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    #16
    Originally posted by metalman View Post
    Right you are, but as long as I don't get out of bed on the retarded side can do the math in head. Although sure with OpenOffice there will be no brain farts to deal with.
    The only thing you really have to remember is that in METRIC, your range is 0.03 to 0.08 mm and the shims will change it by 0.05 mm, which is the entire range.

    If you measure in INCHES, the range is 0.001 to 0.003", and the shims will change it 0.002, which is still the entire range.

    The only exception is the use of "X" shims, which are about half-way between the full sizes.

    .
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      #17
      Originally posted by Steve View Post
      The only thing you really have to remember is that in METRIC, your range is 0.03 to 0.08 mm and the shims will change it by 0.05 mm, which is the entire range.

      If you measure in INCHES, the range is 0.001 to 0.003", and the shims will change it 0.002, which is still the entire range.

      The only exception is the use of "X" shims, which are about half-way between the full sizes.

      .
      That all sounds good as a rule of thumb, but some of my shims are either X or just plain worn as they measure in between. IMO If you can't afford or won't use calipers you don't need to be working on your machine. On another note am happy to have not waited two hundred miles to redo the valves as the 300 we had in the #1ex. was tight enough that couldn't fit a feeler gauge so swapped #1 in. to a 265 and have 10mm clearance. Am thinking carbon build up is pretty much gone but if not the bike will let me know when to recheck valves. On yet another note if you still have the same Locktite throw it away as the nut on cam chain tensioner you took apart to check my rebuild fell off, glad I was paying attention.

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