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green slime coming from drive shaft
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You need to drop the rear wheel, seperate the final drive, remove the boot and drive shaft. Youll see 4 bolts on the flange. Remove the bolts and slowly and carefully remove the gear. Theres a seal in there ( usually an Oring ) thats leaking. youll need to pry gently all around the flange and twist on the gear at the same time to coax it off. Darin the final drive oil, primary oil and inspect the final drive and splinbe while its all apart . That will get a lot of the drive train inspection and main tenance out of the way. It may even help to drop the swingarm to give even more working room if you need it.MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550
NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.
I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.
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mighty13d
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Mar 2006
- 35712
- Torrance, CA
Yup, gear oil. Secondary reduction gear seal is mostly leaking.Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
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Draddy
Originally posted by chuck hahn View PostYou need to drop the rear wheel, seperate the final drive, remove the boot and drive shaft. Youll see 4 bolts on the flange. Remove the bolts and slowly and carefully remove the gear. Theres a seal in there ( usually an Oring ) thats leaking. youll need to pry gently all around the flange and twist on the gear at the same time to coax it off. Darin the final drive oil, primary oil and inspect the final drive and splinbe while its all apart . That will get a lot of the drive train inspection and main tenance out of the way. It may even help to drop the swingarm to give even more working room if you need it.
I'd love to do just this, do you know where to find which parts I would need? honestly, I'm okay just purchasing a ton of new parts to throw in... in 30 years I'm sure it wouldn't hurt to just replace everything.
specifically what size oring do I need to buy and replace to stop the leak?
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Dont know the exact size...check the parts schematics..In any case its not gonna magically get in there. Just tear it down and go get the oring.MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550
NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.
I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.
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BassCliff
Hi,
Originally posted by Draddy View PostI'd love to do just this, do you know where to find which parts I would need?
Click on the year of your bike, click the model, Click the big red "Find Your OEM Parts" button, and surf the fiche.
There are a lot more vendors to choose from in your "mega-welcome".
What bike do you have anyway?
Thank you for your indulgence,
BassCliff
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Draddy
Originally posted by BassCliff View PostHi,
I buy a lot of stuff from here:
Click on the year of your bike, click the model, Click the big red "Find Your OEM Parts" button, and surf the fiche.
There are a lot more vendors to choose from in your "mega-welcome".
What bike do you have anyway?
Thank you for your indulgence,
BassCliff
All I have to do now is fix this leak, and replace the strator and SA, or RA or whatever it's called, and the bike will be golden.
It starts instantly with a single button push without choke. It's a blast to ride.
pictures can be found here: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=177910
Oh yeah, and the clutch is slipping unfortunately, so I guess I have to replace that as well.
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Mar 2006
- 35712
- Torrance, CA
Draddy,
If you use the Advanced Search feature (hint: use the "title only" feature and search on key words) you can find TONS of good info here on how to best fix your bike. For example: check the charging system before you go off replacing expensive parts which may not need changing. Same goes for a slipping clutch; most of the time all you need is new OE springs and a clutch cover gasket.
Good luck and hope you get that bike sorted soon.Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
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Draddy
Thanks for all your help guys.
After reviewing some more, it's actually not on the final drive side... it's on the boot side towards the engine.
if you look at this leak, it's where the boot (5) meet the main piece (1), around 8.
I can replace piece 8 no problem, but what is the green slime? where's it coming from?Last edited by Guest; 08-09-2011, 11:02 PM.
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