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    Clutch Basket Inspection

    '83 GS1100E

    Like other "engine noise" posts, I'm chasing down engine rattle noises that sound like top end but seem to be "lower front of motor" noises. By process of elimination, I'm starting with clutch basket. Although this bike has 38K on the clock, someone's been in there before. The center nut is new and the washer looks to have been straightened and rebent a couple of times. Actually, it's pretty knarled up. Could use to be replaced.

    Currently I'm checking the clutch basket to make sure the backing plate/springs are not worn. I haven't removed the center clutch hub nut yet but have removed all clutch plates and steels. Basket has very little play and when turning it against the motor clockwise and counter clockwise, there doesn't seem to be any play in the springs either. Is this sufficient to say the basket is OK?

    If I had a way to lock the inner and outer clutch hub and basket, I'd go ahead and pull the nut to see for sure.

    Suggestions??

    Wheatdog

    #2
    with little or no play on the basket, and considering the mileage, i would say the basket is ok. make sure the centre nut is tight
    1978 GS1085.

    Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by wheatdog View Post
      If I had a way to lock the inner and outer clutch hub and basket, I'd go ahead and pull the nut to see for sure.Suggestions??
      Impact gun (wrench)

      82 1100 EZ (red)

      "You co-opting words of KV only thickens the scent of your BS. A thief and a putter-on of airs most foul. " JEEPRUSTY

      Comment


        #4
        Agemax,

        There might be come confusion of terms from the colonies to the homeland. By 38K I meant 38 thousand miles. Are you thinking I posted 38 kilometers? Anyhoo, it's a pretty high mileage bike but there's been work done to it. Specifically I can see the clutch basket has been out or replaced. Guess the smartest thing to do do is remove it. I'll build the same type clutch locking tool I do for my vintage BSAs. I take two steels and two clutch plates and bolt them together. then put her in gear and stand on the brake whilst putting reverse torque on afore mentioned bigass nut. I've got tons of BSA clutch plates but no spare Zuki stuff. Guess I'll advertise for what I need elsewhere on this site.


        Wheadog

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by wheatdog View Post
          Agemax,

          There might be come confusion of terms from the colonies to the homeland. By 38K I meant 38 thousand miles. Are you thinking I posted 38 kilometers? Anyhoo, it's a pretty high mileage bike but there's been work done to it. Specifically I can see the clutch basket has been out or replaced. Guess the smartest thing to do do is remove it. I'll build the same type clutch locking tool I do for my vintage BSAs. I take two steels and two clutch plates and bolt them together. then put her in gear and stand on the brake whilst putting reverse torque on afore mentioned bigass nut. I've got tons of BSA clutch plates but no spare Zuki stuff. Guess I'll advertise for what I need elsewhere on this site.


          Wheadog
          Dog, Motion Pro offers a "clutch Holder" tool for @ $20.00, which is basicly a large set of vice grips w/ 90 degree tangs.
          which not only allow removal, but make it possible to torque nut back to spec, on the way out.....The suz. clutch basket /primary drive set, incorperates peened rivets & different guaged springs for power transfer.wear here is caused more from hard launches than mileage.. do yourself a favor, & look. all springs should make good contact within their cages, (typical wear in a noisy basket will have slack/rattle at heavy guage springs.) the last time I looked, there were 7 updates on the stock basket, & APE, Vance & Hines & others offered HD kits. as well as "billet" baskets. I went with a "stock" new basket rather than play the games with welding rivets & having basket "balanced" luck G

          Comment


            #6
            i know what you mean Wheadog. 38000 miles is nothing if the engine has been looked after. my gs1000e had 44k when i pulled the engine apart and the clutch was perfect. i only rebuilt it because i uprated the performance
            1978 GS1085.

            Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!

            Comment


              #7
              I am an idiot!!

              Only need to lock clutch to hold engine drive shaft for backing off alternator rotor. Not necessary to loosen clutch center hub nut. Just put bike in gear, stand on brake and loosen same. DOH!

              Wheatdog the Senile

              Comment


                #8
                38k mile on a large GS engine with helical gears is 3 lifetimes.
                there's no games when it comes to having a heavy duty backing plate kit installed.
                its the life or death of your engine and maybe you.
                if you granny your big GS around and never rev to red line or power shift then stay stock.
                i had a friend stop by one day and ask me to ride his GS1000 w/ an 1100 16v. engine.
                he said "see what you think..it runs really good"
                i didn't get to the corner and i had the basket sticking through the cases...oil on the back tire and cuts through my pants(right inner thigh) from the engine case shrapnel.
                pieces came out from the top and bottom of the cases.
                so if you drive like miss daisy you will be ok..
                if you ever wind her up..
                be forewarned!
                this was around 92/93 so i have a few of these engines under my belt and i know what will and will not last depending on your riding habits.

                Comment


                  #9
                  just use an impact on the clutch hub nut..
                  its not rocket science....
                  just let the impact hammer for a few seconds when tightening the nut.
                  same goes for the alt. rotor.
                  throw any torque figures out the door..
                  just get both really tight.

                  Comment

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