Many thanks........
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ddeboer
Clutch Hub
I've recently been given advice to "tighten down the clutch hub" on my 1983 GS1100E due to the rear wheel spinning when bike is on center stand, in gear and clutch depressed. I've newly aquired the bike, can anyone tell me where the adjustment is and how to do it?
Many thanks........Tags: None
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Originally posted by ddeboer View PostI've recently been given advice to "tighten down the clutch hub" on my 1983 GS1100E due to the rear wheel spinning when bike is on center stand, in gear and clutch depressed. I've newly aquired the bike, can anyone tell me where the adjustment is and how to do it?
Many thanks........1978 GS1085.
Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!
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I said that reffering to the bottom end noise you said you are experiencing.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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Originally posted by ddeboer View PostI've recently been given advice to "tighten down the clutch hub" on my 1983 GS1100E due to the rear wheel spinning when bike is on center stand, in gear and clutch depressed. I've newly aquired the bike, can anyone tell me where the adjustment is and how to do it?
Many thanks........
Tilt the bike to the left and secure
REmove clutch cover
Remove clutch plates keep in order
Tighten down that big nut in the middle
Check BassCliffs site for a service manual1978 GS 1000 (since new)
1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
1978 GS 1000 (parts)
1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
2007 DRz 400S
1999 ATK 490ES
1994 DR 350SES
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Originally posted by Big T View PostPull the right footpeg and brake lever
Tilt the bike to the left and secure
REmove clutch cover
Remove clutch plates keep in order
Tighten down that big nut in the middle
Check BassCliffs site for a service manual
Pictures say it best. http://members.dslextreme.com/users/...ds-n-ends.html
May recommend an APE nut. The stock nut is a bit soft82 1100 EZ (red)
"You co-opting words of KV only thickens the scent of your BS. A thief and a putter-on of airs most foul. " JEEPRUSTY
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Originally posted by Big T View PostPull the right footpeg and brake lever
Tilt the bike to the left and secure
REmove clutch cover
Remove clutch plates keep in order
Tighten down that big nut in the middle
Check BassCliffs site for a service manual
Might have to pull the brake lever but I never do. The foot peg doesn't need to come off on an ED.
Order an APE clutch hub nut to swap out while you are there.
Get a manual as one front bolt (on clutch cover)just up from the bottom is a special length and if you swap in a longer one will grind on The clutch. Also nice to have a dowty seal on it as it tends to leak. See manual or parts fiche.
get a new gasket and be sure to clean off the old else it will really leak.
Your getting alot of duplication in this thread (especially from me ). One other thing is alot of people will say to get SS bolts which would be nice but not absolutely necessary with the ED as they have little 8mm hex head bolts and not Phillips head.Last edited by posplayr; 08-01-2010, 01:54 PM.
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mrb302
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if someones half way in....
an intelligent person would remove the entire assembly back to the trans bearing and inspect everything.
its not like these bikes don't sling the baskets out anyways.
again,
it has nothing to do with racing..the helical gears was mistakes Suzuki made trying to keep the primary gears from whining like an old Z1 or KZ.
sometimes i just scratch my head
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