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Bead blasted head
I had a shop do a valve job on my 1978 gs750. They bead blasted the head and ground and reinstalled the valves. The head is still off the bike. I was reading the thread about start up after new piston rings and now I am worried about beads in the oil passages of my head. Is there a thread with some pics on cleaning a head after bead blasting? If drilling and tapping the plugs is the best way, I will do that. Should I pull the valves back out? Are the passages easy to find?Tags: None
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I think I would talk to the shop that did the work. If they are any good at all, they would have cleaned it thoroughly after bead blasting, and may have blocked the oil galleries before blasting.http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ine=1440711157'78 GS1000E, Dyna-S ignition, Dyna Green Coils, K&N pods, Delkevic SS 4-1 exhaust, Dynojet Stage 3 jet kit, Russell SS Brake Lines, Progressive suspension, Compu-Fire series Regulator 55402 and Advmonster cree LED headlight conversion.
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snyderman
Thanks for the reply.
I talked to the shop this morning and they assured me that it is clean. I will probably run some compressed air through it before I put everything back together.
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I would worry about carbs and things with tiny passages, but I don't think a stray bead in the oil gallery would pose much of a problem, supposing one did get in there.http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ine=1440711157'78 GS1000E, Dyna-S ignition, Dyna Green Coils, K&N pods, Delkevic SS 4-1 exhaust, Dynojet Stage 3 jet kit, Russell SS Brake Lines, Progressive suspension, Compu-Fire series Regulator 55402 and Advmonster cree LED headlight conversion.
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Mar 2006
- 35622
- Torrance, CA
I would NOT trust the shop, and strongly recommend that you remove the valves and clean the head yourself.
The oil galley transfer passages are plugged from the ends of the head so it's not easy to clean them out. The galleys run crossways with interconnection passages up to each cam bearing saddle and valve pocket. When cleaning out my own bead blasted head I first made sure it was fully degreased, since grit loves to cling because of the oil, followed by repeated water flush rinsing. I used copious amounts of Simple Green forced down the galley passages, valve guides, etc, followed by more rinsing. You can also use a small diameter bottle brush down the oil passages visible from the top of the head, followed by scrubbing down the entire head with brushes. When rinsing, pushing water up the outer stud passages is useful since this is where the oil flows up. You will have to cork the stud hole at the top other wise the water won't flow though the galley. I flushed and degreased the head at least three times before I called it good since even a small amount of grit in the galley passages will be tragic to the engine.
Good luck and hope this helps.Last edited by Nessism; 09-23-2011, 01:49 PM.Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
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Originally posted by Nessism View PostI would NOT trust the shop, and strongly recommend that you remove the valves and clean the head yourself.
The oil galley transfer passages are plugged from the ends of the head so it's not easy to clean them out. The galleys run crossways with interconnection passages up to each cam bearing saddle and valve pocket. When cleaning out my own bead blasted head I first made sure it was fully degreased, since grit loves to cling because of the oil, followed by repeated water flush rinsing. I used copious amounts of Simple Green forced down the galley passages, valve guides, etc, followed by more rinsing. You can also use a small diameter bottle brush down the oil passages visible from the top of the head, followed by scrubbing down the entire head with brushes When rinsing, pushing water up the outer stud passages is useful since this is where the oil flows up. You will have to cork the stud hole at the top other wise the water won't flow though the galley. I flushed and degreased the head at least three times before I called it good since even a small amount of grit in the galley passages will be tragic to the engine.
Good luck and hope this helps.
I've seen too many cream crackered engines because the blast shop cleaned the head properly.79 GS1000S
79 GS1000S (another one)
80 GSX750
80 GS550
80 CB650 cafe racer
75 PC50 - the one with OHV and pedals...
75 TS100 - being ridden (suicidally) by my father
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Originally posted by hampshirehog View PostI disagree with Ed. I would do everything above but flush and degrease at least 4 times (and probably a few more times for good measure).
I've seen too many cream crackered engines because the blast shop cleaned the head properly.1978 GS1085.
Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!
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Originally posted by Agemax View Postdont you mean "they SAY they have cleaned it properly" wheras they probably havent!
The lads who blast my stuff will not bead blast heads - they know what's what.79 GS1000S
79 GS1000S (another one)
80 GSX750
80 GS550
80 CB650 cafe racer
75 PC50 - the one with OHV and pedals...
75 TS100 - being ridden (suicidally) by my father
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Originally posted by hampshirehog View PostI was attempting irony. They definitely cleaned that engine properly....
The lads who blast my stuff will not bead blast heads - they know what's what.1978 GS1085.
Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Mar 2006
- 35622
- Torrance, CA
I'll use soda blasting the next time I'm doing a cylinder head. I'll also spend more time sealing all the openings so grit can't get inside the internal passages. Vapor blasting sounds good, only I'd rather do things myself.Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
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Random thought I had while reading this thread...
I would also heli-coil or twinsert the spark plug holes while the head is off. I didn't think to do mine when I had the head off, but now the plugs are starting to bind & the threads are getting quite worn in the head. I've had to pull the plugs a lot to dial in the jetting & if I had to do it again, I would have installed heli-coils in those threads.
just a thought...'85 GS550L - SOLD
'85 GS550E - SOLD
'82 GS650GL - SOLD
'81 GS750L - SOLD
'82 GS850GL - trusty steed
'80 GS1100L - son's project bike
'82 GS1100G - SOLD
'81 GS1100E - Big Red (daily rider)
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I spent most of an afternoon pressure washing, air and rinsing a head and it still didn't get it all out.
I got a bag of this for my next job but the compressor I have doesn't have very much puff. so can only be used in short bursts, it is effective though.
sigpic
Don't say can't, as anything is possible with time and effort, but, if you don't have time things get tougher and require more effort.
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Originally posted by tatu View PostI spent most of an afternoon pressure washing, air and rinsing a head and it still didn't get it all out.
I got a bag of this for my next job but the compressor I have doesn't have very much puff. so can only be used in short bursts, it is effective though.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ECOSTRIP-S...item53e3ba3efa
I thought of using crushed walnut shells as well - anyone used that?79 GS1000S
79 GS1000S (another one)
80 GSX750
80 GS550
80 CB650 cafe racer
75 PC50 - the one with OHV and pedals...
75 TS100 - being ridden (suicidally) by my father
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