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77 GS550 troubles / swap in an 81 GS550L engine?

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    77 GS550 troubles / swap in an 81 GS550L engine?

    First post on this forum! My girlfriend has a 77 GS550 that has never ran well since she got it. 31,000 miles and left outside for a long time, was pretty rusty and nothing worked right when she got it.
    We've done a lot of work to it replacing small parts and getting all the gremlins out, but hadn't gotten the engine to run well yet. After she replaced the cables and some small work, and did a lot of carb work with one of her friends, it still wasn't running well. We upgraded the points to Dyna electronic ignition. Now, with a much hotter spark with the electronic and new wires and coils, all of the sudden we were getting a backfire all the time out of the right side. Set timing by ear at first. It bogged down big time when you would give it gas.

    Today, we were tinkering with it for a long time, fixing some oil leaks, installing kick starter, etc. I got the timing light out to tune it, and got it set as best as I could , but the marks were jumping around under the gun. 1 and 4 fire simultaneously, and I thought it was cool that there were also timing marks 180 out for 2-3 (new to motorcycle mechanics), so I put my timing light on the other cylinders as well. THEN, I noticed 4 was not firing all the time! pulled the plug out, pretty black. cleaned, put back in, no change. Plug wire was arcing if I'd hold it close to the chassis, pretty much all the time non stop. The spark on the timing light would drop out a randomly, sometimes for 5 or 7 seconds at various rpm's. After replacing the plug with a brand new one, still, poor running conditions.

    So I started doing a compression test, fearing bad valves or rings. Not sure if I was doing it right, maybe cranking too much for a motorcycle engine (tinker with old cars a lot primarily), but I thought that #4 was only at 70-90psi. I forgot and had #2 still hooked up and it started firing. Well, I did #1 and got 120 dry for reference. then I dumped a cap of oil from the quart jug into the cylinder. This got the offending cylinder up to 120 in two cranks. Thought the rings were bad. Ran it for a bit, burnt off the oil so I thought, working in the dark and late for dinner, rushing through things. Then I put more oil than necessary in, two caps from the oil jug, tested, 155psi.

    Out of time, had to throw it back together in case she rode it tomorrow. Tried to run it and burn off the oil again, blowing smoke out the right bank exhaust. She test rode it around the block and said it has never ran that good ever! I was thinking that the oil just needed to burn off and it would go back to misfiring all the time and backfiring in #4.

    After our company left, we both took it out, thinking that we just had some oil between the rings, sealing things temporarily. We rode it for a half an hour to 40 minutes, up to about 6000 rpm, a lot of highway, and it still rode great. Ever since the beginning of this test ride, no smoke really out the right side. I was thinking that was peculiar for just having dumped two caps of oil into the cylinder. Told her to ride the hell out of it tomorrow to see if it got worse.

    So I am wondering if I either did the compression test wrong or something (o-rings smashed down, cranking too much or fast, etc will retry if it starts running bad again), or if I just temporarily got a lot of oil in between the rings to temporarily seal it, or if somehow by some weird chance, taking the spark plugs in and out several times had given me a better ground on #4 (that would be very strange), and that was all that was wrong? Plugs were from previous owner a year and a half or more ago, all else in the ignition is brand new. It's running excellent after that ride, but not sure how long it will last. Not sure whether it was the wet compression test sealing it up for a short while, or if somehow there was a weird grounding problem with the spark plug and threads? That would be really strange if so.

    Any opinions or suggestions?

    ALSO, MORE IMPORTANTLY, We have an opportunity to buy an 81 GS550 engine with real low miles that runs great for $400. I was thinking that if it needed totally rebuilt, that this engine would be an excellent deal if it would bolt up. Everything external to the engine looks identical pretty much, both are just 8 valve engines. powerband specs were the same for all GS550's except the Katana engines I think it was. I know the carbs were exclusive to 77-78 or 77-79, b ut it looks like they may bolt up to the 81 engine also, but we have not verified. This 81 engine is like brand new. Are there any issues with this swap? I think 80+ had electronic ignition already, so we can use the same coils and wires, etc.

    If the engine goes south again, we will probably opt to swap the whole thing out if this is possible, to avoid a lot of machine shop fees, parts, and paying someone with more time and experience to rebuild the engine for us.

    Help us out if you can!

    Thanks,

    Chuck and Reda
    Last edited by Guest; 07-12-2010, 05:02 PM.

    #2
    Greetings and Salutations!!

    Hi Mr. rrok220,

    The '77 uses Mikuni VM carbs. The '80 and later uses CV style carbs (Mikuni BS series). The carbs do not swap without modified intake boots.

    I can only speculate that the oil in the cylinders loosened up the rings and improved the compression. Sometimes Marvel's Mystery Oil is used for this purpose.

    But as to the reason I'm here. This is known as your "mega-welcome". It contains essential information necessary for restoring and maintaining a safe and reliable motorcycle. Let's get started.
    I just stopped by to welcome you to the forum in my own, special way.

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    Here is your very own magical, mystical, mythical, mind-expanding "mega-welcome". Please take notice of the "Top 10 Common Issues", the Carb Rebuild Series, and the Stator Papers. Now let me roll out the welcome mat for you...

    Please click here for your mega-welcome, chock full of tips, suggestions, links to vendors, and other information. Then feel free to visit my little BikeCliff website where I've been collecting the wisdom of this generous community. Don't forget, we like pictures! Not you, your bike!

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    Thank you for your indulgence,

    BassCliff

    Comment


      #3
      Th 80 motor is a bolt in. All you'll need to make the thing fit is the front (plastic) part of the airbox with the rubber boots (to fit the later CV carbs). Either that or stick on some pod filters and play about with the jetting.

      You'll lose the kick start though (shame).
      79 GS1000S
      79 GS1000S (another one)
      80 GSX750
      80 GS550
      80 CB650 cafe racer
      75 PC50 - the one with OHV and pedals...
      75 TS100 - being ridden (suicidally) by my father

      Comment


        #4
        An 81 had no provision for a kickstart? What years were they available on? Is there a way to swap the covers and other parts to make this work, or is it a total engine teardown?

        I consulted a dealer and they told me that the 81 block shared the same part number as the 77 block!

        About the current 77 engine - an electrician buddy of mine suggested the same thing, that the rings just got stuck /rusted in place and all that oil finally broke them loose. If ridden while they were stuck like that, would that potentially cause scoring or damage to the cylinder walls and rings???? I take it that oil from the crankcase was not able to make it up that far, or in enough quantity to free things up? Could this be damaging?

        Also I havent cracked open the manual yet, but she is having shifting problems, when trying to shift, it doesn't shift with the movement of the shift pedal. She wanted the pedal almost level with the foot peg, and we have the turnbuckle type linkage out more than halfway. Does the pedal just need adjusted up higher on the splines to make this work?


        I see some common issues on the Greetings page that we will probably look at to get it to run better yet. Last night, she was astonished by the change in performance, but said that with two passengers totaling 300+ lbs, I wasn't sure how well it would perform, in regards to her telling me that it drove a lot better on the highway, but still in 6th gear, it was hard to get it above 80, and slight hills made it grunt a lot. I suppose a mere 49 hp and the wind resistance may have been a lot of the culprit there, but I still am wondering if it will run a lot stronger than that. We did just find two major vacuum leaks on some ports on the carbs that were not plugged! Once we got #4 running, I bet that made a huge difference!

        With the intake o-rings, is this where the carb boots clamp on? Can I just shoot carb cleaner around them to see if the engine dies down (sucking cleaner in through leaks)? Same with the intake boots?

        Also, in musclecars, when you upgrade from points to HEI (electronic), it is a must to increase the spark plug gap from around .035" to about .045" (sorry, do you refer to that in metric on a Japanese bike?), as well as sometimes changing the heat range of the plug. The Dyna kit made no mention of either, and the motorcycle mechanic that helped guide us through carb and ignition tuning didn't seem too concerned about spark gap. Any ideas?

        Trying to squeeze near-original performance out of this thing. Also wondering if the floats were set properly, and hoping that it's not starving the engine at high rpm's.

        As is it pulls pretty decent (I guess that's how a smaller bike is supposed to feel?), but like I said, two passengers, and over 80mph is very slow accelerating and hard to attain.

        But wow, the sound of that engine screaming at 5000-6000 rpm's is AWESOME! I can only imagine what a 650 or 750 would sound like! I always wanted an old 70's Honda 650cc or 750cc with spoked wheels, and also fell in love with an old Royal Enfield 650 a few years ago that looked more sleak and racer-like than any R Enfield I have been able to google, but have not owned my own motorcycle yet. I think 70's japanese bike with spoked wheels is the way to go, as Triumph's are out of the question, financially!

        Comment


          #5

          page 6



          The stock exhaust is almost cracked in two on one side, and the other side has a big rust hole near the bottom of the mufflers. Can we replace the mufflers with some shorties like these? I see on the exhaust it says to use the stock exhaust and not modify it, as it is already tuned for max performance. These cost A LOT less, however!
          Last edited by Guest; 07-12-2010, 05:37 PM.

          Comment


            #6
            A lot of time the compression comes back after running for awhile. 81 motor would work- need to find something (like radiator hose) to make adapters to fit the newer head

            Comment


              #7
              My car mechanic friend immediately said, "Oh, why didn't you ask!? Sounds like you had a misfire and then a sticking exhaust valve!"

              any idea on if that universal 24" widemouth megaphone EMGO muffler will have sufficient back pressure to maintain the same tune as intended by the factory, or is that big disclaimer on the factory exhaust blown out of proportion?

              She still says her old Honda SilverWing 500 I think it was had more power than the GS550, so we will continue tracking down other issues causing this. Rides A LOT better so far though.

              Thanks for the warm welcome and the advice!!!

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