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    Valve job questions?

    After 25 years of hibernation I have decided to restore my 1981 GS 1100E. After destroying the origional engine I put a motor from a 1082 in it that had zero miles on it. I might have put a thousand miles on it but I doubt it. I am going through the entire motor. I am having a valve job done on it now. Can I use the old valve springs and retainers? Do I need to replace anything like valve seals?

    #2
    Why would you do a "valve job" on an engine with 1000 miles on it? This makes no sense.

    Yes, replace valve stem seals since 30 year old rubber parts are a big risk. Your valve springs and retainers can be reused, particularly on a low mileage engine.
    Ed

    To measure is to know.

    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

    Comment


      #3
      What's a "1082"?

      Maybe you mis-typed and meant "1982"?


      .
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      Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
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      Comment


        #4
        Greetings and Salutations!!

        Hi Mr. Earl Jaguar,

        As long as the valve springs are within the service limit spec, why not reuse? But yes, replace all of the 30 year old rubber parts, i.e. intake boots and O-rings, etc. For more suggestions, hit the links below.

        Let me dump a TON of information on you and share some GS lovin'.

        I just stopped by to welcome you to the forum in my own, special way.

        If there's anything you'd like to know about the Suzuki GS model bikes, and most others actually, you've come to the right place. There's a lot of knowledge and experience here in the community. Come on in and let me say "HOoooowwwDY!"....

        Here is your very own magical, mystical, mythical, mind-expanding "mega-welcome". Please take notice of the "Top 10 Common Issues", "Top 15 Tips For GS Happiness", the Carb Cleanup Series, and the Stator Papers. All of these tasks must be addressed in order to have a safe, reliable machine. This is what NOT to do: Top 10 Newbie Mistakes. Now let me roll out the welcome mat for you...



        Please click here for your mega-welcome, chock full of tips, suggestions, links to vendors, and other information. Then feel free to visit my little BikeCliff website where I've been collecting the wisdom of this generous community. Don't forget, we like pictures! Not you, your bike!

        Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed. I will put you on my prayer list.

        Thank you for your indulgence,

        BassCliff

        Comment


          #5
          Valve Guide O-Rings

          Ed,
          While turning the motor over with the plugs out I dropped an aligator clip down the #3 cylinder and messed up the seat on one of the valves and took a chunk out of the piston! STUPID HURTS!

          Steve,
          The real reason for the restoration is that it is 930 years old! Sorry, fat fingers.

          All,
          After driving out the valve guides can they be re-used with new o-rings? The shop manual says to ream out the guide holed and install oversized guides. Is this necessary???

          Comment


            #6
            Don't, Don't, Don't drive out the valve guides. You do that with an engine with many miles and worn valve guides. You shouldn't need to do that step on such a low mileage engine. You also don't need to replace all the valves or seats, maybe just the damaged one if it can't be ground out.

            Comment


              #7
              IMHO, if the machine shop you are going to take the head to cannot answer these questions for you, I would take it to another shop. I took mine to someone in Ohio, and he not only answered all my questions, but made excellent recommendations at minimal cost to me. He covered everything you asked about and a lot more.

              Oh, and welcome to GSR.

              Comment


                #8
                Yes, it is necessary. Properly, the head is heated then the guide alone is cooled, then drifted out. After that, a minimal amount of metal is removed from the hole with a bit/reamer, perfectly centered over the hole that houses the valve stem.......? and then the new guide is shrunk by cold and drifted into place. Then the valve seats are reground and etc. If you have this done by the wrong machinist a mating disaster is possible.
                I am not sure how you got your valve guides out, but if you aren't certain, I'd find a machinist to advise you. Though I could be wrong, and just beating them out and bashing in new ones may work. If so, let me know please.
                If you love your bike, take it to a machinist with the right equipment and thirty years experience. *S*
                S.

                Comment


                  #9
                  1082 ? isn't that the size of the 1100 motor ? Like said DO NOT DRIVE THE valve guides out !!! You need to remove the valves and replace the valve seals.. If you did remove the guides ? It may be cheaper to find another head, or at least find a good machine shop to see if it is fixable.
                  If it is a terminology problem and you only drove the valves out your ok...

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