Idle problems after head gasket replacement

[Tom R]

I've been using a Craftsman beam type for about 15 years without complaint. They're generally easier on the wallet than the click type and convenient enough for the amount of use most of us give a torque wrench.

[chef1366]

Adjusted the cam timing. It was just a hair off from when I drawn in the cams from the first time. so this time it was perfect, until, until snap!

Damn cheap click torque wrench. It was working fine, clicking at the right time until it decided to stop clicking and start jacking chit up. I threw that thing in the trash, successfully removed the broken part and I am waiting on the new bolt before in the mail before i continue.

Meanwhile, in the market for a new torque wrench. Looking for recommendations. Anyone care to share?

Which one did you break?
I hope it runs well after you get it buttoned up!

[chef1366]

I've been using a Craftsman beam type for about 15 years without complaint. They're generally easier on the wallet than the click type and convenient enough for the amount of use most of us give a torque wrench.

Don't tell Keith! This could turn into a one-hundred page thread about the pros and cons of cheap torque wrenches!

[Sunburn]

Which one did you break?
I hope it runs well after you get it buttoned up!

6MM cam cap bolt on "C". Sad part was it sounded like a click, but felt like a snap, pulled out the bolt intact! Scratched my head, looked fine put it back in, then it snapped clean with the slightest load on it. pulled out half and just smiled.

[chef1366]

6MM cam cap bolt on "C". Sad part was it sounded like a click, but felt like a snap, pulled out the bolt intact! Scratched my head, looked fine put it back in, then it snapped clean with the slightest load on it. pulled out half and just smiled.

I learned my lesson with those. You either break the bolts or pull the threads out of the hole.
I never put more than a couple of pounds on those.

[Sunburn]

I think my problem might be related to the cam tensioner installation.

I get the cams installed perfect. No slack in chain between exaust cam and the crank, arrows good, pin marks good.

I follow the instructions on the tensioner install, it requires to turn the tensioner counter clock wise while reversing the crank shaft, this part seems to go fine. The cams turn along with crank as it should.


Then it requires you to turn the crank in the normal direction and the dial on the tensioner should spin taking up the slack. And it does but while i do this the cams stop turning while picking up this play thus are then slightly off. Afterwords the cams turn fine with no slack or delay.

What am i doing wrong with this procedure.? Should i skip it and just turn clockwise once tensioner is installed and released.

[Sunburn]

Anyone? Throw me a bone.

[earlfor]

I think my problem might be related to the cam tensioner installation.

I get the cams installed perfect. No slack in chain between exaust cam and the crank, arrows good, pin marks good.

I follow the instructions on the tensioner install, it requires to turn the tensioner counter clock wise while reversing the crank shaft, this part seems to go fine. The cams turn along with crank as it should.


Then it requires you to turn the crank in the normal direction and the dial on the tensioner should spin taking up the slack. And it does but while i do this the cams stop turning while picking up this play thus are then slightly off. Afterwords the cams turn fine with no slack or delay.

What am i doing wrong with this procedure.? Should i skip it and just turn clockwise once tensioner is installed and released.

Whoever wrote those instructions for installing the cam chain tensioner I suspect has never installed one before. They're backwards!

Unbolt and remove the cam chain tensioner from the engine.

Take a 19mm wrench and rotate the crankshaft clockwise until the cams are on the marks with a 20 pin spacing arrow to arrow as you did. Under NO circumstance are you allowed to turn the engine counterclockwise. If you miss a cam mark, go around again. Repeat....do not turn the engine backwards. It tensions the cam chain on the wrong side.

Once you have cams set correctly. You can install the tensioner.
I have stolen part of one of Nessims posts since he gave perfect instructions for this.


Before installing the tensioner back into the engine you first need to make sure the set screw is loose, then turn the knob while simultaneously pushing the plunger back into the tensioner body. Hold the plunger inward and snug down the set screw so the plunger can not spring back out.

Install the tensioner back into the engine and then release the lock screw. The tensioner plunger will spring out with an audible noise. BACK OFF the set screw about 1/2 turn from the release point and set the lock nut tight.

If you removed the tensioner without locking down the plunger, and then reinstalled the tensioner without resetting the plunger back into the tensioner body, then indeed your cam chain will be too tight.

Earl

[mike-s]

I was going to say something, but earl has got it exactly.

[Sunburn]

Whoever wrote those instructions for installing the cam chain tensioner I suspect has never installed one before. They're backwards!

I've never installed one, but your instructions sound much better then the one from the book. I figured something was wrong with this process or i was implementing it wrong. I just needed some confirmation.

Make no mistake about it the Suzuki service manual does ask you to rotate the crankshaft counter clock wise while turning the the knob on the tensinoer after it is installed to the same instructions above. Granted it says turn slowly. Never the less i could tell this is where my problems developed and needed some piratical hands on experience were the book could not help.



Thank you for responding.

[earlfor]

I've never installed one, but your instructions sound much better then the one from the book. I figured something was wrong with this process or i was implementing it wrong. I just needed some confirmation.

Make no mistake about it the Suzuki service manual does ask you to rotate the crankshaft counter clock wise while turning the the knob on the tensinoer after it is installed to the same instructions above. Granted it says turn slowly. Never the less i could tell this is where my problems developed and needed some piratical hands on experience were the book could not help.



Thank you for responding.

There can be mistakes, even in factory service manuals. It isn't the first time. heh I didn't respond earlier because it was going well and there was nothing I could add. Then you hit a glitch and..............

Earl

[Sunburn]

Alright, after taking the cams in and out another 5 times perfection on the notches does not seem to be possible. I adjusted the valves and sealed it back up.

I pulled all the carb boots off and inspected them, found two to be very warn to the point it may cause a leak. I ordered 4 new ones and put them on today.

The bike started easy, got it warmed up but still did not like the idle but it seemed better then before. Using the throttle stop screw idle adjuster on the carbs i would obtain a nice idle then when i rev'ed the motor, the idle would stay too high or take for ever to lower back down. I'm i dealing with just a simple throttle cable, idle adjustment issue here or is there a vacuum leak mixed in?

[Sunburn]

Wanted to update this old post for anyone searching the history like I do all the time trying to solve my problems and learn from others.

I moved into a new house and a lot has happened so the bike has just sat, I got going on it again and have now solved the problem. This is after I worked many hours on the carbs and even installed the coil relay mod. Nothing was solving my idle problem.

Well, I checked the compression again and found 115,120,125, 150.

Ray had asked me if I measured the bore when I did the head gasket to insure I had the right gasket. I did not.

I tore the motor back down, found the bore at 73.5mm and my gasket stock at 72mm

Got new gaskets from Ray and installed them. It ran good right away, problem solved. Lesson learned, had to do the job twice.

Just checked compression and it's 150, 165, 150 ,175.

Hopefully no other issues come up from my work, but it appears to be running good and oil tight. Plan to re-torque the head tomorrow. Waiting for my DMV tags to come in and i'm going riding.