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GS1000ET Clutch and oil pump drive question

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    GS1000ET Clutch and oil pump drive question

    Hey folks,

    Just finished the removal of my old rattling clutch basket and re-assy using a second hand basket that had no broken springs.
    During the re-assy I was interrupted, lost the old train of thought for a while, and am now a bit vague about how well I did the alignment of the oil pump drive gear to the rear of the clutch basket.

    My uncertainty is due to the change in engine running noise; no more rattling , but it sounds a bit like a very light grinding noise coming from that side
    It is not a nerve shredding noise, and may have always been there but just masked by the sound of the broken springs in my old basket.
    The fact that my clutch cable had to be slackened a fair amount to get it to release the clutch is also concerning me as I did not change any plates/springs etc

    So finally a question: If I had failed to get the two dogs on the oil pump gear to mate up with the cut outs on the rear of the basket, should I have been able to push the basket bearing and spacer further back than flush with the front edge of the basket?
    I was not able to do this during the re-fit so all may still be well.
    Also, in one of the cut outs on the back of the basket for the oil pump gear there is hole, do you know what this is for?

    If you've got one in pieces and fancy checking it out that would be much appreciated, It would save me another oil drain, gasket and strip down to double check.
    Cheers for the advice.
    Last edited by Guest; 04-28-2011, 08:42 AM.

    #2
    Did you check how it felt after you did the big nut up and before you put any clutch plates in? Should turn freely with only a hint of slop. That little hole is for a rubber plug thats sits in there for just damping . (i think) You dont need to drain any oil aas its sits on the side stand and you just take off the clutch cover

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      #3
      check and make sure the notch on the oil pump lined up with the notch on the back of the clutch basket.
      Also the right corner bolt one up is a shorter bolt with a rubber washer should be short or you will take metal off the basket.
      1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
      1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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        #4
        Chief1366 may have hit the nail on the head !!!

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