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    Removal of swingarm

    Hi,

    based upon a detailed description of Duaneage, I started the removal of the swingarm some days ago (due to leak at the rubber). Will be re-painting the swingarm and the differential. Having a bit of trouble removing the paint of the swingarm due to all the welds and different shapes and forms. The paint remover is not doing a great job either...

    Will take the necessary pictures for completing Duaneage's story...

    Questions:

    1) what material is the differential, and thus what paint should I use ? normal primer + color + clearcoat ? of special sort of paint ?

    2) what is the top of the rubber ? at one side, there is a flat spot (see picture), is that to be installed upwards or downwards ?

    3) what side of the rubber do you attach first ? front of the rubber on the engine or first installing the rubber to the swingarm ?

    lots of questions, but the answers will be beneficiary for Basscliff's site in the end...
    Last edited by Guest; 02-26-2011, 09:05 AM.

    #2
    I use a wire wheel/brush in my drill to remove paint from my frame.
    http://i632.photobucket.com/albums/u...00080021-1.jpg
    1978 GS1000C
    1979 GS1000E
    1980 GS1000E
    2004 Roadstar

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by gert du prez View Post
      Hi,

      based upon a detailed description of Duaneage, I started the removal of the swingarm some days ago (due to leak at the rubber). Will be re-painting the swingarm and the differential. Having a bit of trouble removing the paint of the swingarm due to all the welds and different shapes and forms. The paint remover is not doing a great job either...

      Will take the necessary pictures for completing Duaneage's story...

      Questions:

      1) what material is the differential, and thus what paint should I use ? normal primer + color + clearcoat ? of special sort of paint ?

      2) what is the top of the rubber ? at one side, there is a flat spot (see picture), is that to be installed upwards or downwards ?

      3) what side of the rubber do you attach first ? front of the rubber on the engine or first installing the rubber to the swingarm ?

      lots of questions, but the answers will be beneficiary for Basscliff's site in the end...

      1) The final drive casing is aluminum, same as the engine case covers -- it's clear-coated from the factory. Paint remover will damage the seals, so if you want to remove the clear coat, it might be best to mask off the input and output sides and sand it off, then polish and/or paint as you wish. Many people simply polish aluminum parts, then treat them with ordinary car wax a few times a year. If you research polishing engine case covers, you'll see lots of examples and advice.

      2) The flat spot goes to the inside (the right side).

      3) I usually install the rubber boot on the engine first, then work it onto the swingarm. It doesn't make a lot of difference which you do first.



      But more importantly: did you find and fix the oil leak? The rubber boot is just there to keep dirt and shoestrings out of the u-joint.

      The bevel gear is the assembly that contains the output flange -- the part of the engine that the driveshaft bolts to.

      If one of the bearings in the bevel gear assembly goes bad, it will start leaking. There is a seal here, but it rarely goes bad by itself.

      Before doing anything else, see if there's any play or movement in the output flange.

      Also, it's very important to use the high-grade OEM bolts when re-attaching the swingarm, and use red thread lock the ensure they can't come loose. Guess how I learned this...
      1983 GS850G, Cosmos Blue.
      2005 KLR685, Aztec Pink - Turd II.3, the ReReReTurdening
      2015 Yamaha FJ-09, Magma Red Power Corrupts...
      Eat more venison.

      Please provide details. The GSR Hive Mind is nearly omniscient, but not yet clairvoyant.

      Celeriter equita, converteque saepe.

      SUPPORT THIS SITE! DONATE TODAY!

      Co-host of "The Riding Obsession" sport-touring motorcycling podcast at tro.bike!

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by bwringer View Post
        .


        But more importantly: did you find and fix the oil leak? The rubber boot is just there to keep dirt and shoestrings out of the u-joint.

        The bevel gear is the assembly that contains the output flange -- the part of the engine that the driveshaft bolts to.

        If one of the bearings in the bevel gear assembly goes bad, it will start leaking. There is a seal here, but it rarely goes bad by itself.

        Before doing anything else, see if there's any play or movement in the output flange.
        Ok, the seal looks good but there is oil dripping...indeed there is 'play' of the output of the bevel gear, can move it 1mm to any direction, so that seems to be quite loose...

        what do I do next ? I was not planning to dive into the engine...
        can I work my way into the bevel gear starting from there ?
        will add picture tomorrow showing the oil leak...

        Comment


          #5
          fyi, picture is taken from the back of the bike (where the swingarm normally is installed) ...definitely the oil is leaking, the seal looks intact.

          how do I tackle this ?

          Comment


            #6
            shaft broken?

            gert,

            Cant really tell from the picture, but did you remove the nut and the uni- joint flange, or has it broken off?

            If all you want to do is replace the seal it can just be pulled out from the casing. make a hook out of thin steel rod and pull it hard, the seal will be damaged pulling it so have a new one.

            but if its broken you can undo the 4 bolts and pull the driven gear and its bearings out. (the oil will come out...) get the factory service manual from Bass cliffs site, heaps of pictures.


            cheers john

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by john82q View Post
              gert,

              Cant really tell from the picture, but did you remove the nut and the uni- joint flange, or has it broken off?

              If all you want to do is replace the seal it can just be pulled out from the casing. make a hook out of thin steel rod and pull it hard, the seal will be damaged pulling it so have a new one.

              but if its broken you can undo the 4 bolts and pull the driven gear and its bearings out. (the oil will come out...) get the factory service manual from Bass cliffs site, heaps of pictures.


              cheers john
              Hi,

              the shaft does not seem to be broken but could be pulled out as it is just sitting over the teeth without any bolts whatsoever (it is kept there by the differential that pushes the shaft towards the engine, I would assume)

              I can't really read the pictures of what parts I would need if I would like to replace the seal and the bearing...
              can anyone indicate what numbers I would need ?

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by gert du prez View Post
                Hi,

                the shaft does not seem to be broken but could be pulled out as it is just sitting over the teeth without any bolts whatsoever (it is kept there by the differential that pushes the shaft towards the engine, I would assume)

                I can't really read the pictures of what parts I would need if I would like to replace the seal and the bearing...
                can anyone indicate what numbers I would need ?
                parts picture 1

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by gert du prez View Post
                  parts picture 1
                  parts picture 2

                  Comment


                    #10
                    could be pulled out as it is just sitting over the teeth without any bolts whatsoever (it is kept there by the differential that pushes the shaft towards the engine, I would assume)
                    No no!
                    its held on with a nut (item 13 ) and the washer (item 12)
                    Normally you would have to undo 4 bolts in on the flange (item 11) to get to the nut.


                    the seal (item 15) and bearings (items 8 and 7) may need to be changed, but theres no point with the shaft broken.

                    Heres one way to fix the shaft. Bevel Gear Shaft Repair
                    (by Mr. Zooks)


                    Hope that helps

                    john

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by john82q View Post
                      No no!

                      Heres one way to fix the shaft. Bevel Gear Shaft Repair
                      (by Mr. Zooks)


                      Hope that helps

                      john
                      Yes John, that helps, now knowing that indeed the shaft has broken off...
                      as soon as I read "this is a fairly common problem ..." I knew the bike suffered from this...

                      have had every other 'common' problem as well ...
                      - stator issues
                      - regulator issues
                      - leaking front forks
                      - melted wiring
                      ...you name it...

                      do you think the method described in your referral is the best solution ? or would you replace the drive and driven set ?

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Dang, I was afraid that was the real problem.

                        Honestly, it's probably easiest to replace the bevel gear assembly (just the driven part) with a set from a used engine. If that's not available, you might be able to get a machine shop to perform the repair as shown by Zooks.

                        If you've been riding around like this, you're in for a real treat once you get it fixed properly.
                        Last edited by bwringer; 03-01-2011, 12:15 AM.
                        1983 GS850G, Cosmos Blue.
                        2005 KLR685, Aztec Pink - Turd II.3, the ReReReTurdening
                        2015 Yamaha FJ-09, Magma Red Power Corrupts...
                        Eat more venison.

                        Please provide details. The GSR Hive Mind is nearly omniscient, but not yet clairvoyant.

                        Celeriter equita, converteque saepe.

                        SUPPORT THIS SITE! DONATE TODAY!

                        Co-host of "The Riding Obsession" sport-touring motorcycling podcast at tro.bike!

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by bwringer View Post
                          Dang, I was afraid that was the real problem.

                          If you've been riding around like this, you're in for a real treat once you get it fixed properly.
                          you make me curious...what do you mean with 'real treat' ?
                          how would I 'feel' this ?

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Ok, as I do have a spare one, I will replace the entire driven gear (not the drive/driven set).

                            what's the deal with the flanges ? do you need to measure a sort of 'thickness' like valve adjustments ?

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Can't get the driven gear set out ...

                              Hi,

                              swingarm of the spare parts bike is removed, all 4 bolts of the driven gear set are out...but can't get the damn set loose...

                              have pushed a screwdriver between the edge of the driven gear set and the engine, and knocked hard with a hammer...edge broke off...still the whole set is sitting there...

                              what's the next step ? how do I loosen this ? (see post #5 in this thread for attachment)

                              Comment

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