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I did an oil change, filled the correct amount of oil, and now in gear when the bike is cold it pulls the bike forward even with the clutch in. </runonsentence> I was wondering if anyone else has had this problem. I am not sure how to adjust the clutch or how to tell if it is the clutch. I did notice that it also slips when warm. It has a barnett clutch in it installed before the bike was stored (approx 20 years)
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What kind of oil did you use? -
mobil clean 5k, 10w40.Comment
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Does the oil have a JASO MA certification? If not, I'd dump it and replace with one that does. Rotella T6 synthetic (5w40) is one inexpensive option that carries the wet clutch rating.Comment
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It does not. Scale of 1 to screwed. where would you say I am? been in it about 1 week.Comment
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Sounds like its to clean of an oil for the wet clutch application.
taken from the mobil site
Can I use Mobil Clean 5000 in my motorcycle or my boat engine?
For four-cycle motorcycles, we recommend Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40 and Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W-50. These products are designed specifically for four-cycle motorcycles, including wet clutch applications. If your boat engine calls for an API SM, SL, SJ, SH or SG rated oil, you can use Mobil Clean 5000. However, we recommend that you follow the recommended oil change interval in your owner's manual.
I dont know but heard people had to remove the clutch plates if they got stuck together from using the wrong oils... but I would start with dumping the oil and getting something more appropriate in there. Been 100xs of threads and debates on what is best but the rule I was told to go by is to look on the label and make sure it the bottom half of the circle is empty. (doesnt have the "enegry conserving" part)
Last edited by Guest; 08-31-2010, 02:30 PM.Comment
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First order of business is changing the oil out and putting in some proper oil. Doesn't have to be motorcycle specific, but it really should have the JASO MA rating. Lots of oils fit this bill, and everybody has their preference. You may find that after you change it out, operation goes back to normal and all is well. Worst case is replacing the clutch disks. I've never done it, but from descriptions it doesn't sound like too miserable a repair.Comment
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could it be your cable is too tight? loosen the adjustments at both ends until the clutch begins to engage at about halfway through the lever motion.Comment
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He's getting both slip on the highway and drag at a standstill. Both occurred after the oil change without touching the adjustments, based on his previous statements. Doesn't sound like an adjustment in either direction is the answer.Comment
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you know what i don't like about his statement?
he said "barnett" clutch installed"
these are trash/junk/garbage ect...
they are aggressive when stopped or moving slow and if you install lighter(stock) springs they can slip while moving/powering up/twisting the throttle.
i doubt that his clutch was ever 100% correct.
as a matter of fact i know it wasn't.Comment
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Good point.Comment
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what kind of performance clutch would you recommend?Originally posted by blowerbike View PostComment
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And I didn't choose the clutch. full story: I found the bike in a collapsed garage. it had been sitting for 20 years. i found it, cleaned it off, dropped in a battery, new plugs. more gas, and it fired. Then found the original owner and he gave me the full history. Kerker megaphone, heavy duty rear springs, and a barnett clutch, with bigger mikunis and cone filters. he had previously installed the clutch. it also has a new either second or third gear from a newer gs1100.Comment
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OEM/factory Suzuki clutches work great for stock bikes and can hold up to 500 horsepower.Originally posted by midnightcafe View Post
OEM is the only way to go.
also..
barnett plates will chop up/cut your clutch basket to pieces because of the steel backings used.Comment
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so now what?Comment
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