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As the title states, I am going to adjust the valves on my 81 GS750E. As far as I know, it's never been done on this bike since it has less than 3k original miles. I removed all the bolts and breather cover but am still unable to remove the valve cover. The cover came loose no problem, a couple of soft taps with a rubber mallet was all it took. The issue is the hump in the center on the front of the cover hits the frame. I have tried wiggling, tapping, and every other method to get it passed the frame with no luck. My next guess is to unbolt all but one of the rear bolts and try to swing the engine in the frame to gain the needed clearance to get the cover off. Is this a common issue on the '81 model 750s? I printed and read the valve adjustment guide on Basscliff's site, and it sounds like I should be able to remove the cover without all this added hassle. Or do I not need to be afraid of being too rough with this thing? I'm doing my best to refrain from grabbing a pry bar.
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Last edited by Guest; 09-20-2010, 10:05 PM. -
IT WILL come out..
remove from the ignition side(right).
keep trying... -
Thanks, I'll try either side! It's just that clearance issue. Guess it's normally a bugger to get off huh?Comment
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Hi,
Be sure to take the breather off of the top of the valve cover to give you more room to work with. Also, I think your motor is a 16-valve motor so you will have the "screw and jam nut" adjustment, no shims. Be sure you are using the correct valve adjustment guide for your bike.
Thank you for your indulgence,
BassCliffComment
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I have an 80 model 750 - same bike/motor. I managed to wiggle mine out of the right hand side without removing the breather cover. Keep trying it will definately come out
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You won't need to take the breather off. I don't remember having a problem clearing the frame on mine. Frame hasn't been modified has it?'81 GS750E - Gone but fondly remembered.
'03 DR650
sigpicComment
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I just pulled the valve cover off of my 82 750 last night and it slid right out without having to remove the breather. I have the carbs off though so I'm not sure if that makes a big, if any, difference at all.Comment
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did my valves two weeks ago 82 750E and didnt have to remove breather cover either.Comment
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Hi,
Yes, it seems you guys with the 750s have a little more room to work with when removing your valve cover. I always have to take the breather off before the valve cover will slide out. Even then it's a very tight fit.
Hey, how's it going there Mr. 81GS750?
Thank you for your indulgence,
BassCliffComment
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Got that sinking feeling
Ok, I got the cover off. Ended up removing engine bolts, and let the engine rock down to gain the added clearance. The issue was never the breather cover, but the front hump that covers the exhaust cam gear. I went over the frame closely and cannot see any signs that the frame is or has ever been damaged or repaired. I do not know the history of this motorcycle. I ran the VIN number and it came up as a 1981 GS750/E. The engine number is GS75X-133597. The "GS75X" would indicate a 750 engine correct? Anyway, everything looked nice and clean under the cover until I saw the tachometer drive gear on the exhaust cam. It has been nearly ground away, I mean it's chewed up pretty bad. I did notice when I removed the tach gear assembly from the cover that it had some nicks in the gear, but still seemed to be ok. I did not find much in the way of metal shavings under the gear or in the puddle of oil under the camshaft. I may end up pulling the oil pan to see how much shavings are there.
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Originally posted by 81GS750 View PostOk, I got the cover off. Ended up removing engine bolts, and let the engine rock down to gain the added clearance. The issue was never the breather cover, but the front hump that covers the exhaust cam gear. I went over the frame closely and cannot see any signs that the frame is or has ever been damaged or repaired. I do not know the history of this motorcycle. I ran the VIN number and it came up as a 1981 GS750/E. The engine number is GS75X-133597. The "GS75X" would indicate a 750 engine correct? Anyway, everything looked nice and clean under the cover until I saw the tachometer drive gear on the exhaust cam. It has been nearly ground away, I mean it's chewed up pretty bad. I did notice when I removed the tach gear assembly from the cover that it had some nicks in the gear, but still seemed to be ok. I did not find much in the way of metal shavings under the gear or in the puddle of oil under the camshaft. I may end up pulling the oil pan to see how much shavings are there.
looks like a good time to throw a set of 83 1100E cams in her..
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stupid question. What's the benefit of doing so, more lift? What else would have to be done to the engine to do this?Originally posted by blowerbike View Postlooks like a good time to throw a set of 83 1100E cams in her..
No, I'm not tearing apart my '83 for cams
Last edited by Guest; 09-21-2010, 07:52 PM.Comment
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just depends on if your tach gear is buggered enough to destroy another tach drive.Originally posted by 81GS750 View Poststupid question. What's the benefit of doing so, more lift? What else would have to be done to the engine to do this?
No, I'm not tearing apart my '83 for cams
lift/duration should be larger on the 83 1100E cams.
my point was if you was going to replace an exhaust cam...upgrade to the larger cams for little more cash.
these cams bolt in...no other mods needed unless a person wanted to degree the 83 cams for maximum gains.
its not like i have 2 sets of the 83 cams laying around...ha!Comment
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Wish I could get a good enough picture of the tach gear, but it's shot. I'll probably replace the cams and the tach driven gear too. I'll shoot you a PM on 1100 camsComment
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