Top End Noob

[kirkn]

Here's a thread on my own efforts. The last page of the thread has some pictures of my efforts. Getting the keepers back in once the springs are compressed was a one-shot, 30-second task. I used small needle-nosed pliers to drop 'em in, and a tiny jeweler's type screwdriver to poke 'em around, if needed. Then, back off the C-clamp and they wedge right into place.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=161316&page=5

Good luck with 'em.

Kirk

[MisterCinders]

Nice photo essay.

I think my notched sprocket is too small for the task. Probably need to fashion a better piece out of pvc like yours with a better viewing area for fiddling with the keepers.

BTW - not only did I neglect to order the clip ring fasteners for the pistons (which are now en route), but I pulled another bonehead maneuver. First try at reassembling the valve confirmed that a 10mm sprocket and extension fits the oil seal perfectly for installation. If only I'd put the lower spring seat in place before testing that out. So I have a couple spare oil seals coming with those clip rings.

[MisterCinders]

Also, while I wait for parts, I am dutifully cleaning the mating areas for the gaskets. Scraped out the old gasket material, but I cannot get that shiny clean metal shown in other pics. The gasket scraper (razor blade) will probably scratch into the aluminum, so I don't want to be too aggressive. What else should I use to finish cleaning up those surfaces?

[cowboyup3371]

I've used 400 grit paper and have heard some saying 600 - 800 paper will do you fine. Just go easy and use a sanding block not your fingers.

[MisterCinders]

Cripes.

Got the rings on and the pistons attached.

How the hell do I get the cylinders back on? Got hose clamps to compress the rings, but I still need about 7 hands to put everything in place. Is there any way to do this solo??

[gearhead13]

Cripes.

Got the rings on and the pistons attached.

How the hell do I get the cylinders back on? Got hose clamps to compress the rings, but I still need about 7 hands to put everything in place. Is there any way to do this solo??

I just installed my cylinders back on with the engine still in the bike by myself.
A few tips,
Do the middle two first, Somehow you have to keep the crank from turning, either with a block of wood or putting the bike in gear. Fully tighten the clamps on the middle two, lower the block, line up the pistons to the bores, then slowly loosen the clamps and tap on the top of the block, watching to make sure the pistons are going in straight and that the rings arent getting snagged, use a small screwdriver if needed to poke the rings into the bores.
Do not force it, if it doesnt go easily, find out why first.
Good luck.

[MisterCinders]

OK- Gearhead is a friggin magician. I cannot fathon for a second how this could be done by one person other than Otto Octavius.

With a buddy's helping, we finally got that beast into place. There was cursing, followed by rejoicing.

I put the head on to rest on the block and press the gaskets into place until I can get back to the project. This weekend, I can move forward with installing the head gaskets and head, and doing the timing chain, valve adjustments, reinstalling the exhaust, vacuum synching the carbs (replaced all intake and carb o-rings, and re-jetted for pods/4-1 pipes last Fall, and fully cleaned twice, etc.), and cleaning and re-oiling the pods.

Holy crap, I might even start this bastard!

[almarconi]

I just got done assembling an 8 valve head yesterday. I made a compressor after watching Steve's video. I did not have any pvc handy so I uses a rigid conduit coupling with a window cut into it. The one I used was about 7/8" so there was some wiggle room in the valve bore. Putting the keepers on took a minute or two once the spring was compressed. I think if the compressor was tight in the bore I would not have been able to put the keepers on as easily. Once I put one keeper on, I could shift the valve spring slightly to one side and slip the other keeper in. When I released the C clamp, the keepers aligned and locked into place.

[gearhead13]

OK- Gearhead is a friggin magician. I cannot fathon for a second how this could be done by one person other than Otto Octavius.

With a buddy's helping, we finally got that beast into place. There was cursing, followed by rejoicing.

I put the head on to rest on the block and press the gaskets into place until I can get back to the project. This weekend, I can move forward with installing the head gaskets and head, and doing the timing chain, valve adjustments, reinstalling the exhaust, vacuum synching the carbs (replaced all intake and carb o-rings, and re-jetted for pods/4-1 pipes last Fall, and fully cleaned twice, etc.), and cleaning and re-oiling the pods.

Holy crap, I might even start this bastard!

Having a buddy to help would make it much easier, but I dont have any friends

[MisterCinders]

Update:

Got the cylinder head on and the chain timed. That took three attempts because I am dumb.

Checked the new valve clearances, and two of them are too tight. So I am waiting on some new shims.

Put the exhaust back on, but ran into some trouble there. Basically, some of the exhaust bolts do not like the threads on that head. They came out of the head without much difficulty, but when I reinstalled the pipes, 2-3 of the bolts get really tight early. I checked the bolts, and their threads look fine. So I fear that the head has gotten cross-threaded or something.

After pairing the bolts as best I could, the exhaust is on there, but I cannot properly torque some of the bolts for fear of further damaging the threads on that head.

Any ideas? Do I need to bore out those threads?

[7981GS]

Update:

Got the cylinder head on and the chain timed. That took three attempts because I am dumb.

Checked the new valve clearances, and two of them are too tight. So I am waiting on some new shims.

Put the exhaust back on, but ran into some trouble there. Basically, some of the exhaust bolts do not like the threads on that head. They came out of the head without much difficulty, but when I reinstalled the pipes, 2-3 of the bolts get really tight early. I checked the bolts, and their threads look fine. So I fear that the head has gotten cross-threaded or something.

After pairing the bolts as best I could, the exhaust is on there, but I cannot properly torque some of the bolts for fear of further damaging the threads on that head.

Any ideas? Do I need to bore out those threads?

Just re-tap the holes. You should be able to go in 24-25mm.

Daniel

[MisterCinders]

Top end is rebuilt. Now I need to change the oil, re-install the carbs, add some fuel and start her up.

Then I will figure out what else is wrong with the bike no doubt.

[MisterCinders]

Just re-tap the holes. You should be able to go in 24-25mm.

Daniel

Would I tap in at the same bolt size or go bigger to clear out any stripped/crossed threads?

I am a tapping virgin, so be gentle.

[mike_of_bbg]

Same tap, you're just cleaning up the threads. Make sure you use anti-seize when you put the bolts back in.

Would I tap in at the same bolt size or go bigger to clear out any stripped/crossed threads?

I am a tapping virgin, so be gentle.

[7981GS]

Would I tap in at the same bolt size or go bigger to clear out any stripped/crossed threads?

I am a tapping virgin, so be gentle.

Use oil on the clean tap when you go in, clean the tap and the cleaned up holes with brake cleaner and compressed air to remove the debris on each hole and anti-seize on the clean bolts or studs that you install.

Daniel