Clutch / Transmission issue

[Krunk_Kracker]

I took both side cases off my bike just to give it a look over as I had never been in there before. The stator was loose and needed tigghtening for one. I pulled the clutch packs out to give them a look over and all looked good. I replaced the original clutch springs with these crazy stiff ones from Z1 and put it all back together.

Now, the shifter will not go back to it's neutral position when I move it, and when I put it into gear, even with the clutch pulled, it jumps into gear and stalls.

The clutch lever has a great feel, very stiff and lots of resistance and goes back when I release it.

Any thoughts? I am baffled.

[Big T]

Your springs are too stiff and you are not achieveing full release

Go back in and take out 3 of the springs and replace with the original springs

Be sure the clutch rack goes back on in the correct position

[Krunk_Kracker]

Damn it all....I threw out the OEM springs....

What about the shifter having no return on it?

[chef1366]

There is a return spring behind the clutch basket. You may be able to see it just by removing the clutch cover.

[Big T]

Damn it all....I threw out the OEM springs....

What about the shifter having no return on it?

Just order 3 OEM ones from your local dealer

When you take the clutch cover off again, check the alignment and spring on the shifter gears behind the clutch.

[Suzuki_Don]

Better still replace the current stiff springs with 6 OEM springs. You didn't mention you had trouble with clutch slip so six new factory springs will be a perfect solution. I had clutch slip on my 550 clutch with a 650 top end (similar to yours) and I replaced the tired springs with new Suzuki ones and I haven't had a scrap of trouble since. So with a 650 clutch I don't see that you would have any trouble either and you will have a nice soft, smooth release on the handle bar as well.

[tkent02]

Better still replace the current stiff springs with 6 OEM springs. You didn't mention you had trouble with clutch slip so six new factory springs will be a perfect solution. I had clutch slip on my 550 clutch with a 650 top end (similar to yours) and I replaced the tired springs with new Suzuki ones and I haven't had a scrap of trouble since. So with a 650 clutch I don't see that you would have any trouble either and you will have a nice soft, smooth release on the handle bar as well.

+1, bigger springs suck unless you are drag racing.

[Krunk_Kracker]

Better still replace the current stiff springs with 6 OEM springs. You didn't mention you had trouble with clutch slip so six new factory springs will be a perfect solution. I had clutch slip on my 550 clutch with a 650 top end (similar to yours) and I replaced the tired springs with new Suzuki ones and I haven't had a scrap of trouble since. So with a 650 clutch I don't see that you would have any trouble either and you will have a nice soft, smooth release on the handle bar as well.

I had terrible slipping in 3rd gear. Couldn't roll hard in third or it would slip like crazy.

Just order 3 OEM ones from your local dealer

When you take the clutch cover off again, check the alignment and spring on the shifter gears behind the clutch.

I'll do that, thank you!

[Suzuki_Don]

[QUOTE=Krunk_Kracker;1547035]I had terrible slipping in 3rd gear. Couldn't roll hard in third or it would slip like crazy.


If that's the case then go for a new set of EBC fiber plates and a full set of new OEM springs and all will be OK. If after you have replaced these and still have further trouble get back to us and we'll tell you what else needs to be done to get a nice smooth clutch action that does not slip.

I bought a set of new EBC clutch plates off Ebay and I had trouble in the lower three gears with it not wanting to change properly and the gears feeling very notchy. Also I could not find neutral unless I switched the motor off. I pulled the plates one more time and modified them some and now I have a perfect clutch action, light, smooth, and no clutch slip. And neutral can be found whether moving or not.

[Normk]

The clutch should release completely regardless of how heavy the apply springs might be because the release mechanism must still travel the same distance in order for the handle bar lever to complete its stroke. That said, it is possible that the clutch cover (the moveable/outboard friction plate) is flexing under the force.

I have seen cables which stretched and other wierd problems which affected the clutch mechanism's abiltity to achieve enough clearance between friction and steel plates so that the clutch is able to competely release. While, IMO, it is most likely that the cause is the excessively heavy clutch apply springs causing flexing within the clutch or linkage as suggested, it would be well to consider other possible causes which could be evident to inspection while the clutch is opened up.

Is the clutch basket or clutch cover spline burred/grooved, or otherwise damaged so that one or more plates are failing to slide and so being dragged against adjacent plates?
Burrs/grooves often affect the ability to release at higher RPM but can also cause low RPM issues, especially after the clutch has just been apart.

Is the cover plate cracked and so able to flex assymetrically under spring pressure? Any chance that you have a spacer washer under one spring as this might cause assymetrical spring force. It requires little flexing or twisting of components to cause one of these clutches to drag.

Perhaps the high spring force is requiring so much release force that the linkage is flexing, deforming but I'd be looking for other causes, especially as you have not mentioned that the effort required to release the clutch is excessive. Not arguing with the previous suggestions as they are most likely to be relating to the condition but there is no sense in ordering new springs and pulling it down again afterwards to address another cause which was missed.

Please keep us posted as this is an interesting problem.

[chuck hahn]

Just cuz it was slipping doesnt make the springs culpable. You need to use a caliper or micrometer and check the thickness of the plates and fibers and see if they are within specs. Could have been that they were just worn down, but still within spec, and all you really needed to do was adjust the cable a bit. You should have about 1/4 to 3/8 inch freeplay in the lever if all is adjusted right. No freeplay means that theres also slop in the clutch keeping it from fully locking up...follow me?? I should clarify that by freeplay, I mean at the end of the lever..it should move a bit before you feel resistance on the lever. Another way to check is look at the place where the lever and mount come together. As you pull the lever a little there will be some seperation from the lever and mount where they mesh together.. maybe 1/8 inch.