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    #16
    Originally posted by mike_of_bbg View Post
    Did you track the buckets and shims and put them back to the valves where they came from?

    If you don't have anyone locally you can get them from (check your dealer if you have one they may have some in stock), Z1 Enterprises sells them for about $5 each plus shipping; they also sell the shim tool for about $15 IIRC. Another source is the Shim Club here run by member ghostgs1; as a member (which requires shim or monetary donation) you can exchange shims. Forum searches will get you there. Make sure you get Suzuki 29.5mm shims, not Kawasaki 29mm ones. Having a very thin measuring shim gives you something to swap in and measure when there's no clearance at all.

    If your valves are hanging open you'll probably need to go down two sizes to get them in range. If you can't measure the gap with a .03mm feeler or 0.0015" then try turning the bucket by hand. If it doesn't turn easily then you have 0 or negative clearance. Have calipers or a micrometer handy as many times the printed size will have worn off.
    Yes, I did track the buckets and shims to each valve. I will make note of that when checking. Oh, the beauty of working on our old beloved bikes.

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      #17
      You should have pulled the valves out of the head, cleaned everything, and replace the valve stem seals. Those seals lead a very rough life with the high heat and all, and leakage is very common.

      Edit: just reread this thread and as I understand it you split the cases and everything but didn't service the head or even check the valve clearances? Geeze man, what where you thinking?
      Last edited by Nessism; 07-13-2011, 12:40 PM.
      Ed

      To measure is to know.

      Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

      Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

      Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

      KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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        #18
        Originally posted by Nessism View Post
        You should have pulled the valves out of the head, cleaned everything, and replace the valve stem seals. Those seals lead a very rough life with the high heat and all, and leakage is very common.
        Not to mention they are 33 years old and hard as a rock!
        http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

        Life is too short to ride an L.

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          #19
          well, looks like I got some work ahead of me.

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            #20
            How do you remove the valve stem seals. My book only says that I should replace is there is movement left to right (i'm replacing them anyways b/c they are old azz hell), but it doesn't say how to remove them. It says if replacement needed, special tools are needed and should be taken to a suzuki service tech (of course). Will it really be that hard? any advice?

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              #21



              The special tools are for the valve guides. Leave those alone. The valve guides have oil seals on the end inside the spring (No. 14 in the fiche image) that should be pulled and replaced. They pull straight off like a cap, but can be tough to yank out of there. Some needle-nose pliers and arm strength will do the trick.

              Note that the oil seals will not survive removal, even brand-new ones. So when you replace the seals, make sure the valve spring seat is in position, or you will waste a new oil seal, when you have to pull it apart to install the seat.
              Last edited by Guest; 07-14-2011, 12:22 PM.

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                #22
                So, let me get this straight, the valve guide isn't in this diagram, right? its attached to the valve cylinder head?

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                  #23
                  Correct. The guide is the bullet-like tube attached to the head.

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by Paul's Zuki View Post
                    So, let me get this straight, the valve guide isn't in this diagram, right? its attached to the valve cylinder head?
                    They are #3 and #2 on the head fiche.

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                      #25
                      Okay. this makes a lot of sense now. thanks Guys.

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                        #26
                        The seals are #14 in the camshaft drawing.
                        Ed

                        To measure is to know.

                        Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                        Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                        Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                        KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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                          #27
                          I would strongly suggest at least lapping and leak testing the valves when they are out. If the seats are real bad you might need them recut.
                          There is an old saying: "do it right or dont do it at all" What my dad always told me.

                          Comment


                            #28
                            Originally posted by gearhead13 View Post
                            I would strongly suggest at least lapping and leak testing the valves when they are out. If the seats are real bad you might need them recut.
                            There is an old saying: "do it right or dont do it at all" What my dad always told me.
                            Yeah, pulling all that crap apart makes it worth doing everything inside. Once you have the valves and springs out, check them, tighten them up, etc. Putting them back together is pretty maddening, so you won't want to do it again for a long time.

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                              #29
                              can someone explain lapping to me. I understand its for the valve seat, but that's it.

                              Comment


                                #30
                                I just saw an explanation. Can I find the compound at an auto store?

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