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compression diminishes to nothing from 1 to 4
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mike_of_bbg
Are you talking free end gap or compressed in the cylinder? 4mm is actually below the service limit for free end gap (5.2mm min). Service limit for gap in the cylinder is 0.7mm max.
Originally posted by Paul's Zuki View Post
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mike_of_bbg
Dang. Free shipping no less. Gotta be losing money on that one.
Originally posted by Nessism View PostThis is almost too cheap to be true... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/82-Su...item4cf82b943b
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Paul's Zuki
I dont understand and I'm so freaking frustrated.
so after figuring out I didn't have sufficient compression and 2 cylinders had no compression a top end rebuild was in order. This is what I did per advice from you guys, good advice, but I don't understand what's happenning.
replaced bad valves (2)
lapped all valves and did the leak test. (no leak)
checked clearances on valve shims and replaced 3 now all within spec
replaced valve guide seals
checked tolerances on valve springs(still in original spec)
flex honed the cylinder to find that they were scored so I purchased another and it immediately looked better.
flex honed those bores for about 40-60 second with a slow cordless drill. cleaned out very good and made sure a white towel came thru clean
replaced all piston rings and made sure the ring end gap was no more than .008"
replaced and used all oem seals & gaskets
Timing is all perfect and aligned per manual instructions
Still only getting about 60 psi per cylinder at least all are even now.
Please help. I'm getting to the end of the line with this build.Last edited by Guest; 08-06-2011, 01:15 AM.
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Did you seat the rings? Did you run it?1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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Flyboy
I have not read the whole thread in depth so apologies if these are stupid questions;
1 Did you make sure you installed the rings the right way up and not upside down?
2 Did you make sure you spaced the ring gaps roughly 120 degrees apart around the piston and not all lined up below each other?
3 Are you sure the battery is full and the engine is cranking at the correct speed when checking, could also be caused by a dragging starter?
4 Are the carbs being held wide open while checking, making sure there is no restriction?
5 have you checked for warpage on the head? may need to have it surfaced to get it straight.
Yes you can start it with 60psi and run it, it will increase with some running as the motor warms up and the clearances settle, but you should be getting more than that, I doubt very much it will double, something is wrong somewhere.
I know you said it was fine, but just for giggles, double/triple check your cam timing, I was frustrated for a week with a motor that would not run right, the timing was out one tooth even after I was convinced it was right, I had checked and double checked it, it happens.Last edited by Guest; 08-06-2011, 04:25 AM.
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mike_of_bbg
Even is better. 60 psi is disconcerting I'm sure to look at: but you need to get it running to seat the rings with the cylinder. The service limit for compression on early GS motors was actually 90 psi - and that is hot! Once it catches the compression strokes will be much quicker and there will be less opportunity for ring leakage.
Slap those carbs on and try to get her running.
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Paul's Zuki
Originally posted by Flyboy View PostI have not read the whole thread in depth so apologies if these are stupid questions;
1 Did you make sure you installed the rings the right way up and not upside down?Yes, installed the correct way
2 Did you make sure you spaced the ring gaps roughly 120 degrees apart around the piston and not all lined up below each other?Yes, spaced apart correctly as I was lowering head
3 Are you sure the battery is full and the engine is cranking at the correct speed when checking, could also be caused by a dragging starter? has been sitting for about a 2 weeks. Its a brand new battery, but will start charging to full this morning while installing carbs.
4 Are the carbs being held wide open while checking, making sure there is no restriction? when checking the compression just last night, I did not have carbs installed yet, only the boots, so, yeah, I guess it was fully open
5 have you checked for warpage on the head? may need to have it surfaced to get it straight. Did not check warpage per se, but the two heads I used were off bikes with only 9000 miles, surfaces were impeccable, from the first head when removed the gasket did look completely pressed
Yes you can start it with 60psi and run it, it will increase with some running as the motor warms up and the clearances settle, but you should be getting more than that, I doubt very much it will double, something is wrong somewhere.
I know you said it was fine, but just for giggles, double/triple check your cam timing, I was frustrated for a week with a motor that would not run right, the timing was out one tooth even after I was convinced it was right, I had checked and double checked it, it happens.
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Mar 2006
- 35618
- Torrance, CA
If you did everything right as you say I wouldn't worry about the compression yet. It will be fine. The engine needs to be run before you will get decent numbers.
Focus on making sure the cam timing is perfect, the cam chain tensioner is working properly and released, get the airbox installed and sealed, check spark, and make sure the carbs are clean and full of fuel. Do all this and the engine will start.
Good luckEd
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
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Paul's Zuki
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Originally posted by Paul's Zuki View PostThanks guys, you sure are giving me some hope. So, should I install the cam cover also?
You will get an oil shower if you don't.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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Paul's Zuki
so I got it all assembled. any good tips on first start ups? I've tried starting it up and nothing. any tips please
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mike_of_bbg
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Paul's Zuki
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Paul's Zuki
Ok. So let me ask this. my bowls have fuel in them. I did rebuild the carbs. But since vacum pulls fuel up from bowl how do i get vacuum? compression? If my compression is low to begin with how to i get it started up or how can i get fuel to the cylinders?
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