lot of oil from engine breather hose, help!

[chuck hahn]

Go to the USER CP and edit your signature and add a location to you prfile. Maybe someone close by can come over and help you out. These things bare always easier if your right there with the bike.

[BassCliff]

Hi,

The carb issue is not related to the crankcase issue.

There are seals between the bevel gears and crankshaft/transmission case and between the bevel gears and output shaft. I suppose they can fail. If this is the situation, a repair would mean splitting the cases. I have no personal experience with this repair, just looking at the manual and parts fiches for you. If you like tinkering you could tear down your engine. If not, you can probably pick up a used engine and put it in the frame.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[keman]

Your pic looks like the bottle cap is attached to the cam chain tension stud. Or is it on the tube from the case vent in the pic that is posted earlier in the thread by Basscliff?

[matt1100]

the cap is on the case vent tube, its just bent up out of its hole.

I assume that the crankcase got over pressurized. Not sure what causes this. That blew seals: starter o-ring; oil pressure sensor; tac drive; and worst of all the seal between the engine and gear oil.

Guys please offer some suggestions here...definately felling a little down about this one

[sedelen]

If the crankcase got over pressurized, then your breather isn't venting.
Now I'm not talking about the "gearcase" vent. I'm talking about the "crankcase" breather for your regular engine oil. That breather is on top of the valve cover and it runs to your air box, a black tube. If that is clogged and not venting, pressure will build up in your crankcase, and quite possibly blow your seals, I would think if you remove your tank and disconnect the breather hose at the air box, you should be able to blow air through it (if your oil filler cap is removed) to see if it is clogged.

[matt1100]

Breather is clear, but thanks for the info

Been pondering it and if the seal around the drive shaft is compromised, then its time for a rebuild! First time into a motor like this so any fair warnings would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks guys

[1948man]

This is not specific info but I'll offer it any way. I had a 1986 Suzuki Cavalcade (now sold) and the Cavalcades had this problem fairly often. Mine was fine but many 'Cades developed a leak past the gasket/seal that separated the engine oil from the secondary oil area. The symptoms were exactly as you have experienced. Eventually the secondary reservoir got over full. I don't know all the details but I do remember that, on that engine, the seal/gasket could be replaced without splitting the cases. I'll see if I can find a leak to some info but it may well not apply to the GS line.

[1948man]

There is a downloadable manual for an 1100G at the Bikecliff site. On page 4-10 there is a description of removing and reinstalling the secondary from the engine. It seems that if you got it off, you would be able to install an effective seal in order to get it back on. The description starts by saying remove the engine from the frame. On the 'Cades, I think they found a workaround for that. Maybe like remove the rear axle and slide the final gear and drive-shaft back to create some wiggle room. Not sure if any of this will work but maybe someone else knows.

[matt1100]

Thanks for the reply 1948! However, and I could be mistaken, but I believe that the supect seal is located in the upper right hand corner of the image on page 4-18 of that manual. Where the shaft that drives the other half of the gear assembly enters secondary area...maybe

[1948man]

Yeah, I was just saying 4-10 to get to the section. I didn't read all the way through but on 4-17 they seem to talk about re attaching the secondary gear housing and what seals to replace. I'm still not clear if that will help you.