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compression diminishes to nothing from 1 to 4
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Paul's Zuki
Originally posted by mike_of_bbg View Post
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Mar 2006
- 35618
- Torrance, CA
You should have pulled the valves out of the head, cleaned everything, and replace the valve stem seals. Those seals lead a very rough life with the high heat and all, and leakage is very common.
Edit: just reread this thread and as I understand it you split the cases and everything but didn't service the head or even check the valve clearances? Geeze man, what where you thinking?Last edited by Nessism; 07-13-2011, 12:40 PM.Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
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Originally posted by Nessism View PostYou should have pulled the valves out of the head, cleaned everything, and replace the valve stem seals. Those seals lead a very rough life with the high heat and all, and leakage is very common.
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Paul's Zuki
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Paul's Zuki
How do you remove the valve stem seals. My book only says that I should replace is there is movement left to right (i'm replacing them anyways b/c they are old azz hell), but it doesn't say how to remove them. It says if replacement needed, special tools are needed and should be taken to a suzuki service tech (of course). Will it really be that hard? any advice?
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MisterCinders
The special tools are for the valve guides. Leave those alone. The valve guides have oil seals on the end inside the spring (No. 14 in the fiche image) that should be pulled and replaced. They pull straight off like a cap, but can be tough to yank out of there. Some needle-nose pliers and arm strength will do the trick.
Note that the oil seals will not survive removal, even brand-new ones. So when you replace the seals, make sure the valve spring seat is in position, or you will waste a new oil seal, when you have to pull it apart to install the seat.Last edited by Guest; 07-14-2011, 12:22 PM.
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Paul's Zuki
So, let me get this straight, the valve guide isn't in this diagram, right? its attached to the valve cylinder head?
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MisterCinders
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Paul's Zuki
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Mar 2006
- 35618
- Torrance, CA
The seals are #14 in the camshaft drawing.Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
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gearhead13
I would strongly suggest at least lapping and leak testing the valves when they are out. If the seats are real bad you might need them recut.
There is an old saying: "do it right or dont do it at all" What my dad always told me.
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MisterCinders
Originally posted by gearhead13 View PostI would strongly suggest at least lapping and leak testing the valves when they are out. If the seats are real bad you might need them recut.
There is an old saying: "do it right or dont do it at all" What my dad always told me.
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Paul's Zuki
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Paul's Zuki
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