Fix the cam float problem or get another head?

[north49]

Suzuki Don...re: measuring the end float with removing the head. When you remove the valve cover, you'll see one valve being depressed. You need to have the cam shaft laying in the journals to measure the end float. I haven't tried this (yet) but I reckon if you removed the shim and tappet from the depressed valve, the cam may then have enough clearance to lay down in the journal.
I hope this works 'cause I don't want to pull the head to do this otherwise pretty neat and easy job.
I'm busy with other projects right now so hope you try this out and let me / us know the results

[TheCafeKid]

I like Tom's idea of nylon or some type of "wear-resistant" polymer to replace the stock half moon cam plugs... Even if they didnt run in all the way to TOUCH the cams at all times, it would at least lessen the amount of the walk. I flipped my stock rubber moons backwards, and its seemed to help a little.. Still there.. tho my bike actually makes the noise more when its on a cold idle than after its hot... chuff chuff chufflle..... chuff chuff chuffle...

Lets all do
the cam walk shuffle

[BadBillyB]

Plus you'd have to make the spacers as well.

After reading BadBillyB's post describing his cam walk problem, that's not at all what mine is doing really. I guess the best way to describe it is that it kind of sounds like dieseling because it ticks (knocks) at low rpm's while getting on the trottle. As soon as the RPM's are hight enough (around 3800) the ticking quiets down. What else could it be?

This is a symptom of excessive ignition timing advance. Check your timing. Also carefully inspect your timing advance mechanism for binding. It should rotate by hand counter-clockwise with some effort (spring loaded) and snap back when you let go of it. Check the springs on the back for stretch. If all looks OK, try retarding the timing and see if the noise goes away. This will tell you if you are on the right track. Is it possible the top of the pistons are all carboned up ???.....Theres a remedy for that too......Billy

[ddaniels]

I'm pretty darn sure the tops of the pistons are carboned up. From the looks of the valves they have to be. I'll check into the timing too. Thanks for the tips.

[Dogma]

Reading this with interest, as I have the same symptoms.

[ddaniels]

I don't know if it's because I now have a radio and can't hear it as much, but I decided to fill it up this time with premium gas and the ticking doesn't seem to be as loud now. I did turn the radio off to listen too. Hmmm.

[north49]

OK....I just did the cam float repair mod as described by Ian Grant. The bike has 80 K miles on it and now sounds like new. Thanks again Ian for the brilliant diagnosis and repair of this problem.
I did the mod without removing the cams or head.....just the caps. If you can't do this mod yourself, then it would probably be cheaper to buy a used head and cams.
In any case, it's some kinda wonderfull to get rid of the really horrible rattle in an other wise great engine.

[TheCafeKid]

I don't know if it's because I now have a radio and can't hear it as much, but I decided to fill it up this time with premium gas and the ticking doesn't seem to be as loud now. I did turn the radio off to listen too. Hmmm.

If, in fact, premium made the ticking go away, or less, then I would definately suspect your timing/advance as a possible problem. It's either slightly retarded, or your advancer is sticking (if it has mech advance) or your ignitor is messed (if it's electronic advance). It's worth a look either way, running premium is sort of expensive, and fixing the bike might cost nothing. If you find that your mech advance is crapped let me know, I have a box full of em..

[blowerbike]

If, in fact, premium made the ticking go away, or less, then I would definately suspect your timing/advance as a possible problem. It's either slightly retarded, or your advancer is sticking (if it has mech advance) or your ignitor is messed (if it's electronic advance). It's worth a look either way, running premium is sort of expensive, and fixing the bike might cost nothing. If you find that your mech advance is crapped let me know, I have a box full of em..

carbon man....lots of carbon.

[ddaniels]

Best way to get rid of the carbon??

Not sure if the advance is mechanical or electronic. I'll be checking on that.

Glad to hear your mod got rid of your noises north49! I wish I had the machinery to do my own work like that.

[north49]

Hi ddaniels...... it's really quick and easy to check the cam end float. If you check it, at least you'll know and then deal with it (or not). If you have a high mileage engine and the rattle seems to be in the top end then end float is the probable source.
cheers

[Dogma]

Best way to get rid of the carbon??

Not sure if the advance is mechanical or electronic. I'll be checking on that.

Glad to hear your mod got rid of your noises north49! I wish I had the machinery to do my own work like that.

I've heard it said that injecting small amounts of water into the intake of the running engine will blast the carbon out. Something about how it flashes to steam blasting it off was the explanation, but I suspect it's more of a chemical thing.

Lotsa hits on Google. I'm not sure of the best way to actually get the water in there on our bikes. I saw one YouTube video of squirting water into the brake booster vacuum line on a Honda Civic. Perhaps we could do this to the crankcase vent nipple on the air box.

[Steve]

I'm not sure of the best way to actually get the water in there on our bikes. I saw one YouTube video of squirting water into the brake booster vacuum line on a Honda Civic. Perhaps we could do this to the crankcase vent nipple on the air box.

How about an adapter into the sync port on the manifold?

.

[ddaniels]

I've heard it said that injecting small amounts of water into the intake of the running engine will blast the carbon out. Something about how it flashes to steam blasting it off was the explanation, but I suspect it's more of a chemical thing.

Lotsa hits on Google. I'm not sure of the best way to actually get the water in there on our bikes. I saw one YouTube video of squirting water into the brake booster vacuum line on a Honda Civic. Perhaps we could do this to the crankcase vent nipple on the air box.

Hmmmm. I don't know. Sounds kinda risky to me. Maybe I'll just try running some more Seafoam through a few more tanks.

North49, my bike has just over 5000 on the clock, so not high mileage at all. I'll take the top apart again at the end of the season and see what I can see, and if I can do anything about it.

[tkent02]

How about an adapter into the sync port on the manifold?

.

Yep, use the same tubes you use to synch the carbs. Go for a ride, get the engine good and hot, open a little fishbowl valve letting in a trickle of water, run a gallon or so through it while you cruise down the road. Clean as a whistle inside. Easy stuff.

If you have ever taken apart a liquid cooled engine with a coolant leak into the combustion chamber, you know how well it works.