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Cam Timing --- GS1100EZ
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7981GS
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gearhead13
I dont know about this 19 pin for canada thing. Where is that from? I always set mine at 20 pins. I also degree them now so I know they are right.
The timing rotor has two T marks 180 deg apart, but only the #1 (correct one) has also the f and full advance marks as well.
Dont worry so much about the slots on the ends of the cams, just the #1 2 and 3 marks on the cam sprockets.
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FC, this is what I was saying in the other thread...
Originally posted by rapidray View PostThe numbers on the sprockets don't affect anything here. The slotted cam sprockets DO! You will need to degree the cams correctly to get it to run it's best. If they are stock cams you can just put some stock, not slotted sprockets back on them & install to factory specs. Someone has been in this thing & probably for a reason. Ray.
I would either get a correct sprocket OR set your setup to 20 pins and call it a day.GS850GT
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Flaming Chainsaws
It's setup back to 20 pins. The camshaft notches are still off but only a little.
Tried to start it and this is what happens. It backfires.
I checked the cam timing and it was way off. No wonder it wouldn't run.... Adjusted the timing and now at least it backfires.... HA!
Took off the can and midpipe and I see flames shoot out!
Timing is still off am I right?
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On the ignition at the crank look at the advance. It should say T and you should also see a 1&4. With it at the 1&4 T (top dead center 1&4) the pointer at the end of the crank should be pointed at the left pickup facing the bike.
With the engine at the proper TDC then time the cams with twenty pins between arrows.
If it is still a flame thrower you have bent or stuck valves.
Do you have clearance at your tappets?1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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Flaming Chainsaws
Originally posted by chef1366 View PostOn the ignition at the crank look at the advance. It should say T and you should also see a 1&4. With it at the 1&4 T (top dead center 1&4) the pointer at the end of the crank should be pointed at the left pickup facing the bike.
With the engine at the proper TDC then time the cams with twenty pins between arrows.
If it is still a flame thrower you have bent or stuck valves.
Do you have clearance at your tappets?
Is this wrong?
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I always found it hard to adjust my valve clearances with a full blade like that because you're angle of approach is not straight in. I modified my .004", .005", and .006 inch blades by cutting and bending the tip of it a bit. Much easier now.-1980 GS1100 LT
-1975 Honda cb750K
-1972 Honda cl175
- Currently presiding over a 1970 T500
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No that's right!
Now you need to ask yourself a few questions
Is the head good?
Are the carbs good?
Is the ignition good?
I'd do a compression check to rule out the head.
Are the plug wires on the right plugs?1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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Flaming Chainsaws
Originally posted by chef1366 View PostNo that's right!
Now you need to ask yourself a few questions
Is the head good?
Are the carbs good?
Is the ignition good?
I'd do a compression check to rule out the head.
Are the plug wires on the right plugs?
Carbs? Fuel gets to the float bowls and the sparkplugs are wet with gas.
Plug wires.... Coil 1 (left) is plugged into cylinders 1 and 4. Coil 2 (right) is plugged into cylinders 2 and 3. There's a guy on craigslist selling a brand new set of green 3 ohm Dyna DC1-1 coils with the wires and caps. Should I get that?
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FC, I've been following your other threads and I'm with "chef" - that bike should fire up nicely given all the work that you've done - so as you're still having troubles getting it to idle nicely I think something's NOT right somewhere (and i don't think the problem is something as small as valve clerances but something more serious)GS850GT
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Flaming Chainsaws
Originally posted by psyguy View PostFC, I've been following your other threads and I'm with "chef" - that bike should fire up nicely given all the work that you've done - so as you're still having troubles getting it to idle nicely I think something's NOT right somewhere (and i don't think the problem is something as small as valve clerances but something more serious)
Damn... If it's something serious, then I most likely can't fix it and can't afford it. What now? I don't want to give up on this bike but I will have to if there is any serious damage to the engine..... Unless someone has another good engine.
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There's often members on this friendly forum who are prepared to help out a fellow GSR member if they live in the same area - so that's worth looking into - as it can be pretty hard to diagnose a fault through the forum only and having someone go over it in person is worth a lot. I'm tooo far away thoughGS850GT
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Flaming Chainsaws
Originally posted by psyguy View PostThere's often members on this friendly forum who are prepared to help out a fellow GSR member if they live in the same area - so that's worth looking into - as it can be pretty hard to diagnose a fault through the forum only and having someone go over it in person is worth a lot. I'm tooo far away though
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gearhead13
From the speed that it was turning over with the starter i dont think there is much compression there.
Were the cam sprockets on the cams when you got them? Because the sprockets can be mounted 180 deg out as well.
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