Threebond

[gsryder]

Has anyone used the threebond 1194 on copper gaskets?
The threebond 1207? says specifically not to use on copper as it is corrosive but I cant find any info on the 1194 for use with copper gaskets.


Anyone know by chance????

[rapidray]

If you are doing a copper head or base gasket, the best product to use is Gasgacinch. My dragbike motors have ZERO leaks when I use this stuff. 2 coats on EVERY surface they will touch, including the gasket. Let dry between each coat. Kind of a bear to get apart but when done correctly they SEAL! Ray.

[gsryder]

Unfortunatly I did that, very meticulously....and it leaks.
It was good for a little while but a few blasts under boost and she starting weeping pretty bad from the base around the oil ways and a little from around the top.

I want something better, been talking with a tech from threebond and it seems the 1207B should fit the bill....now I just need to find some. 1207B is non corrosive to copper

http://www.threebond.co.jp/en/product/series/sealants/1200list.html

[rapidray]

1207B is a rubber that works great for the cases but will NOT last on a head gasket! Have fun! I tried to help. Ray.

[rapidray]

Also, you have 2 threads going now for the same question. If you don't want to listen to us that have done it, & do it CORRECTLY, don't ask for our help again! Ray.

[gsryder]

Also, you have 2 threads going now for the same question. If you don't want to listen to us that have done it, & do it CORRECTLY, don't ask for our help again! Ray.

I do have two threads relating to one issue but with different questions that apply in different areas.
One - was a torque question
two - being this one, a sealant material question

I did it how you and others recommended the first time and it did not work, I am now looking for a alternate solution.

I dont see why that is a reason to be a dick about it, but whatever....I got this far with it I am sure I will figure it out on my own then.

[rapidray]

I did it how you and others recommended the first time and it did not work, I am now looking for a alternate solution.

So, you replaced the copper oring with stainless or piano wire & tried it again? Did you retorque the head after heat cycling it, BEFORE running it hard? I didn't think so. If you don't like the advice you get, don't ask. I wasn't being a dick, I was telling it like it is. I've built close to a thousand GS motors in the 34 years I've been into them & have NO problems getting them to seal. You didn't retorque the head before you put the motor on boost! Heck, even half of the BEGINNERS on this site know better than that! Ray.

[posplayr]

So, you replaced the copper oring with stainless or piano wire & tried it again? Did you retorque the head after heat cycling it, BEFORE running it hard? I didn't think so. If you don't like the advice you get, don't ask. I wasn't being a dick, I was telling it like it is. I've built close to a thousand GS motors in the 34 years I've been into them & have NO problems getting them to seal. You didn't retorque the head before you put the motor on boost! Heck, even half of the BEGINNERS on this site know better than that! Ray.

Ray, he probably wants to invent a new process so he can post it here for others to see. It is called NIH (Not Invented here)

[gsryder]

So, you replaced the copper oring with stainless or piano wire & tried it again? Did you retorque the head after heat cycling it, BEFORE running it hard? I didn't think so. If you don't like the advice you get, don't ask. I wasn't being a dick, I was telling it like it is. I've built close to a thousand GS motors in the 34 years I've been into them & have NO problems getting them to seal. You didn't retorque the head before you put the motor on boost! Heck, even half of the BEGINNERS on this site know better than that! Ray.

I have not taken it apart yet......however I did pull the valve cover and double check the torque on all the head studs they were right at 30lbs just like when I originaly assembled....again however I probably should have torqued to 40lbs and preformaed a retorque like you have already mentioned.

I dont know why you keep mentioning the copper wire its not leaking compression it is leaking oil.

I was mearly asking if anyone has used any alternative products and your "telling it like it is"....well sir is being a dick.

But that is okay gaska cintch it is then.........and I suppose if you drink Bud Light there is no other beer that will quench your thirst either.

[gsryder]

Ray, he probably wants to invent a new process so he can post it here for others to see. It is called NIH (Not Invented here)

Really....thats pretty funny.
Again, I was just asking for more than one opinion on something and now I am gonna get flammed

"invent a new process"......no

Just for the record after doing some of my own reaserch one of your highly recomended engine builders who is mentioned frenquently on this site (who is not a member) also uses three bond for his base and head gaskets from time to time

But again whatever thanks for the constructive comments.

[hampshirehog]

Ok to bowl a googly? You could try green hermetite; it'll seal but beware only 2 things will survive armageddon - cockroaches and green hermetite.

It was standard fare on 50s to 70s stuff and is an old fashioned answer. It does 'what it says on the tin' and if you can live with it why not - it's an alternative. Don't sit on the tube though!

[posplayr]

Really....thats pretty funny.
Again, I was just asking for more than one opinion on something and now I am gonna get flammed

"invent a new process"......no

Just for the record after doing some of my own reaserch one of your highly recomended engine builders who is mentioned frenquently on this site (who is not a member) also uses three bond for his base and head gaskets from time to time

But again whatever thanks for the constructive comments.

The problem is not in asking an opinion; you claimed that what Ray told you did not work when in fact it appears as if you did not follow 2/3 of what he had suggested.

There is usually more than one way to accomplish the same task, (that is a given). However when someone with years of experience tells you something that you simply dismiss as "not working", well that is a bit disrespectful to say the least.

That only reinforces the sense of experienced people that really know what they are doing around here to get the attitude "why bother". That doesn't help anybody and is only a negative to the GSR.

[JEEPRUSTY]

Ah puffery by the experts.
Bitching a user out simply for asking a question that was never actually answered is damnably rude.

The question was:
Has anyone used the threebond 1194 on copper gaskets?

No one answered that they just got ****y about the method that works for them being questioned.
The gall of these questioners!

[posplayr]

Ah puffery by the experts.
Bitching a user out simply for asking a question that was never actually answered is damnably rude.

The question was:
Has anyone used the threebond 1194 on copper gaskets?

No one answered that they just got ****y about the method that works for them being questioned.
The gall of these questioners!

I did it how you and others recommended the first time and it did not work, I am now looking for a alternate solution.

...........................................

[gsryder]

The problem is not in asking an opinion; you claimed that what Ray told you did not work when in fact it appears as if you did not follow 2/3 of what he had suggested.

There is usually more than one way to accomplish the same task, (that is a given). However when someone with years of experience tells you something that you simply dismiss as "not working", well that is a bit disrespectful to say the least.

That only reinforces the sense of experienced people that really know what they are doing around here to get the attitude "why bother". That doesn't help anybody and is only a negative to the GSR.

I am really not trying to start a ****ing match here, I like this site and have got allot of valuable info from it. In fact a fair amount from Ray.

With that being said....the only thing that I did not do (1/3) was re-torque the head bolts after the first few heat cycles...could be the down fall to my issue.......however when I removed the valve cover and checked the head bolts they were still at the original 30lbs that I set them at per the manual. They were not loose and or did not settle/flex.

The copper wire he keeps referring to does not have anything to do with oil squirting out from the base gasket, they are installed for aid in compression leaks....not a problem here.

Maybe I would not have had a issue had I torqued originally to 40lbs as Ray said, but I was not aware of that when I was originally assembling my engine and had gathered info else where that the factory torque specs with the APE studs would be adequate, actually I was advised not to over torque for danger of pulling / damaging the stud threads in the case.

The bike is ****ing oil almost as if there is no gasket at all, leading me to believe in my particular circumstance the Gaska cintch is just not adequate.

And yes all surfaces were checked for damage, flatness, and thoroughly cleaned. I may not be a "expert" but I can assemble a engine (contrary to current believes)

I did not intend or mean any disrespect just simply looking for a stronger solution to my problem and asked if anyone used the three bond product.

I have come to find out further that three bond does in fact make several products specifically for these applications, and apparently are fairly popular.

Next time I will refrain posting on sensitive issues.