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Engine locked up! next step?
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Engine locked up! next step?
I am still trying to get my '78 gs750 to turn over. I have had Deep Creep in the cylinders for over a week. I have rocked the bike back and forth in gear, tried the kickstarter, and recently tried to turn the bolt under the cover by the points. I am doing this in neutral (the neutral light is on). I am afraid to reef on that bolt, but it seems that I need to somehow knock the pistons loose. Can I use my impact driver on that bolt? Does it matter which way I rotate the bolt? If that doesn't work, I think the next step would be getting the head off and maybe trying to persuade the pistons directly with a wooden block and a mallet. The PO swears that the engine ran fine until he quit riding it. Any thoughts on a plan of attack?Tags: None
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JEEPRUSTY
Originally posted by snyderman View PostI am still trying to get my '78 gs750 to turn over. I have had Deep Creep in the cylinders for over a week. I have rocked the bike back and forth in gear, tried the kickstarter, and recently tried to turn the bolt under the cover by the points. I am doing this in neutral (the neutral light is on). I am afraid to reef on that bolt, but it seems that I need to somehow knock the pistons loose. Can I use my impact driver on that bolt? Does it matter which way I rotate the bolt? If that doesn't work, I think the next step would be getting the head off and maybe trying to persuade the pistons directly with a wooden block and a mallet. The PO swears that the engine ran fine until he quit riding it. Any thoughts on a plan of attack?
DO NOT USE THE IMPACT DRIVER!
You say deep creep for over a week. Dies that mean you put it in everyday or several times a day? Can you fill the cylinders with it, and if so, does the stuff drain away quickly or not at all?
Acetone is a favourite chemical of mine it disolves most anything. Try that in you cylinders.
If bruet force is what you need then put it third gear and coast down a hill slowly engaging the clutch.
no impact drive that rotor is secured in small thread and the keyway is not too robust either.
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"Ran when parked" ... classic line.
How long ago?
If the engine is locked up THAT solidly, you will have to resign yourself to taking it apart, but be forewarned: it won't be pretty.
Unless you have something special about that engine, it will be esier, faster and cheaper to just get a replacement engine.
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Mar 2006
- 35607
- Torrance, CA
Time to pull the top end.Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
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snyderman
I have no fear about pulling the top end, just wondering how to go about it. I should be able to take the head off, I just wonder about separating the cam chain, does it have a master link that I wont be able to access? Once I get the head off, is there a good method for freeing up the pistons directly? I figure that even if this engine is junk, the further I go with it, the more I will learn. I am not in a hurry to ride, I wanted a project.
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JEEPRUSTY
OEM cam chains have no master link. Well mine doesn't and all the engine rebuilders on here eschew them.
Take some pics and share them.
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Ranger
Hope you have better luck than I did.
Its not too hard to do, just takes time but quit forcing anything.
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You don't have to remove the chain, just remove the cam chain tensioner, slide the cams out from under the chain and drop the chain into the hole, then off come the head and the cylinders. You can fish it out later, or tie it to something so it doesn't drop down in there if you'd rather do that.
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snyderman
Thanks for the tip on the cam chain, makes perfect sense. How about freeing up the pistons? Is Hitting a wood block or dowel placed against the piston a good idea? is there a better way? Thanks for all the help! I love this forum!
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Mar 2006
- 35607
- Torrance, CA
With the head off you can then work to get the cylinder block loose from the crankcase. They like to stick pretty tight sometimes so work carefully or some of the fins can be knocked off. Once you get the cylinder loose you should be able to figure out which cylinder(s) are sticking. Using your hammer, handle end down on the pistons, should help persuade them free. If that doesn't work, I'd soak them more and consider using a heat gun as well, but don't force anything too much.Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
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snyderman
Thanks again! It sounds like the soaking can take longer than I thought. As long as it makes sense I'll keep soaking and waiting after I get the head off, if gentle persuasion doesn't do it. One more question The mix of acetone and ATF, what is the ATF?
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Automatic Transmission FluidCowboy Up or Quit. - Run Free Lou and Rest in Peace
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Sit tall in the saddle Hold your head up high
Keep your eyes fixed where the trail meets the sky and live like you ain't afraid to die
and don't be scared, just enjoy your ride - Chris Ledoux, "The Ride"
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