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    Cluch slipping in third...

    ...and I was going to replace the clutch springs, but thought "Why not replace the clutches as well?".

    So, it this is a hard job? I plan to take of the side cases anyways to paint.

    Is there a place to get performance clutches for my 650?

    #2
    There is a 80% chance that simply changing the springs will solve the slipping problem.
    Ed

    To measure is to know.

    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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      #3
      Hi,

      You can check for wear on the clutch plates (fibers and steels). There are service limits in the manual. But I concur with Mr. Nessism, springs are probably all you need.


      Thank you for your indulgence,

      BassCliff

      Comment


        #4
        Really? The springs will cause it to slip pretty badly huh? It pulls great until about midway through 3rd.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by Krunk_Kracker View Post
          Really? The springs will cause it to slip pretty badly huh? It pulls great until about midway through 3rd.
          New clutch springs didn't eliminate all of my slippage on my 1980 Suzuki GS750L, 25,000 miles. (I even used the heavier duty ones)

          Comment


            #6
            The fiber plates sometimes petrify after 30 years. If new OEM springs don't fix the problem then it's time for plates. I'd try the springs first though, they are cheaper.
            Ed

            To measure is to know.

            Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

            Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

            Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

            KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Nessism View Post
              The fiber plates sometimes petrify after 30 years. If new OEM springs don't fix the problem then it's time for plates. I'd try the springs first though, they are cheaper.
              good advice.

              greg
              1983 GS 1100 ESD :D

              Comment


                #8
                Its an easy job, you might be lucky and get away with changing just the springs. I wasn't.
                So now I have to open it up again to change the clutch plates, which annoys me since the oil will need to be replaced at the same time too...
                Anyways, drain the oil, remove the kick(if you have one), unscrew the bolts holding the clutchcover and place something underneath the cover as some oil WILL leak once you start loosening and prying open the cover.
                Once the cover is off, unbolt the six springs and then remove the clutch pack, easy
                Assemble with a new clutch-cover gasket and new oil.

                Comment


                  #9
                  If you can do it safely, you can tip the bike and change the clutch without replacing the oil. However, you probably should, especially if you spend a lot of time cleaning off the old gasket. But if you go in a second time to swap springs or change plates, you can definitely do it without changing the oil.

                  I just did a GS650GL. I put two 2x6's under the rear tire and then put it on the side stand. I used a strap from the rafters on the handlebar to prevent a full tip over as it VERY tippy at this point.

                  I found the 6 EBC clutch springs to be far too stiff for my liking as I ride this bike the most and in traffic. I did as recommended on other posts and used 3 of them, with 3 old springs, for a good compromise feel. The bike still jumps hard when you dump the clutch, a sign of a solid hookup with no slip at all.

                  Supposedly new OEM springs would result in a similar feel. My plates were within spec width wise, so springs alone probably would have solved the problem.
                  Yamaha fz1 2007

                  Comment


                    #10
                    There isn't a kicker on his bike. However, he will have to remove the brake lever, and possibly the footpeg as it is sort of in the way. Cleaning the gasket surface is a blast.....


                    Originally posted by Spiff View Post
                    Its an easy job, you might be lucky and get away with changing just the springs. I wasn't.
                    So now I have to open it up again to change the clutch plates, which annoys me since the oil will need to be replaced at the same time too...
                    Anyways, drain the oil, remove the kick(if you have one), unscrew the bolts holding the clutchcover and place something underneath the cover as some oil WILL leak once you start loosening and prying open the cover.
                    Once the cover is off, unbolt the six springs and then remove the clutch pack, easy
                    Assemble with a new clutch-cover gasket and new oil.
                    Yamaha fz1 2007

                    Comment


                      #11
                      oh yeah, the brake lever. I thought about removing it but managed to get the cover off by depressing the lever slightly
                      And yes, remember to clean the gasket surface, I forgot and the new gasket wouldn't seal properly so had to take everything apart again :P lesson learned

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