carb question

[trinitysj]

So, in another post

This one: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=172770 it was said that my engine might be running lean... so i took my carbs apart today and found something interesting.

pics attached...

both inlets and fuel inlet


the good one.. on carbs 3&4


the bad one.. on carbs 1&2 ( which are the ones turning color the worst )


isnt that hole in that plastic connector supposed to be bigger.. would that make the carbs run too rich and blue my pipes as well?

thanks

[DanTheMan]

Too rich makes sooty plugs and black smoke from pipes. Too lean blues the pipes from too high of exhaust gas temperatures. Either one will one cause it to bog out on throttle application, but excessively lean causes a high idle. That plastic connector is for your vent tube isn't it? To melt it like that it's been really hot there.

on edit: I meant VENT tubes not overflow. I shouldn't be typing when my mind is too tired to think of the right nomenclature.

[Nessism]

Time to go though those carbs and do a full rebuild. There are countless threads here regarding what to do. You should be able to find a spare for that damaged part from someone here - post in the Parts Wanted forum.

Please don't take short cuts, do the job properly...one time.

[BassCliff]

Hi,

The "inlet" in the middle is indeed the fuel connector. The other two are vent tubes.





See the article: Where Do These Hoses Go?

More information and pictures on my little website. Click the link in my sig.



Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[trinitysj]

I just ordered a full rebuild kit for all 4 carbs.. when that gets here I will be installing all new parts.

[DanTheMan]

I just ordered a full rebuild kit for all 4 carbs.. when that gets here I will be installing all new parts.

Should have just ordered the o-rings from cycleorings.com. The rebuild kits for the most part are substandard junk and they never come with all the o-rings you need to do the job right.

[BassCliff]

Hi,

Did you order after market "carb rebuild kits" or did you order a set of O-rings from http://cycleorings.com? A proper disassembly, cleaning, and reassembly with Robert Barr's O-ring kit is usually all you need. Replace only the worn or broken parts with Suzuki OEM parts. Do not use the inferior aftermarket "carb rebuild kits". CLICK HERE to view the proper way to clean and rebuild your carbs.

Using the aftermarket "carb rebuild kits" will lead only to frustration, hair pulling, moaning, and gnashing of teeth. Use the links above and do it right the first time. You'll be glad you did.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[trinitysj]

i ordered them from cycleorings.com... wanted to do it the right way

[DanTheMan]

i ordered them from cycleorings.com... wanted to do it the right way

Good! When you said carb kits, I thought "uh oh, now he got a bunch of junk he can't use....."
Sorry for doubting

[BassCliff]

i ordered them from cycleorings.com... wanted to do it the right way

Yes, I should never have doubted you either.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[trinitysj]

it was better than $25 per carb... i got the whole kit for $20
nice... cant wait to get them.. and get my bike running better...

[mike_of_bbg]

I know Z1 Enterprises was stocking some replacement tees for Mikuni carbs. Not sure if it was just the fuel tee and fuel rail pipes or if the vent tees were available too. As I recall they were nice aluminum parts. Though, there were more o-rings to need later

EDIT: OK, all I could find on their site was a fuel tee for 29mm smoothbore carbs. Never mind, going to bed now...

EDIT2: Oh, here it is, fuel tee/rail parts only, no vent tees. Sorry. So still NVM. And only for the 750-1000s (BS34?)

http://www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=4159

http://www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=4156

[trinitysj]

ok I have a question... other than the o-rings... if i did need to do the whole kit from scratch.. what is the main jet that I need? with this in mind.. I have 4-1 exhaust and air pods on all 4 carbs... someone said stage 3 jet kit.. not sure what that is in relation to a #115...

should I use a #115 main jet cause I think i have a #190 in it... not sure on that... will pull them out and let you know. And how to I richen the mixture up.. is it with the air needle on the top of the carb... lessen the airflow by screwing it in more than out?

am i getting this right...

I have downloaded the pdf from basscliff's site and am going to follow that.. but it says nothing on once your done... how to sync them or adjust the mixtures on it...

thanks again

R

[BassCliff]

Hi,

The reason you install bigger jets is to richen up the fuel/air mixture by putting more fuel in the mix. With a pipe and pods the engine will flow more air.

If you're going to tune the carbs manually, the general rule is to go up 3 to 6 sizes on the main jets, perhaps one size on the pilot jet, and shim the needles to richen up the midrange. You must read the spark plugs, using the "plug chop method" to make sure the fuel/air mixture is optimal. Then adjust as necessary to get the proper plug color at all throttle openings. But the whole reason you get the DJ3 kit is because it has specially tapered needles with special clips which make tuning the midrange much easier. The DJ3 kit comes with at least 2 different sizes of main jets for you to experiment with.

The "idle mixture screw" on the top of the carbs is for just that, to adjust the idle mixture. Turn it out to richen the idle mixture. Use the "highest idle" method or the Colortune to adjust these screws.

The stock Mikuni jets and the Dynojet jets do not use the same measurement criteria for their size references. The Mikuni jets use a "cc per minute" measurement while the Dynojet parts use the actual diameter measurement of the jet opening.

You'll find much more detail by searching the forum and you'll find links to carb tuning webpages on my website in the carb sections. You'll also find a chart with stock jetting numbers. Good luck.

Here's the link to Dynojet. Look around for a Stage 3 jet kit for your bike: http://www.dynojet.com/


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[trinitysj]

thanks cliff,

I looked at my plugs.. and it seems that they are right on as far as burn goes.. none are fouled.. and none are burnt, ie. too hot and lean.. they look just right according to the reference materials.

so if it is running a little lean i can turn "out" the air mixture screw to richen it up a bit to make it optimal? is that right?

thanks again

R