Changing out Chain

[cowboyup3371]

Although I haven't bought the chain and new sprockets yet, I took the opportunity to take things apart today to make sure what other tools I need to buy. Everything came apart pretty smoothly and I noticed I have some major cleaning to do. But I have some questions as to some things I found. I was surprised at the amount of grease, grime, and dirt I found inside of the cover and on the side of the transmission. Looks like I have alot of cleaning to do.

First, I found some o-rings inside the side cover here as well as a bunch of grime. Does anything look out of place or will I need to replace anything here?



Second, this spacer is loose between the rear of the engine and the frame and what I think was the source of alot of rattling going down the highway. It's loose in such a way that it seems too big for whatever rod it is sitting on. (Above my gold pen) Is there a correct size for this spacer and can I remove the bolt/rod that slides through there without causing the back side of the engine to drop away on me?



What would cause these screws to become corroded like two of them did? I'm thinking of replacing them with allen heads.



There's alot of rusted grease both in this hole and on the post; how much new stuff should I put on when I redo this? Is it just the regular white lithium grease or do I need something else?



Here's the front of the chain and sprocket. I intend to do the clip master link setup again so can I reuse the same clip or do I need to buy a new one? Does anyone see anything else I need to worry about besides cleaning everything up?



Thanks all.

[Bladerunner]

Hey Cowboy,

Just wipe out the front sprocket cover with a rag you will end up throwing away. Don't get carried away with cleaning the inside of that cover; it will just get grimy again very fast.

That spacer is the wrong one. The inside diameter of that spacer should be just big enough to let the rod/shaft (outer diameter) through. It may be hard to find, used, just the correct spacer. You could have one machined at a local machine shop, or order a new one from Zookie using the microfiche??

Those phillips-head screws just corrode over time. Nothing else to it. Dissimilar metals coming in contact, they will corrode. Go to eGay and buy SS allen-head bolts for the engine covers, I just replaced all of mine. You'll thank yourself later. When installing the new SS bolts, lightly coat the threads with copper grease before installing. It will prevent gaulling and corrosion later if you ever need to remove them. Do this with any/all SS fasteners.

Just use any hi-temp grease as referenced in your fourth pic.

Do NOT reuse the clip from the master link. Always buy a new one, and install it with the open end toward the rear of the bike/chain!

[tkent02]

I probably have that spacer, at least if it's the same size as the one on an older 550.
Use anti-seize on all steel fasteners threaded into aluminum to prevent the galvanic corrosion. Stainless steel is not the best choice for screws, and neither are Phillip's heads. Allen heads, or the 8mm hex head screws used on the later bikes are better. I have a great connection for screws, the whole set will only be a buck or two for high quality fasteners. Might as well replace them on the clutch cover and stator cover too. Give me the screw lengths, I can send them to you with that spacer.
The new chain will include a master link and clip, they are brand specific. Better yet buy an endless chain, you need to remove the swing arm to grease the bearings anyway. You are using a sealed chain, O ring or X ring chain, right? Don't be tempted to use cheap aluminum rear sprockets, they wear quickly and then they eat the chain, then the chain eats the front sprocket... Get good stuff, it will last a long time. I don't know what that fourth picture is, shifter linkage? Clean it and grease it with new grease.
Clean the heck out of that area where the clutch pushrod mechanism is, take it out and get rid of the old grease and redo it with new clean grease, then adjust it properly.

[cowboyup3371]

I probably have that spacer, at least if it's the same size as the one on an older 550.
Use anti-seize on all steel fasteners threaded into aluminum to prevent the galvanic corrosion. Stainless steel is not the best choice for screws, and neither are Phillip's heads. Allen heads, or the 8mm hex head screws used on the later bikes are better. I have a great connection for screws, the whole set will only be a buck or two for high quality fasteners. Might as well replace them on the clutch cover and stator cover too. Give me the screw lengths, I can send them to you with that spacer.

Thanks Tom. The screw lengths are based on the order of the picture from left to right in inches:

3 1/2
3 1/2
3 1/8
3 1/2
1 1/8
1 1/8

The new chain will include a master link and clip, they are brand specific. Better yet buy an endless chain, you need to remove the swing arm to grease the bearings anyway. You are using a sealed chain, O ring or X ring chain, right? Don't be tempted to use cheap aluminum rear sprockets, they wear quickly and then they eat the chain, then the chain eats the front sprocket... Get good stuff, it will last a long time. I don't know what that fourth picture is, shifter linkage? Clean it and grease it with new grease.

The new chain I'm buying only comes with a rivet link so I have to buy the clip separately. But here's the sprockets I'm ordering from Z1:

Front:

530 (JTF513 series) 15T front sprocket EM95-47315
-----------
15T Front Sprocket for 530 chain. Fits Kawasaki KZ550 A1-A4, C1-C4, D1, H1-H2, KZ650 (77-80), KZ750B KZ750G ZX750F KZ750H ZX750J ZX750K ZX750L ZX750M ZX900B.
Fits Z1, KZ900 & KZ1000 when converting to 530 chain.

.Fits Suzuki GS400 GS425 GS450 RG-500 GS550 GSF600 GSX600 RF600 GS650 GS700 GS750 ES GS750D GSXR750 (82-97) GSX750 VZ 800 RF900 TL1000S TL1000R GSXR1000 SV1000 GSX1100 GSXR1100 GSF1200 GSXR1300

Rear:

530 (JTR816 series) 50T Rear Sprocket

EM95-57150

OEM: 64511-47600 -

50T Rear Steel Sprocket for 530 chain. 6-bolt with a 76mm center

Fits Suzuki GS550EC/EN/ET/ED/EF/EG/ESD/ESE/ESF/ESG/LN/LT/LX/LD/LE/LF/LG/MX/MZ/TX GR650XD GS650EX/EZ XN85 GS700EF/ESF GS750ED GSX-R750L/M/N/WP/WR/WS GT750K/L/M/A/B GSX-R1100K/L/M/N/WP/WR/WS/WT/WV/WW GSX1100FJ/FK-P GSF1200SK-3/SS-SK3

and Chain:

530 Chain - RK 110 link 'X' Ring

LA530XSOZ1-110

-----------

RK X-ring chain provides superior wear characteristics over standard O-ring chain. The X pattern of their O-ring traps more lubricant inside the chain and keeps more road grime out.

30% longer life than conventional O-ring chain.

Tensile strength of 9200lbs/foot. Recommended for bikes up to 1000cc.

These chains come with a rivet link. Rivet links require a chain riveting tool to join the chain. See related items below for the riveting tool.

Also available is a split link for these chains. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO USE OTHER BRAND SPLIT LINKS. See related items below for the split link. While more convenient, it should be noted the chain manufacturers always recommend using the rivet type link.

Fits Honda FT500 (82-83) CBR600F (87-90) VF700 VFR700 VF750 (83-86) VF1000 (84-86) CBR1100XX (97-03) Kawasaki H2/H2A (H2B/C uses 120 Link) ZX600 except R (90-93) ZX750 Ninja (87-90) ZX750 ZX-7 & ZX-7R (91-95) ZX1000 ( (88-90) ZX1100 (90-01) ZZR1200R (02-04) ZRX1200 (01-04) Also Z1 & KZ900 530 chain conversion. Suzuki GT500 (75-77) GS550B/C/N/ET/LZ (77-82) GSXR1000 (01-04) SV1000S (03-04) Yamaha FZ750 ((85-88) FJ1100 FJ1200

Please let me know if you need me to resend my address. Thank you.

[Rover]

Cowboy, Are you saying Z1 doesn't sell an endless chain or did you just happen to already buy your chain?
Reason I'm asking is I'm about to buy a chain and sprockets.

[cowboyup3371]

I didn't see one for my bike but I also wasn't looking for an endless one. I'll look for it a little later since I won't be buying my chain until at least Wednesday.

[GabrielGoes]

speaking of chains guys i can hardly back my bike up anywhere because the kinks get so locked up! regular riding you can hear the kinky chain crunching all over the place... i gotta make a bit more cash so i can get a new chain

[Curly]

The purists might hang me, but I went with a non o-ring chain. The packaging says its for 400cc or less, but I have no idea why, my '85 700 isn't exactly a power house. For roughly $25 it was worth the savings, and way better than my old stretched out o-ring chain. I think I could make it about 4" longer when I pulled on it. Made setting the chain tension almost impossible.

[tkent02]

speaking of chains guys i can hardly back my bike up anywhere because the kinks get so locked up! regular riding you can hear the kinky chain crunching all over the place... i gotta make a bit more cash so i can get a new chain

And you're still riding it this way?

[GabrielGoes]

And you're still riding it this way?

... yes i am actually i plan on commuting on it for atleast 2 weeks untill i get my paycheck.. do u think its gonna break?

[cowboyup3371]

I wouldn't want to be on it if it did.

[Kaiser Sosei]

... yes i am actually i plan on commuting on it for atleast 2 weeks untill i get my paycheck.. do u think its gonna break?

If it does you will either:

1) get lucky and the chain just falls off the bike and you have no power coasting to a stop.
2) get less lucky and the chain get sent through the cases and you coast to a stop.
3) get even less lucky and the chain wraps itself misc parts of the bike locking up the rear tire throwing you down for a nice slide on the pavement


How lucky do you feel?

[tkent02]

Or you could be unlucky and you high side, or have the chain sever your leg.
Chains and sprockets are not a good place to push your luck. Park it.

[Suzuki_Don]

Or you could be unlucky and you high side, or have the chain sever your leg.
Chains and sprockets are not a good place to push your luck. Park it.

C'mon Tom, you take all the FUN out of life don't you. You know cowboys like excitement in a big way.

[tkent02]

No, the cowboy knows better.