Clutch not engaging or disengaging

[blowerbike]

inch pound inch pound inch pound........................
common mistake on the spring bolts.
they only needed snugged.
************80 INCH POUNDS*************
i'm sure you used a foot pound tork wrench.
anyways..
sounds like you may be on your way to fingering it out.


*******anything other than OEM is junk as far as clutch plates are concerned******

[dluszcz]

Ok. Can I use brake cleaner on the fibers to clean them up? They've been sitting in my garage the whole summer. I used the spare engine as a trial for taking out the clutch plates.

I'll definitely put the OEMs back in.

[blowerbike]

i have never used chemicals on fibers before..thats just me.
wipe them off and throw them in a pan of clean oil should be fine.

[dluszcz]

I still have the oil in the pie pan I used earlier today to soak the bte fibers. I'll just put them in there.

Can I use the brake cleaner on the metal plates and the basket?

[blowerbike]

I still have the oil in the pie pan I used earlier today to soak the bte fibers. I'll just put them in there.

Can I use the brake cleaner on the metal plates and the basket?

of course...carb cleaner/brake clean... anything you like.

[BadBillyB]

So, I must do this after I finish building it then. I don't have the gas tank on yet cuz I'm still rattle can painting it.

Maybe everything is well and we'll find out when I put the tank on. I thought I could adjust it without running.

Maybe I'll toss the tank on quickly just to see if it works. I have a little gas left in the lawnmower tank that I can put in my bike.

You can adjust it with out the motor running. You just cant test it w/o the motor running. If you put the bike on the center stand and put it in gear and pull the clutch in all the way, turning the tire by hand will make it feel like its not disengaging because of the stiction of the fiber plates. You may be worried for nothing. I am suprised BlowerBike didn't connect BTE to Barnett Tool and Equipment or he would have told you they are garbage. Use the OEM Suzuki plates. Get an inch lb. torque wrench. Ditch the Haynes manual and get a Clymer manual. With the clutch lever pulled half way in, the release arm for the clutch should be 90 degrees to the threaded part of the cases where the cable attaches. The release arm when relaxed should be pointing toward the front of the rear brake disc (approximately)....Also if you broke off a clutch spring bolt from over torqueing it (with the wrong tool), the broken piece should be easy to remove from the center hub....Billy

[blowerbike]

You can adjust it with out the motor running. You just cant test it w/o the motor running. If you put the bike on the center stand and put it in gear and pull the clutch in all the way, turning the tire by hand will make it feel like its not disengaging because of the stiction of the fiber plates. You may be worried for nothing. I am suprised BlowerBike didn't connect BTE to Barnett Tool and Equipment or he would have told you they are garbage. Use the OEM Suzuki plates. Get an inch lb. torque wrench. Ditch the Haynes manual and get a Clymer manual. With the clutch lever pulled half way in, the release arm for the clutch should be 90 degrees to the threaded part of the cases where the cable attaches. The release arm when relaxed should be pointing toward the front of the rear brake disc (approximately)....Also if you broke off a clutch spring bolt from over torqueing it (with the wrong tool), the broken piece should be easy to remove from the center hub....Billy

BTE...
ahhhhhh
i never really put it together (barnett) as i'm sometimes confused that people have problems with simple things.
every clutch and every clutch adjustment is different for the individual.
the 2mm free play thing would be for a bike that is the same as new in every way.
i also didn't know that he had a project that wasn't runny yet.
that really blew my mind as to why he was questioning the adjustment before it was time to pop it in gear.

[dluszcz]

Sorry for the confusion. I guess the bike not running part was a VERY significant piece of info to leave out.

I did have the tank mounted and ran it about 4 miles around the block trying to free the plates. The next morning, I realized that I didn't have a good seal for the petcock and pull the tank back off. At that time, I figured it was a good time to repaint it since the 1st paint job didn't turn out as expected.

So, basically, I will not know if I did a good job until I get it running, correct?

Attached to this post is the thumbnail of the clutch cable at the engine threads. I can only post 1 pic at a time, sorry.

[dluszcz]

This is with the handlebar lever relaxed.

[dluszcz]

This is with the handlebar lever pulled in.

I previewed each post so I hope the thumbnails are visible to everyone. I had issues the last time I posted pics.

[blowerbike]

needs to be outwards another 1 or 2 teeth.
near even with clutch cover gasket.

same plain as the clutch cover gasket.

[dluszcz]

Here's my adjustment per blowerbike. This is with the handlebar lever relaxed.

[dluszcz]

Here it is with the handlebar lever pulled in.

[blowerbike]

maybe one more tooth outwards?
somebody else that has one of these in front of them needs to chime in.

[dluszcz]

OK, going back out to try to get it one more out. The cable wouldn't give me much more. I'll tug a little harder to get what I need to do this. Any chance that I could possibly snap the cable down the road if I make it too tight?