapped 'em a little more. They looked good the first time, with a nice uniform line of gray, but there you go. The second time, there was no weeping after 5 ~ 7 minutes.
So, at this point, I've only done the one cylinder yesterday evening. I'll keep chugging along, and the head will then be ready to go back on.
KirkLast edited by Guest; 02-08-2011, 02:12 PM.
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Even if you leak a little they will seat in a matter of seconds running.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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kirkn
Well, I really appreciate the feedback.
I've read that before, but I've only lapped valves in 3 or 4 motors, and they held fluid the first time, so I don't have any personal experience enough to say - oh, that bit of fluid will seal up. But I DO have experience with intake valves leaking back thru...
I just couldn't bring myself to make that call.
But, based on your input, I suspect I will next time. Not that I'm gonna TRY to get 'em to leak y'know, but next time I might not go to the disassembly / reassembly effort.
Thanks again.
Kirk
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This is a great thread to read... I was getting the itch to get at my scooter but we got 2 feet of snow last week. The shed might as well be in Alaska.. I wish I was as organized as you have been... I look forward to the startup of your engine...
Curtsigpic'85 GS1150 1428 14-1 200+hp Hang On
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kirkn
...and after only 4 months of neglect, and a YEAR after first pulling the head, I'm back on the job!
I finished up the valve lapping - all 16 are leak-free now. Woo Hoo.
Got the head put on and torqued with nice new copper sealing washers and new head gasket.
Then, following the book, got the cams back in and set correctly to the marks on the cam sprockets and the ignition timing mark.
Lesson learned: at this point, without the automatic tensioner, if you rotate the crank, all will move well until a point when there's slop on the backside of the cam chain. The intake cam will move forward under the load of valve springs, and the chain will jump a tooth!! AARGHH!!
I got lucky in that there was enough slop to allow the intake cam to be rotated back one tooth and reset the "20 link pins" relationship without having to pull the intake cam back out! Whew - dodged a bullet.
So, I refurb'd the tensioner, which basically amounted to a clean and lube and it was ready to go back in.
Now, all works sweetly, and notice that nice taut cam chain across the top of the two sprockets.
New-used rocker arms replaced the two that broke, and it looks like we'll be back in business. Everything turned nice and freely.
Next is set the valve clearances and I'll be ready to button 'er back up.
Then carbs overhaul, which I hope will be a "routine" disassemble, clean, reassemble-with-new-rubber-bits.
Gettin' closer, and I'm smelling the finish line!
Kirk
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kirkn
And... DONE!
Well, I got the valve cover and new cover O-ring back on successfully.
Then, the carbs had been sitting for a year in MY garage and a year in the PO's before that, so they got the full disassembly, clean and reassemble with new O-rings, etc. Not really that bad. I think he must've drained out the gas before letting 'em sit.
The only unusual bit was a "broken" main jet. Weird. See the thread about that here: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=178229
So, I got a new jet from Jetsrus.com, and finished up the carbs, which went back on the bike.
And that was it!
Hooked up my IV-type temp fuel source and it fired right up! Woo Hoo!! Tweaked the idle and all seemed good.
So, this past weekend, I put about 150 miles on it, and it seems to be running just great. Filled the tank and got 42.5 mpg for that first tank.
So, overall, I've got about $900 in the complete deal. Not too bad, sez I.
Next up will be tweaking the idle mixture screws, although it seems pretty crisp at the bench setting of 2.5 turns out. Then, I'll do a carb sync with the Carbtune. I did a bench sync as best I could, but that'll be the topper.
Then, I need to source some mirrors and blinkers, and it'll be fully back in business.
And what a nice ride! And strong! It's been a while since I've been on a bike this strong, and it's only a 700. My past half-dozen rides, going back 5 or 6 years have all been ~500cc or less.
So, that's all, folks!
Kirk
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