Top End Noob

If you hand cranked the engine before turning it with the starter, you would have noticed (hopefully) that it got real hard to turn and didnt turn it anymore. Reset (and doublecheck) the timing, and do another compression test, AFTER you hand crank it.
You could do a leakdown test with the cams out if you had a leakdown tester.

I'll watch those clearances then. Fingers crossed.

[Nessism]

If the valves are bent your valve clearances will be really big because the valve won't close. Hope this isn't the case after all you've been though with this engine.

Great.

I got the top end rebuilt, valve clearances into spec, carbs fixed and installed, Dyna ignition into place, and the damn thing still won't start.

The starter motor turned fine, but it would not catch. Spark and battery were good. So I checked compression. It sucked. About 30 psi across the cylinders.

So I pulled the valve cover again. Lo and behold, my timing was way off.

At this point I can redo the timing, though I have no idea how it got thrown off. Given that I have hand cranked the motor and turned it with the starter several times trying to start it, what are the odds that I have bent valves in the process. I really don't want to pull the head again. Is there a way to check for bent valves without actually pulling them out again?

Would I tap in at the same bolt size or go bigger to clear out any stripped/crossed threads?

I am a tapping virgin, so be gentle.

Use oil on the clean tap when you go in, clean the tap and the cleaned up holes with brake cleaner and compressed air to remove the debris on each hole and anti-seize on the clean bolts or studs that you install.

Daniel

Same tap, you're just cleaning up the threads. Make sure you use anti-seize when you put the bolts back in.

Would I tap in at the same bolt size or go bigger to clear out any stripped/crossed threads?

I am a tapping virgin, so be gentle.

Just re-tap the holes. You should be able to go in 24-25mm.

Daniel

Would I tap in at the same bolt size or go bigger to clear out any stripped/crossed threads?

I am a tapping virgin, so be gentle.

Top end is rebuilt. Now I need to change the oil, re-install the carbs, add some fuel and start her up.

Then I will figure out what else is wrong with the bike no doubt.

Update:

Got the cylinder head on and the chain timed. That took three attempts because I am dumb.

Checked the new valve clearances, and two of them are too tight. So I am waiting on some new shims.

Put the exhaust back on, but ran into some trouble there. Basically, some of the exhaust bolts do not like the threads on that head. They came out of the head without much difficulty, but when I reinstalled the pipes, 2-3 of the bolts get really tight early. I checked the bolts, and their threads look fine. So I fear that the head has gotten cross-threaded or something.

After pairing the bolts as best I could, the exhaust is on there, but I cannot properly torque some of the bolts for fear of further damaging the threads on that head.

Any ideas? Do I need to bore out those threads?

Just re-tap the holes. You should be able to go in 24-25mm.

Daniel

Update:

Got the cylinder head on and the chain timed. That took three attempts because I am dumb.

Checked the new valve clearances, and two of them are too tight. So I am waiting on some new shims.

Put the exhaust back on, but ran into some trouble there. Basically, some of the exhaust bolts do not like the threads on that head. They came out of the head without much difficulty, but when I reinstalled the pipes, 2-3 of the bolts get really tight early. I checked the bolts, and their threads look fine. So I fear that the head has gotten cross-threaded or something.

After pairing the bolts as best I could, the exhaust is on there, but I cannot properly torque some of the bolts for fear of further damaging the threads on that head.

Any ideas? Do I need to bore out those threads?

OK- Gearhead is a friggin magician. I cannot fathon for a second how this could be done by one person other than Otto Octavius.

With a buddy's helping, we finally got that beast into place. There was cursing, followed by rejoicing.

I put the head on to rest on the block and press the gaskets into place until I can get back to the project. This weekend, I can move forward with installing the head gaskets and head, and doing the timing chain, valve adjustments, reinstalling the exhaust, vacuum synching the carbs (replaced all intake and carb o-rings, and re-jetted for pods/4-1 pipes last Fall, and fully cleaned twice, etc.), and cleaning and re-oiling the pods.

Holy crap, I might even start this bastard!

Having a buddy to help would make it much easier, but I dont have any friends

I just got done assembling an 8 valve head yesterday. I made a compressor after watching Steve's video. I did not have any pvc handy so I uses a rigid conduit coupling with a window cut into it. The one I used was about 7/8" so there was some wiggle room in the valve bore. Putting the keepers on took a minute or two once the spring was compressed. I think if the compressor was tight in the bore I would not have been able to put the keepers on as easily. Once I put one keeper on, I could shift the valve spring slightly to one side and slip the other keeper in. When I released the C clamp, the keepers aligned and locked into place.

OK- Gearhead is a friggin magician. I cannot fathon for a second how this could be done by one person other than Otto Octavius.

With a buddy's helping, we finally got that beast into place. There was cursing, followed by rejoicing.

I put the head on to rest on the block and press the gaskets into place until I can get back to the project. This weekend, I can move forward with installing the head gaskets and head, and doing the timing chain, valve adjustments, reinstalling the exhaust, vacuum synching the carbs (replaced all intake and carb o-rings, and re-jetted for pods/4-1 pipes last Fall, and fully cleaned twice, etc.), and cleaning and re-oiling the pods.

Holy crap, I might even start this bastard!

Cripes.

Got the rings on and the pistons attached.

How the hell do I get the cylinders back on? Got hose clamps to compress the rings, but I still need about 7 hands to put everything in place. Is there any way to do this solo??

I just installed my cylinders back on with the engine still in the bike by myself.
A few tips,
Do the middle two first, Somehow you have to keep the crank from turning, either with a block of wood or putting the bike in gear. Fully tighten the clamps on the middle two, lower the block, line up the pistons to the bores, then slowly loosen the clamps and tap on the top of the block, watching to make sure the pistons are going in straight and that the rings arent getting snagged, use a small screwdriver if needed to poke the rings into the bores.
Do not force it, if it doesnt go easily, find out why first.
Good luck.

Cripes.

Got the rings on and the pistons attached.

How the hell do I get the cylinders back on? Got hose clamps to compress the rings, but I still need about 7 hands to put everything in place. Is there any way to do this solo??