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Replaced clutch cable, now chain / sprocket noise

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    #16
    Jeez man.

    This is gonna sound like I'm busting your balls a bit maybe but I only say it because I don't want to see another GS brother hurt.

    One, that sprocket is trash. And because of that so is the rear sprocket and the chain. Pitch it and get a new set (you can get a 530 sprocket set and chain from Z1 for around $150 shipped last I bought one)
    Two, if those shop idiots couldnt install your front tire correctly, chances are better than good that they didn't do the rear right either.
    This can cause mis-alignment of your chain, and will ruin a sprocket set and chain pretty quick. Again, pitch it all and buy a new set-up. A thrown chain can cause a lot of trouble, the least of which is being stuck on the side of the road.

    Three: proper chain care requires that you clean and lube the chain every 400-600 miles. If you ride much, that's basically two or three times a month at least. And you need to learn how to align your chain correctly. Failure to do so, as I said, will make trash out of the whole lot in short order. There are lots of threads on the subject, and all over the web. Do a search.
    Use wd40 or kerosene to clean the chain, and a proper wax/grease made for chains to lube it.

    Lastly, quit taking your bike to a bloody shop. Those ass hats are going to get you killed!

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      #17
      Originally posted by scott View Post
      I was thinking that reducing the amount of play at the lever would cause the clutch to grab earlier. I have the free play fairly low now (around 2.25mm I think) so I don't think I can make it much tighter. I'll double-check that though.
      I misread your freeplay- my setup is different at clutch end- but there must be some adjustment at clutch end to effect engagenent point. Heed theCafeKid's advice regarding chain/ sprocket- you can get away with some sad looking parts on dirt bikes (and I did), but 70 mph on street is more demanding.
      1981 gs650L

      "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

      Comment


        #18
        Originally posted by TheCafeKid View Post
        Jeez man.

        This is gonna sound like I'm busting your balls a bit maybe but I only say it because I don't want to see another GS brother hurt.

        One, that sprocket is trash. And because of that so is the rear sprocket and the chain. Pitch it and get a new set (you can get a 530 sprocket set and chain from Z1 for around $150 shipped last I bought one)
        Two, if those shop idiots couldnt install your front tire correctly, chances are better than good that they didn't do the rear right either.
        This can cause mis-alignment of your chain, and will ruin a sprocket set and chain pretty quick. Again, pitch it all and buy a new set-up. A thrown chain can cause a lot of trouble, the least of which is being stuck on the side of the road.

        Three: proper chain care requires that you clean and lube the chain every 400-600 miles. If you ride much, that's basically two or three times a month at least. And you need to learn how to align your chain correctly. Failure to do so, as I said, will make trash out of the whole lot in short order. There are lots of threads on the subject, and all over the web. Do a search.
        Use wd40 or kerosene to clean the chain, and a proper wax/grease made for chains to lube it.

        Lastly, quit taking your bike to a bloody shop. Those ass hats are going to get you killed!
        Ha - I appreciate the advice - if it seems like I don't know any better, I probably don't. I thought the front sprocket looked pretty bad but I wasn't sure where to put it on the priority list - it sounds like at the top with the brake overhaul. Is this in the severity level of "don't ride the bike until addressed"?

        Originally posted by tom203 View Post
        I misread your freeplay- my setup is different at clutch end- but there must be some adjustment at clutch end to effect engagenent point.
        On my bike there's 3 adjustments - at the lever, at the sprocket cover and a helix screw under a small cover on the sprocket cover. I guess it may be the helix screw adjustment I need to look at - instructions say "screw in until resistance is felt, then back out 1/4 - 1/2 turn". I'm not sure whether turned in more or less would result in an earlier engagement point but I would assume turned in more.

        Comment


          #19
          Actually the teeth on that sprocket look pretty good. It's the rust that got my attention.
          Josh brought up a good point about alignment. Make sure the marks on the swingarm match on both sides.
          1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
          1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

          Comment


            #20
            Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
            Actually the teeth on that sprocket look pretty good. It's the rust that got my attention.
            Josh brought up a good point about alignment. Make sure the marks on the swingarm match on both sides.
            Yeah I'll agree from thy pic the teeth don't look bad, but keep in mind that the traditional "shark" tooth look isn't the only sign of a bad sprocket. Often, especially when they've been mis-aligned, you'll get a high, hooked or twisted tooth or teeth. Plus, rust, dirt, grime etc, left on the chain and sprockets act as tiny little files. They get between the links, between the peens on the chain and work back and forth, wearing on both the chain and sprockets. Links get stiff, loose, bind... It's just a whole lotta not good for it. With the amount of rust you have going on there, I'd seriously look into replacement. That's not to say you can't ride it till then, clean it all up and see what it feels like. (after a good cleaning and lube, and after assurig the alignment is correct, spin the back wheel slowly, and feel with your hand on the wheel if there are any spots where it doesn't feel smooth... If so, I'd reconsider riding it at all. I had a chain fall apart in my hand after riding on a bad one thinking I could get some more miles out of it. I was very lucky). Replaced, and properly maintained, you should get easily 10-15000 miles out of a modern Oring chain and sprockets. But you gotta keep it clean brutha.

            Comment


              #21
              Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
              Actually the teeth on that sprocket look pretty good. It's the rust that got my attention.
              Josh brought up a good point about alignment. Make sure the marks on the swingarm match on both sides.
              It doesn't seem like it will be too long before the rust reaches the teeth so I'll put it high on the list of things to do.

              The swingarm marks seem pretty close - both just shy of the fourth mark. The right-side may be a bit further if they should be exactly the same to the millimeter - it could just be the angle of the photos though. If that could be the cause of the noise, I'll try to get them closer.

              Left:


              Right:

              Comment


                #22
                That's good
                Rusty old chains are very noisy don't ya know Bobby.
                Does the chain get loose and tight as you rotate the rear wheel?
                1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                Comment


                  #23
                  Originally posted by TheCafeKid View Post
                  Yeah I'll agree from thy pic the teeth don't look bad, but keep in mind that the traditional "shark" tooth look isn't the only sign of a bad sprocket. Often, especially when they've been mis-aligned, you'll get a high, hooked or twisted tooth or teeth. Plus, rust, dirt, grime etc, left on the chain and sprockets act as tiny little files. They get between the links, between the peens on the chain and work back and forth, wearing on both the chain and sprockets. Links get stiff, loose, bind... It's just a whole lotta not good for it. With the amount of rust you have going on there, I'd seriously look into replacement. That's not to say you can't ride it till then, clean it all up and see what it feels like. (after a good cleaning and lube, and after assurig the alignment is correct, spin the back wheel slowly, and feel with your hand on the wheel if there are any spots where it doesn't feel smooth... If so, I'd reconsider riding it at all. I had a chain fall apart in my hand after riding on a bad one thinking I could get some more miles out of it. I was very lucky). Replaced, and properly maintained, you should get easily 10-15000 miles out of a modern Oring chain and sprockets. But you gotta keep it clean brutha.
                  Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
                  That's good
                  Rusty old chains are very noisy don't ya know Bobby.
                  Does the chain get loose and tight as you rotate the rear wheel?
                  I've cleaned the chain since that first pic but there's still some gunk in there on the inner links. I'm going to get a "Gunk Brush" and try to get the rest of it out.

                  I'll try to find a more consistent way to measure the slack in several places to see if it's getting loose and tight. I definitely don't want the chain breaking while riding.

                  Comment


                    #24
                    You can feel it as you spin the back tire with it on the center stand.
                    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                    Comment


                      #25
                      Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
                      You can feel it as you spin the back tire with it on the center stand.
                      I don't trust myself on these "feel" things but I just gave it another try and I do think there is a harder section and easier section when turning the rear wheel. The chains on its last legs I guess.

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