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1150 head gasket advice

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    1150 head gasket advice

    I noticed a little oil wetness around the head gasket area, so I suppose I better put in a new one at some point.....how bad of a job is it? It doesn't LOOK too bad but that's where I usually run into trouble. Just wanted to glean some wisdom from y'all so I can go into it smart. Thanks in advance!

    #2
    I would change the base gasket so you will have to hone the cylinders and possibly change the rings.
    Change the valve stem oil seals.
    Check the valve guides and check rocker pads for wear. I'd also have a look at the cams. Any unusual wear won't be hard to spot.
    Cometic sells top end kits that include base gasket, head gasket, valve cover, cam chain gasket.
    Also check the cam chain if it's a high mileage.
    Also make sure it is the head gasket and not valve cover or o-rings on the front two center head bolts.
    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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      #3
      How many miles on the engine?

      If the engine runs well you might want to run a compression check before tearing it down. If the compression is good you can reuse the rings.

      It's strongly advised to change all the seals and gaskets including the valve stem seals.

      OE gaskets are best. I have a brand new OE head gasket and one set of 1150 rings if you are in need.

      Good luck
      Ed

      To measure is to know.

      Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

      Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

      Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

      KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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        #4
        Mileage is a little over 14k. Good idea to change valve seals. How does one check the cam chain? Measure? If the base gasket isnt leaking and compression is good is there any reason to split it?

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          #5
          Its a roll of the dice
          1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
          1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

          Comment


            #6
            I'd replace the head and base gaskets, and the valve stem seals. If compression is good there is no need for rings or cam chain at that mileage.
            Ed

            To measure is to know.

            Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

            Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

            Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

            KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

            Comment


              #7
              Bill, the 1150 heads don't have the orings on the front, center 2 head nuts like the 1100. Ray.

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                #8
                Looks like it should be pretty straightforward, sounds like no weird "watch out for this" or "for gods sake don't do that" kind of scenarios to watch out for. I hope I can get to this before storage, but definitely in the spring. Thanks guys

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                  #9
                  When you take it apart, be sure to mark the chain and sprockets so you don't have to have to worry about getting them back where they were.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by keman View Post
                    When you take it apart, be sure to mark the chain and sprockets so you don't have to have to worry about getting them back where they were.
                    BEFORE you ever take it apart, go get yourself a FACTORY Suzuki shop manual & then you won't need to worry about marking anything when you take it apart. That book will have every spec & picture you need for BOTH taking it apart & re-assembling the top end! Ray.

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