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    New Ring Break-in Procedure?

    I've just finished reassembling my '79 GS550, with new rings. I've heard a pile of reports but nothing seems consistent. Does anyone know of a proper break-in procedure for a new set of rings on this bike, or for any 4-cylinder for that matter?

    #2
    This was just posted in another thread..

    Comment


      #3
      Ride the h*** out of it.

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by ranger View Post
        this was just posted in another thread..

        http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
        + 1
        http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

        Life is too short to ride an L.

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          #5
          Just ride it assertively around town and it will be fine. No need for some elaborate break in procedure. Worst thing is to baby it.
          Ed

          To measure is to know.

          Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

          Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

          Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

          KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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            #6
            Beat on it like a red headed step child, ride it like you stole it, after about 3 good heat cycles, cool it to cold, re-torque the head, check the valve adjustment, change the oil & filter, & then go ride the snot out of it! Ray.

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              #7
              Would that method apply if you honed the cylinders in your backyard with Sears honing stones, a cordless drill and used cast rings?
              I used this method when I was breaking in the Ford 351w I built for my boat; but I had professional hone done to that block, moly rings, and very nice machine work throughout.
              -1980 GS1100 LT
              -1975 Honda cb750K
              -1972 Honda cl175
              - Currently presiding over a 1970 T500

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                #8
                No matter how it was done, the rings need to seat, they need to be under pressure.
                Open the throttle.
                http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

                Life is too short to ride an L.

                Comment


                  #9
                  You need to be on the throttle or completely off the throttle. No in between. I've just run my 550 in, and you need good combustion in the cylinders to force the rings out against the bore. I've been told that it's not the spring in the rings that keeps them against the bore but the combustion pressure that gets behind the rings and forces them against the cylinder walls. And this can't happen if you are puttering along. Like I said full ON or full OFF. Shutting the throttle completely draws extra oil into the cylinders to lubricate the new rings.

                  I now have 1,500 miles on my new motor and not a whisp of smoke from the exhaust.

                  My2c

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by tkent02 View Post
                    No matter how it was done, the rings need to seat, they need to be under pressure.
                    Open the throttle.
                    I buy the fast break in method - I've used it.
                    I just can't help but to think that the easy break-in method is rooted in something. I'm sure engineers of yesteryear understood ring tensions and pressure.
                    -1980 GS1100 LT
                    -1975 Honda cb750K
                    -1972 Honda cl175
                    - Currently presiding over a 1970 T500

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by Tom R View Post
                      I buy the fast break in method - I've used it.
                      I just can't help but to think that the easy break-in method is rooted in something. I'm sure engineers of yesteryear understood ring tensions and pressure.
                      Might be related to liability associated with telling a new bike owner they need to use a lot of throttle from the first ride.
                      Ed

                      To measure is to know.

                      Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                      Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                      Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                      KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by Tom R View Post
                        I just can't help but to think that the easy break-in method is rooted in something. I'm sure engineers of yesteryear understood ring tensions and pressure.
                        I think it's rooted in old manufacturing processes. The reason to take it easy on the motor had nothing to do with seating rings, but to give the system a chance to gradually filter out metal shavings that might be left behind from the machining processes before you put on too much stress and caused excessive bearing damage.

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                          #13
                          Yeah, I agree with the high-rpm method.

                          I can't believe how many people still recommend the old way.


                          I think it's just about liability.....because honestly, no manufacturer is going to actually "recommend" flooring it, or driving hard. If someone gets in an accident, or ends up taking it too far and blowing the motor, their going to point back to the Manual!(which of course clearly advocates the high-rpm method)

                          Imagine the results...in this stupid "sue-happy" country.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Theres more to the bike than just the rings...

                            I think historically you need to consider tight big ends and crank bearings of the plain journal sort, Valve seats, guides all the other bearings , chains and such, and all manner of fastners which may or not be tight from the factory. Time was these things were purposfully made tight to wear in to the correct clearance, as manufacturing tolerances simply wernt as good.

                            I think to some extent today manufactures gently does it is a whole bike appoach not just the rings. whole bike would include lawyers no doubt, but that would not be the only factor, as most manuals have disclaimers etc Most modern motors are factory run after assembly, so rings would be bedded already.


                            Thats new bikes of course, rebuild could be a different story.



                            John

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Back in 81 i had a new Z1000j1 it used to go threw a litre of oil in 100miles ,this was
                              sorted under warrenty kawasaki sent new set of pistons and rings to the dealer work was carried out got bike back "told to run it carefully".
                              big mistake it started drinking even more oil took it back they wouldnt refused to sort it out,but i did a bit more homework i was told i should had rung its neck and showed no mercey,with it ooh well live and learn i suppose.
                              cant win can yer?.

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