GS1100 Crankshafts, are they as weak as i'm led to believe.

[the_zander]

Good afternoon, as the proud owner of a GS750 I have officially become addicted to buying GS-series bikes. Next in my sights is a 1982 GS1100, I’m absolutely enamored with the styling of these machines but have heard mixed reviews of the strength of stock, unwelded crankshafts.

Is crankshaft failure (via, twisting out of phase) a common, chronic problem? Or do these engine hold up indefinitely to stock power output?

Regards,
-Zander

[Nessism]

The % of people that experience problems is low, but if you plan to ride the bike hard a welded crank is recommended.

[Big T]

The vast majority of 1100 have no problems with the stock crank, even on modified motors

[koolaid_kid]

I have been told that the later 82s had welded cranks from the factory.
I would certainly check; I had a friend that twisted his 82's crank. However, I would have thought that if the crank was going to twist it would have done so by now.

[the_zander]

So the impression i get is that if ridden hard (aka: more that brisk street use, track days or drag racing) welding is necessary for piece of mind. And the use of welding for a bike confined to the street is a toss-up?

-Zander

[posplayr]

So the impression i get is that if ridden hard (aka: more that brisk street use, track days or drag racing) welding is necessary for piece of mind. And the use of welding for a bike confined to the street is a toss-up?

-Zander

I don't think the 80-82 non welded cranks are a toss up for street use, it is more like a low probability of twisting a factory crank/street riding. While the 83 welded crank is preferable, I don't think anyone would steer you away from an 80-82 1100E that you might have found that meets your fancy.

[TheCafeKid]

I don't think the 80-82 non welded cranks are a toss up for street use, it is more like a low probability of twisting a factory crank/street riding. While the 83 welded crank is preferable, I don't think anyone would steer you away from an 80-82 1100E that you might have found that meets your fancy.

Agreed. I wouldn't say they had anymore crank twisting issues even mildly modified than a Kaw of the same era. I certainly wouldn't pass on one in good shape with that as a consideration. And from what little I have read regarding twisting issues they seem to twist relatively early on if they're to do it at all. I think Chef had a pretty modded 80 motor with the stock crank with tons of miles and never had a problem. Not something I would concern myself with too horribly much.

[blowerbike]

the problem is not the possible twisting but the small taper that supports the alt. rotor.
ms. daisy would be fine riding an 80-82 but a person who likes to spin up to redline and close the throttle.....trouble will be in your future.
spin the rotor on the crank and your just about done....
and if you want to impress your friends then maybe the crank will snap off at the main bearing leaving the crank snout stuck inside the alt. rotor.
i'm just the messenger folks.

[posplayr]

the problem is not the possible twisting but the small taper that supports the alt. rotor.
ms. daisy would be fine riding an 80-82 but a person who likes to spin up to redline and close the throttle.....trouble will be in your future.
spin the rotor on the crank and your just about done....
and if you want to impress your friends then maybe the crank will snap off at the main bearing leaving the crank snout stuck inside the alt. rotor.
i'm just the messenger folks.

do we need a poll on how many people with 80-82 16V 1100's have had crank problems?

[Katarat]

I had the stator come loose on my 80 GS1100ET & bugger the crank end up. I put it back together with red lock tite and its been fine ever since. Dont know if that qualifies as a crank problem or not but Ive seen quite a few that way

[posplayr]

I had the stator come loose on my 80 GS1100ET & bugger the crank end up. I put it back together with red lock tite and its been fine ever since. Dont know if that qualifies as a crank problem or not but Ive seen quite a few that way

I always use the red loctite, and have not had an issue getting off even the rotor on a big end 83 crank

[the_zander]

Thanks all for the words of wisdom, i bit the bullet and got myself an '83 GS1100E, paid a little more than the '82 i was looking at but the factory welding is nice piece of mind.

So now that i've taken the first step what is the best preventative measure to take to avoid this above mentioned alternator rotor shaft destruction.

Should i buy a new center bolt, tighten it so the specified torque with some red locktite and leave it at that?

I presume the above posters are applying red locktite to the center bolt threads and not the tapered shaft itself (that wouldnt seem logical, locktite isnt metal epoxy after all).

-Zander

[posplayr]

Thanks all for the words of wisdom, i bit the bullet and got myself an '83 GS1100E, paid a little more than the '82 i was looking at but the factory welding is nice piece of mind.

So now that i've taken the first step what is the best preventative measure to take to avoid this above mentioned alternator rotor shaft destruction.

Should i buy a new center bolt, tighten it so the specified torque with some red locktite and leave it at that?

I presume the above posters are applying red locktite to the center bolt threads and not the tapered shaft itself (that wouldnt seem logical, locktite isnt metal epoxy after all).

-Zander

I did red lock tight on both, mostly the taper.

The other nice things the 83 has over the 82 is fairing mounts that the ESD used. These can be used for a steering stabilizer if you choose to get one. Also the foot pedals are a little more stylish than the older ones. 140 mph speedo as well ( in USA at least). Cams are a little hotter and jetting a little richer for 4+ hp as per spec. Cams tend to be the same as the Big Kat. There are other odds and ends but that is most of it (welded crank included)