Final drive broken!

[john82q]

Im new, strated discussing this here. http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171538

So its broken for sure, evidenced by the clunk and the metal in the oil.
so I ripped the back of the bike to bits...

bad light and phone camera, but you get the idea...

Damn!

More to bits than i needed to but am taking the opportunity to tidy a few things in the rear rear up.

The final drive came apart and I found this,



the bearing from the gear end of the pinion

This bearing is completly rooted. the inner is worn down over 1 mm.

I think what happened is the needle roller wore out and failed, the thrust of the gears pushing the pinion outwards caused flexing, this flexing fatigued and broke it.

Gunna hit the wreckers tomorrow and see what I can find.

A question, Bike is 82 GS1100G

I read somewhere GS850g is the same unit only with lower gearing can any one confirm? (I am thinking a little bit lower would be better with the sidecar, might spare the clutch abit in the traffic.


Cheers John

[Nessism]

The 850/1000/1100 rear drive units are all the same other than here in the US, the gearing changed 1983.

[Steve]

I think that any 850/1000/1100 unit will work. Starting in '83, the 1100 (maybe only the GK) had a taller ratio, not the direction you want to go. I am under the impression that all the other units had the same ratio. There were differences in the gearbox and secondary drive ratios on the different models, but the final drives were all the same, up to '83.

While you have things apart, be sure to check the splines in the rear wheel hub. The '82s were notoriously weak. Something you want to check, especially with the added load of a hack.

Splines from different years were different colors, which makes it easy to recognize them. '79s and some '80s were black, they are good. Some time in '80 through '82, they changed to a gold-looking metal. These are the soft ones. Starting some time in '83, the splines were silver, these are good.

.

[Nessism]

All '83 1100G final drive units are 2.8 - GK, GL and regular G. It's urban legend that the ratio change was limited to GK. All other 850/1000/1100 final drive units are 3.1. Here in the states you can pick up a used final drive off ebay for less than the cost to ship it. Hopefully it's a similar situation down under.

[Steve]

It's urban legend that the ratio change was limited to GK.

That's why I expressed my uncertainty in parentheses.

Thanks for the clarification.

.

[BassCliff]

Hi Mr. john82q,

Have a look at this article (PDF format) and see if it might help you.

Bevel Gear Shaft Repair
(by Mr. Zooks)

I can't tell if yours is broken in exactly the same spot. Is that broken in the final drive unit or near the u-joint next to the transmission? I just wanted to bring up the possibility of repair if you can't find a replacement.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[Buddy]

The two different ratios were 3.09 and 2.90:1. I have a high milage 3.09:1 unit with a leaky seal for free if you'll pay shipping. You'll probably find one local for less though.

Good luck with it.

Buddy

[BassCliff]

Hi,

FWIW, collected on my little website:

Shaft Drive Gear Ratio Chart - courtesy of Mr. Nessism




Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[landshark]

I have seen some on Aussie ebay recently, shouldnt be too hard to find one.

[Nessism]

The two different ratios were 3.09 and 2.90:1. I have a high milage 3.09:1 unit with a leaky seal for free if you'll pay shipping. You'll probably find one local for less though.

Good luck with it.

Buddy

You are correct. My memory has betrayed me again.

[SqDancerLynn1]

To clarify::: That looks like the output from the beveled gears-back of engine not rear differential... THE 850 beveled gears will NOT fit a 1100 motor, not sure on the 1000. Get Cliff's pdf file and fix it.. Common problem with the 1100. The rear differentials are the same other than the gear ratio if that's what you need..

[john82q]

final drive of diff if you prefer

Just to be clear were talking about the driving gear in the final drive at the wheel not the driven gear in the gearbox end.

So I went to a wrecker and examined a some FD units and picked out a 2.9/1 one. Then proceeded to argue with the guy

If your in Brisbane dont ever go to the wreckers in Albion that blokes a f'ing tool!

short of it is, he would not set a price, instead insisted I name a price, haveing seen one on evil bay for $40US I offered $80, thinking it was fair.
he got in a huff and refused to sell me the drive, saying he couldnt be bothered to take it off the bike for that much. (funny cause there it was on the bench, good to go) But then he was still refusing to name his price.
Unbeliveable, In the end I got the s***s and walked out.

Found one on findapart.com.au for $140 delivered, thought that was a bit dear...

Got to thinking, about modding the shaft as per the zook article.
would need kit of spares from all bearings and seals.

suzuki dealer $450 !
same kit from Babbits online $188 but $170.00 frieght (358)
can't win...ring some more wreckers I think...

john

[Dunger King]

take your seals and bearings along to CBC or the like and be amazed at how much cheaper things can be when you remove a couple of middle men. May be an idea to take the shafts and housings along for measuring if you can no longer read the info on the seals and bearings

[Guest]

Just to be clear were talking about the driving gear in the final drive at the wheel not the driven gear in the gearbox end.

So I went to a wrecker and examined a some FD units and picked out a 2.9/1 one. Then proceeded to argue with the guy

If your in Brisbane dont ever go to the wreckers in Albion that blokes a f'ing tool!

short of it is, he would not set a price, instead insisted I name a price, haveing seen one on evil bay for $40US I offered $80, thinking it was fair.
he got in a huff and refused to sell me the drive, saying he couldnt be bothered to take it off the bike for that much. (funny cause there it was on the bench, good to go) But then he was still refusing to name his price.
Unbeliveable, In the end I got the s***s and walked out.

Found one on findapart.com.au for $140 delivered, thought that was a bit dear...

Got to thinking, about modding the shaft as per the zook article.
would need kit of spares from all bearings and seals.

suzuki dealer $450 !
same kit from Babbits online $188 but $170.00 frieght (358)
can't win...ring some more wreckers I think...

john

Man that makes me mad! If that's the same guy that does the head work, then I'm not surprised that was his response though.

I called to get my valves faced just before Christmas and his response was $20, but with such a "I can't be bothered doing anything that little" attitude that I didn't bother even trying to get them to him. Got much better service elsewhere...

Not sure how good they are but I recall there's supposed to be a wrecker in Newstead and another in Woolloongabba, and there's also another one called Tiaro Motorcycle Wreckers.

http://www.tiaromotorcyclewreckers.com/

[john82q]

that wrecker

albion/newstead near the creek in the end of the apptly named Bogun St. (yes really!) I saw he had a machine shop, too.
With customer skills like that they must/should be going rusty.

Shame he quite a bit of GS stuff, but I'll never go back...

john