annoying rattle , anyone recognise it please

[janner]

Went on basscliffs site and couldnt find the tutorial, do you have a link please, sory to be a pain, cheers jon

[spchips]

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/storagecliff/images/cam_end_float_mod.pdf

[janner]

anybody want to buy an otherwise mint GS650GT ?

[Steve]

any more digs at me steve? just trying to help

I haven't been keeping track of who all I have been "digging" lately, has there been more than this one in your direction?

Lots of times, I will let a little detail slide by, but this time the "detail" was the necessary removal of the carbs. Not quite a "trivial" detail.

.

[Mekanix]

Its not that bad.

I don't know of any reason why you couldn't use a thin steel washer to fix this.


When your running above idle there is enough oil flow to keep the cam centered so its not doing any damage.

[Steve]

anybody want to buy an otherwise mint GS650GT ?

If that is the only thing that is wrong with it, don't worry about it.

My wife's bike sounded like that (actually just a bit worse) when we got it six (or was it seven) years ago.
We have put on about 25,000 miles, the sound is no different.

Just accept it as a "normal" noise and RIDE.

.

[Suzuki_Don]

Its not that bad.

I don't know of any reason why you couldn't use a thin steel washer to fix this.


When your running above idle there is enough oil flow to keep the cam centered so its not doing any damage.

Am I missing something here!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Janner try this link.

http://www.bwringer.com/gs/camchaintens.html

It's more likely clutch than cam tensioner me thinks!!

[Mekanix]

Am I missing something here!

Possibly

If you read every post up to now, the opinions have been that the knocking is either cam chain slap and therefore the discussion was lead towards the cam chain tensioner being the culprit and solutions were offered.

However the other possibility is that it could be cam walk.

The proper fix for cam walks is http://members.dslextreme.com/users/..._float_mod.pdf

While we are on this tangent I suggested to Use a thin spacer to correct the cam walk.

[Suzuki_Don]

Possibly

If you read every post up to now, the opinions have been that the knocking is either cam chain slap and therefore the discussion was lead towards the cam chain tensioner being the culprit and solutions were offered.

However the other possibility is that it could be cam walk.

The proper fix for cam walks is http://members.dslextreme.com/users/..._float_mod.pdf

While we are on this tangent I suggested to Use a thin spacer to correct the cam walk.

Sorry -- Didn't mean to upset anybody, but I thought you said a thin steel washer. I'd just like to know from a mechanical/engineering point of view how you would propose to do this? How do you put a big, thin, steel washer around a camshaft to stop cam walk. I am always willing to learn a new technique and I am very interested in this one.

[49er]

Sorry -- Didn't mean to upset anybody, but I thought you said a thin steel washer. I'd just like to know from a mechanical/engineering point of view how you would propose to do this? How do you put a big, thin, steel washer around a camshaft to stop cam walk. I am always willing to learn a new technique and I am very interested in this one.

Good point Don. Plus you'd need to use shim stock in the 0.0015" to 0.0045" range.

[janner]

Right chaps, been out this morning and removed the vac line and plugged with bolt and started her up from cold with fuel tap in prime, in reserve and on positions she runs out of fuel !! anyway, the upshot is that there was some very slight knocking when cold that I traced to the front cam above the exhaust ports with the aid of an old pushrod and holding to my ear, also the cam chrome end covers get a lot hotter than the rears and a lot quicker but i presume thats natural being above the headers, but could this also be a reason why the front cam wears quicker? , anyway as she got to full temperature the knocking dissapeared completely and even with my pushrod held to my ear i could detect no knocking at all, so , why is it there sometimes and not others, and why when its hot and the oil is at its thinnest is it quieter, ive ran the carbs out dry now ready to remove the tank and get at the carbs and the tensioner, !! oh! by the way i also held my pushrod to my ear and held it against the tensioner body while running and there was no cam chain noise from there either, also the bike seemed to pick up and be a lot more responsive without the vac line attached, gentlemen . your views please..cheers jon

[hampshirehog]

She's quieter when she's hot because all the cylinders are working evenly, or more evenly. When cold the engine will be 'hunting' to some degree and. for example, #2 will get a bigger bang than #3 throwing the engine out of balance. This is a classic symptom of clutch rattle - some bikes sound as if they're going to throw everything out through the crankcase when cold but run quite sweetly warmed up. Not saying it is your clutch but just that that noise is the most definitive of cylinders out of balance.

If it's runing better with the vacuum line plugged and she won't run on run or reserve it would suggest that either your vac hose is leaking or, more likely, the diaphragm in the tap is boogered. This ties in with the earlier post about your oil smelling of petrol, one rich cylinder etc.

Keep at it. It'll run fine in the end.

[janner]

Hammy, Right first of all thanks for bearing with me on this one , secondly, if it is the clutch rattling then why was the noise most prominent when i held the doobry against the front cam cover ? and so is it best to take it for a run with the vac line plugged ? would that running rich have caused the hesitancy / missing i was experiencing ? in which case do i need to strip the carbs off? Do bare with me , i,m just trying to prioritise my workload as i have umpteen theings on the go here.. and not enough time, cheers mate

[hampshirehog]

The example I gave of clutch rattle being much worse when a motor is cold was just that - an example. It was just to explain what happens to some rattles when an engine warms up and settles down.

If I'm honest, I used to try the stethoscope trick but it never worked for me. I always wondered if some areas being more 'hollow' than others could echo a noise and make it seem like the noise was coming from a different place. Might just be my ears though as others seem to think it works.

Take the bike for a run with the vac line plugged; some people run like this all the time anyway. I would plug both ends (carb and tap) as if you have got a leaky tap diaphragm you might fine petrol all over your left leg.

[Agemax]

can you feel any feedback through the clutch lever, if you put very slight pressure on the lever, just enough to take up the freeplay, you should feel if the clutch is rattling, or does the rattle go if you pull in the clutch?