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  • makenzie71
    Guest replied
    The exhaust is going to have to basically be a full custom. Just to get the point clear:

    If you do this same swap, you WILL HAVE TO BUILD THE EXHAUST FROM SCRATCH!

    I'm using two headers I had on hand...a vance and hines for the Kat and the old school Kerker for the GS...two of the primaries on both for collapsed from previous owners running then into **** (I will never understand how they manage to do this) so I'm not worried about cutting the one system that was pricey and the one that you just can't find any more.

    I'll run the primaries back to the collector for the Kerker exhaust and use that same old school megaphone or I'm going to take a couple of original GS "megaphone" looking mufflers, core them out, and do a dual setup.

    Leave a comment:


  • posplayr
    replied
    More power to your, you sure are not afraid to have at it. One thing I was wondering if you checked how the exhaust would hang. Seems the motor may be a bit forward so the a$$ end of the pipe will come a bit high.

    Leave a comment:


  • makenzie71
    Guest replied
    Where we are now...crappy pics...bite me...







    Leave a comment:


  • Ranger
    Guest replied
    Originally posted by makenzie71 View Post
    For a little while I'll be running 4 open turndowns. I can't wait.
    I really wanna see a video of that.

    Leave a comment:


  • makenzie71
    Guest replied
    I can say it's definite now...the Kat head and the 16v 750 frame do not work well together. Anyone else who does this swap with HAVE to use the lower rear mount the way I did. Moving the engine any further forward will not allow you to exhaust properly.

    Also definite....you can forget making any off the shelf system work. I even tried cutting the manifolds off the Kat exhaust to get the clearance distance I needed to make my old Kerker header work. No amount of grafting will fit it. You will have to make your own exhaust from the manifolds back. It's actually not too hard for anyone with any welding experience.

    I'm going to have to go to Lowes or Home Depot in the morning and get some aluminized conduit bends. Same thickness as standard exhaust tubing...if they have EMT that'll be even better (lighter)...and it's mandrel bent. The primaries on the Vance system that was on the bike were 1.5" and that's about the only way you'll get 1.5" tubing.

    I'll have to think of something for mufflers, though. I wanted to use my same Kerker can, but I don't know now unless I make the system 4-2-1. Originally it was 4-1 and I suck at welding quad merges. For a little while I'll be running 4 open turndowns. I can't wait.

    Leave a comment:


  • kingofvenus
    replied
    I've read that a 1052 (early 1100, later are 1127) crank and cylinder block will fit on the crankcase on these motors... 1127's with some machining.

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  • makenzie71
    Guest replied
    The 89 is the same as what I've got. The swap ought to be about as straight forward as what I've done.

    Leave a comment:


  • kingofvenus
    replied
    I'm compiling all the parts to install an '89 750 motor in my '83. About 9/10ths there. I have not decided on what size pistons are going in it yet...

    Leave a comment:


  • Ranger
    Guest replied
    Originally posted by makenzie71 View Post
    Like I said I bought the 1993 Kat 750 for $500. My goal is to make the whole thing work without having to buy additional "things". You need to have the engine, carburetors, all the wiring....basically everything to run the bike. So you really don't need that much of a financial investment. But you will need some fabrication skills and a welder/drill and a proper saw.
    I like the idea but too time consuming unfortunatly.

    Leave a comment:


  • makenzie71
    Guest replied
    Originally posted by Ranger View Post
    How much to pick an engine up and how much for all the hardware to make it work?
    Like I said I bought the 1993 Kat 750 for $500. My goal is to make the whole thing work without having to buy additional "things". You need to have the engine, carburetors, all the wiring....basically everything to run the bike. So you really don't need that much of a financial investment. But you will need some fabrication skills and a welder/drill and a proper saw.

    Leave a comment:


  • ReTread
    Guest replied
    Originally posted by makenzie71 View Post
    I can weld...that's how I got front brackets.

    The headers clear the bottom of the frame...it's the down tubes. They actually need to be spaced further out. What I'm going to do is cut the primaries off the vance setup and find some other way to collect them. Or run open quads.
    Open quads? Now that would be interesting to hear.

    Can't wait to see the finished project. Good luck.

    Leave a comment:


  • Ranger
    Guest replied
    How much to pick an engine up and how much for all the hardware to make it work?

    Leave a comment:


  • laserred97gt
    Guest replied
    Sweet. Subscribing to watch the coolness.

    Keep the updates and pictures coming!

    Leave a comment:


  • makenzie71
    Guest replied
    I can weld...that's how I got front brackets.

    The headers clear the bottom of the frame...it's the down tubes. They actually need to be spaced further out. What I'm going to do is cut the primaries off the vance setup and find some other way to collect them. Or run open quads.

    Leave a comment:


  • gsryder
    Guest replied
    Nice job! Can you weld or have access to someone that can weld for you?
    just a thought but maybe you can just extend or lengthen the header down pipes to clear the bottom of the frame. If the welds look ugly throw some exhaust wrap on there.

    Leave a comment:

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